TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures

[MD83Z]

#1 I would think that no oil would burn the pump and motor.....just a guess.
#2 inspect the pump and motor block surfaces for scoring....opposite end from spring loaded pistons.,...oil leaks past mating surface if too much scoring....
also could look at gear teeth ....Last...make sure flat spot on small gear shaft is positioned into case correctly on assembly.
#3 not sure "IDS"
#4 the adjuster allows for adjusting "creep"....if mower moves forward or reverse when supposed to be stopped.

 

[Neo]

#1 I would think that no oil would burn the pump and motor.....just a guess.
#2 inspect the pump and motor block surfaces for scoring....opposite end from spring loaded pistons.,...oil leaks past mating surface if too much scoring....
also could look at gear teeth ....Last...make sure flat spot on small gear shaft is positioned into case correctly on assembly.
#3 not sure "IDS"
#4 the adjuster allows for adjusting "creep"....if mower moves forward or reverse when supposed to be stopped.

Thanks for that MD83Z:thumbsup:

 

[MD83Z]

Well,I didn't know anything about these "squash block" transmissions, until I read this site 5 times and watched the video a few times.....Never saw the word squash plate ever used in the 43 pages of this thread but whatever....

 

[MD83Z]

Sorry, I meant to say wobble plate.....At least thats what my dad called it....

 

[sjsmith2262]

joebob

How about a less cryptic description of what needs to be machined and what is causing the problem. I'm not a schooled mechanic and can't quite understand what you are saying. Your descriptions sound impressive but can you put it in 5th grade language.

Thanks,
Chris

Chris / all,
JoeBob, please correct me if I'm wrong and/or you disagree with any of this. I just successfully rebuilt my TT K62 using your "machining method", instead of having the parts 'machined', I carefully did the following:
1. I sanded the motor, pump and case assembly
2. I used a small piece of oak (any extremely flat surface) and used 3M sticky back sand paper (320 grit, 400 grit and finished with 600-grit)
3. each side/piece took me about 15-20 minutes of careful sanding in a circular motion

sorry in advance, I know these aren't great pictures, however... you should be able to understand the point.

CENTER CASE BEFORE: note the scoring or rings. (BAD)



CENTER CASE AFTER:



CENTER CASE new vs old: (I purchased a new center case assembly, but decided to try sanding my original center case assembly first - worked like a champ)



Additionally, I also carefully sanded both surfaces of the matting pieces (the revolver pistol chamber looking thing). Unfortunately I forgot to take any pictures.


FWIW / misc info:
1. used Castrol Syntec 5w-50 (~$28.50 about $9.50 per quart)
2. replaced both filters ($42.58 for both)
3. used Permatex - Ultra Black Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone Gasket Maker (about $9.50)
4. TOTAL COST: $80.58

 

[Neo]

That's great information sjsmith....Thanks for sharing that with us.

All the best.
Neo

 

[joebob]

That was a great ides, sj. I could have done that, & saved the &25 machining fee.It seems that before, lots of guys were still spending a pile of C notes on all the unnessasary parts, maybee it's starting to finally sink in. I just used 10w30 oil in mine. Good job!
Cheers
Joebob

 

[joebob]

That was a great ides, sj. I could have done that, & saved the &25 machining fee.It seems that before, lots of guys were still spending a pile of C notes on all the unnessasary parts, maybee it's starting to finally sink in. I just used 10w30 oil in mine. Good job!
Cheers
Joebob

 

[Neo]

Just a thought.... Is that gowning moaning sound caused by the uneven surface of the Centre Case??

 

[sjsmith2262]

Neo,
Regarding "moaning / uneven surfaces", to be perfectly honest w/ you, I'm a computer geek by trade. After having read through this entire post a couple of times, JoeBob's idea of resurfacing the wear points made sense to me. My problem was I don't know any machinist. So I thought that I'd try carefully sanding the worn areas.

END RESULT:
Without question I haven't had this much power with my Scotts S2048, TT 62 in years! how long this repair will last I don't know, but I have 1,150 hours on her already. So if I get a couple more years out of her, that would be awesome. (I'm actively looking for a JD 455 AWS & would love to get a hold of one that's in need of repair...)

additional reference material, punchyoureyehole created a couple of GREAT YouTube video's that I highly recommend anyone considering doing this repair to watch.

VIDEO:
PART 1-of-2
Part 1 - K46 hydrostatic drive Removal - YouTube

Part 2-of-2
Part 2 - K46 Rebuild - YouTube


FWIW - *if* I were to do this repair again, or something similar, I would have put a couple drops of oil on the wear point surfaces *before* putting everything back together. My rational is:

1. While assembling everything and shortly there after, I know those surfaces were twisted & moved (possibly cause new 'rings' to be created)

2. After filling the transaxle up with oil, I don't think oil was actually on those critical surfaces when she was first started up.

3. It certainly wouldn't hurt anything