Jeepnford
Gold Member
Very cool. I need to get mine finished.
truck plow to tractor plow
- Thread starter Builder
- Start date
I think I'm going to do mine this way. Now I need to find a skid steer mount plate cheap.
Seems like there's meyers, western, etc plows all over the place for 1/2 to 1/3 the price of a fully dedicated tractor plow.
Seems like there's meyers, western, etc plows all over the place for 1/2 to 1/3 the price of a fully dedicated tractor plow.
radman1
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2006
- Messages
- 3,017
- Location
- midwest
- Tractor
- JD 4520, Toolcat 5610, Bobcat S300, Case-IH 125 Pro, Case-IH 245, IH 1086, IH 806
I bought an old 7' Meyer plow for $75 at an aution. Got 2 cylinders off E-bay for $25. I already had hydraulics to the front of my tractor FEL (JD3720) to run the cylinders. I already had a skid steer to 3 pt adapter plate because I use it for other attachments. The bottom picture in the link is the one I have. Bought it off e-bay for $200 3 years ago. mountingplates
Then I just bolted a simple Cat I drawbar to the meyer plow peice that would normally attach to the truck.DRAWBAR CAT 2 - Agri Supply (Cat I, not category II as in the picture - could not find cat I picture
)
I used the existing plow chain to connect the plow to the 3 pt adapter. I like the chain because the plow will float over the ground contour and a rigid attachment used on most skid steers won't have that ability. In heavy snow the plow can push the front of the tractor around, especially if at an angle.
I havn't tried using the plow on my Toolcat which has more weight and should do a better job.
Then I just bolted a simple Cat I drawbar to the meyer plow peice that would normally attach to the truck.DRAWBAR CAT 2 - Agri Supply (Cat I, not category II as in the picture - could not find cat I picture
)I used the existing plow chain to connect the plow to the 3 pt adapter. I like the chain because the plow will float over the ground contour and a rigid attachment used on most skid steers won't have that ability. In heavy snow the plow can push the front of the tractor around, especially if at an angle.
I havn't tried using the plow on my Toolcat which has more weight and should do a better job.
I bought an old 7' Meyer plow for $75 at an aution. Got 2 cylinders off E-bay for $25. I already had hydraulics to the front of my tractor FEL (JD3720) to run the cylinders. I already had a skid steer to 3 pt adapter plate because I use it for other attachments. The bottom picture in the link is the one I have. Bought it off e-bay for $200 3 years ago. mountingplates
Then I just bolted a simple Cat I drawbar to the meyer plow peice that would normally attach to the truck.DRAWBAR CAT 2 - Agri Supply (Cat I, not category II as in the picture - could not find cat I picture
I used the existing plow chain to connect the plow to the 3 pt adapter. I like the chain because the plow will float over the ground contour and a rigid attachment used on most skid steers won't have that ability. In heavy snow the plow can push the front of the tractor around, especially if at an angle.
I havn't tried using the plow on my Toolcat which has more weight and should do a better job.
Sounds cool. Can you toss up some pictures of your plow set up?
zimcocomp
Member
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2008
- Messages
- 44
- Location
- West Newfield, Southern Maine
- Tractor
- Kubota L2550 4wd, & Bolens QT 16, w/ Diy FEL
I use an old 7.5' Myers plow rig once used on a Ford pickup. I wanted to have full lift and curl capabilities so I welded up a frame to mount to the tractor just as the bucket did.
I did this many years ago and have been very happy with it. I can pile snow up 6 feet or more and after putting a little additional weight on the rear no amount of snow has stopped it. If you notice in the picture I kept all the hydraulics from the Myers installation but I am using the pump just for the power angle of the blade. I still use the original chain which allows full float over the surface. One advatage of keeping the curl capability is you can tilt the blade forward to scrape a paved driveway and you can tilt it back onto the blade feet on dirt so you plow snow, not dirt. I am starting to modify the power angle to use the bucket control for power angle. My only problem is running the Myers pump for power angle is more of a load than the small alternator on Kubota can handle so this will resolve that problem.
A little engenuity far outways a lot of expense.
I did this many years ago and have been very happy with it. I can pile snow up 6 feet or more and after putting a little additional weight on the rear no amount of snow has stopped it. If you notice in the picture I kept all the hydraulics from the Myers installation but I am using the pump just for the power angle of the blade. I still use the original chain which allows full float over the surface. One advatage of keeping the curl capability is you can tilt the blade forward to scrape a paved driveway and you can tilt it back onto the blade feet on dirt so you plow snow, not dirt. I am starting to modify the power angle to use the bucket control for power angle. My only problem is running the Myers pump for power angle is more of a load than the small alternator on Kubota can handle so this will resolve that problem.
A little engenuity far outways a lot of expense.
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radman1
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2006
- Messages
- 3,017
- Location
- midwest
- Tractor
- JD 4520, Toolcat 5610, Bobcat S300, Case-IH 125 Pro, Case-IH 245, IH 1086, IH 806
Here are a few pics. The skid steer to 3 pt adapter in this picture is a Woods with a HF quick hitch. (Earlier I attached a link to Attachment International for another adapter that I have also used.)The HF quick hitch is not necessary but I had it on and just left it in place. In the spring it is very easy to remove the adapter from the blade in a few seconds. The blade sits about 30" ahead of the skid steer plate.
The drawbar is bolted to the snowplow frame. I used a 2x2" piece of iron between the drawbar and frame. This allowed the drawbar to clear the cylinders and allows the back of the snowplow frame to sit under the adapter. I could have cut the frame off the back of the snowplow frame but it wasn't it the way so I left it in place. I could have probably mounted the snowplow closer to the adapter and yet maintained the angle of the blade but thought it was OK.
The drawbar is bolted to the snowplow frame. I used a 2x2" piece of iron between the drawbar and frame. This allowed the drawbar to clear the cylinders and allows the back of the snowplow frame to sit under the adapter. I could have cut the frame off the back of the snowplow frame but it wasn't it the way so I left it in place. I could have probably mounted the snowplow closer to the adapter and yet maintained the angle of the blade but thought it was OK.
radman1
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2006
- Messages
- 3,017
- Location
- midwest
- Tractor
- JD 4520, Toolcat 5610, Bobcat S300, Case-IH 125 Pro, Case-IH 245, IH 1086, IH 806
Builder
The easiest way to make the skid steer to 3 pt adapter, is buy a skid steer mounting plate and weld it to an inexpensive HF quick hitch. Probably cost $175-250 total.
The easiest way to make the skid steer to 3 pt adapter, is buy a skid steer mounting plate and weld it to an inexpensive HF quick hitch. Probably cost $175-250 total.
JB4310
Super Member
Builder, you can find old truck plow blades for free sometimes, I got mine for a favor. When you ask about it being a pleasure to use, I can't answer that myself but most people who have them seem to be satisfied. I personally have some reservations especially for heavy snow, but they are fast for moderate depths (see 4shorts video)
Radman, looks like we have the same thoughts, Your use of the draw bar simplifies the concept to say the least. anyone can convert a truck plow to 3pt with a couple of bolts. I could of put the mounting bar I used further forward on the plows A-frame like you did and I'm sure it would be better for front loader use, but the way I'm using it on the 3pt I think it's ok/better.
I agree with you about using chain for float ability, mine works perfectly on the rear, haven't tried it on the front yet, just gonna bolt the orig undercarriage mount to my fork frame if I do, my remotes are on the back but I'll run some hoses to the loader.
Ever thought of using yours on the back?
Radman, looks like we have the same thoughts, Your use of the draw bar simplifies the concept to say the least. anyone can convert a truck plow to 3pt with a couple of bolts. I could of put the mounting bar I used further forward on the plows A-frame like you did and I'm sure it would be better for front loader use, but the way I'm using it on the 3pt I think it's ok/better.
I agree with you about using chain for float ability, mine works perfectly on the rear, haven't tried it on the front yet, just gonna bolt the orig undercarriage mount to my fork frame if I do, my remotes are on the back but I'll run some hoses to the loader.
Ever thought of using yours on the back?
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zimcocomp
Member
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2008
- Messages
- 44
- Location
- West Newfield, Southern Maine
- Tractor
- Kubota L2550 4wd, & Bolens QT 16, w/ Diy FEL
My only concern about enjoying plowing was the cab being open to the elements. The way I resloved this is to make a machine that can handle the snow after it's all done snowing. Over the years I've modified a few things just to make it more enjoyable.
Having the length of blade mount that I have is not equivalent to a full bucket of sand so I think it's fine. If I had to do it all over and had plenty of cash I would only modify my hydraulics to include power angle from the loaders controls. This is what I am working on now between snow storms.
Having the length of blade mount that I have is not equivalent to a full bucket of sand so I think it's fine. If I had to do it all over and had plenty of cash I would only modify my hydraulics to include power angle from the loaders controls. This is what I am working on now between snow storms.