Comparison Tym vs Branson vs ?

[chim]

................. What is the smallest tractor you can get that has a cab? I keep getting told that having a cab will protect me from bees if I am working at the ranch (they get pretty bad out there) as well as allow me to use it in all sorts of weather ......................Russ

I'm not well versed on all the offerings of the different manufacturers. I can tell you that I test drove a smaller Kubota (B3030 I think) with a cab with air. It felt a little small inside. I looked at a bunch of different tractors when I bought this last one. One or two that offered cabs didn't have A/C available, which may make them unacceptable for your area. The one place I shopped had Mahindra and TYM, and the smaller cabbed tractor of one of those brands lacked A/C. There's another off-brand red tractor dealer that came and went near here and I can't recall the brand. Pretty sure they were also heat only.

 

[Fossil Farm]

A good tractor can easily work hard for 40 or 50 years. Do not go cheap just to save a few bucks and not be satisfied with your purchase or have it break down after a few years. Our Massey 35 was purchased in 1961 or 1962 and was still working fine when I sold it a few years ago (Sold most of the farm, so didn't use it much). If you are not a good mechanic, a good dealer is especially important. A backhoe is nice, but one can be rented cheaper if it is not going to be used weekly or monthly in most cases. I am sure you will be using it on both properties. Not sure if you will have to trailer it or not. Since you have time, see or talk to neighbors about what the have and how their dealer treats them. Good luck.

 

[Texasmark]

The two Korean tractor brands with expanding market share in the U.S.A. are Kioti and LS. Kioti and LS make all their own stuff. Branson and TYM are South/Central regional brands plus a few in California. If you are a pioneer type person willing to accept above average parts and resale risk, in exchange for a lower price, Branson and TYM are fine.


In terms of sizing a new tractor for two acres:

Almost all 16-hp to 35-hp tractors sold in the USA are equipped with a FEL (Loader), HST transmission, 4-WD and Industrial (R4) tires; all "options" even though pretty much standard packages that will be on tractors you look at.

Tractors sold with 25-hp or smaller engines (in the USA) have relatively simple emissions controls referred to as Tier III emission controls.

Tractors sold with >25-hp engines require more complex, more costly EPA mandated emissions controls referred to as Tier IV emission controls. This is ALL brands of tractors. Tier IV is "new" in the last two years.

I think you will be fine with a 25-hp tractor. If you want something with more horsepower you may as well go to 35-hp because the factory addition Tier IV emission controls is costly, and not value efficient until you get to 35-hp. I believe new tractor sales in the 26-hp to 30-hp segment are thin at present.

All Kubota sub-compact BX models are <25-hp, so are Tier III

Slightly larger Kubota 'B' models fall on both side of the 25-hp divide.

One larger, heavier Kubota model, the L2501, a compact, rather than subcompact model, has a 25-hp engine and, therefore, is Tier III.


I recommend a Kubota B2320 (Tier III) or a Kubota L2501 (Tier III)

Kubota BX tractors are great lawn/turf mowing machines. Normally they use a Mid-Mount Mower (MMM) which is under the body of the tractor and comes in 54" and 60" widths. Great mowers but a little small for other tasks.

Some tractor owners prefer to mow turf with a 3-Point Hitch mounted Finish Mower towed behind the tractor. This would be my choice.

Kubota B2320 is a tad larger than a BX, which makes it easier to mount implements on the Three Point Hitch. A B2320 is about the same weight as similarly equipped BX.

L2501 is larger yet, and about 1,200 pounds heavier than the B2320. I think you need a Kubota L2501.

For dealing with shrubs, small trees and light grading, I recommend a $330 Ratchet Rake bucket attachment. These are sold by the T-B-N store, which has more information. Delivery by convenient FedEx. (STORE button at top of this page.)

Ratchet Rake on YOUTUBE: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=RATCHET+RAKE

Kubota L2501 Web Page: Compact Tractors | L2501 | Kubota Tractor Corporation



Tractors have neither VINs nor titles. Tractors are prime targets for thieves. Build your tractor storage first or bring in a CONNEX container to lock up your tractor within, then build your house. Otherwise your new tractor may go to Mexico in short order. Stolen tractors are very, very, seldom recovered.


I have owned one John Deere tractor and two Kubota tractors, never a Korean tractor. I have shopped the Kioti and LS brands and been favorably impressed.

I don't have the exacts in front of me....but I can get them if necessary, but you did not give Branson credit where credit is due! Your facts are not factual!

Mark

 

[oldpilgrim]

Tractors have neither VINs nor titles.

Every tractor I've had, old and new have VINS. They might be called serial numbers but they're the same. It's the only real way you can tell what year they are made.

 

[jeff9366]

VINS are in a federal data base which can be easily accessed by law enforcement and DMV. Each time a vehicle is titled, the VIN is checked to be sure current seller matches last registered owner.

Serial numbers are not.

 

[oldpilgrim]

Not to pick nits here but.....you may not be able to trace a number thru the police, but your dealer will have a record and so should the owner. The number which is on the machine is traceable to an extent. It is a vehicle identifier. It helps identify the machine for repairs, manuf date, and ownership.

It is on a Vehicle
It is an Identifier
It is a Number

VIN

They all have one.

 

[guardrail22]

I believe the smallest factory cab tractor is the Kubota B series. The 2650 is Tier 3.

 

[AxleHub]

Hi guys, have not posted in a while.

We have been busy.. heh.. bought 2 acres and are planning to build a house. Now, we also own 330 acres of hunting land. Here is what I am curious about:

1 - I really do not need a high end tractor. Let's be honest, so long as I do not say this to my wife.. lol..., I WANT a high end.. but I can get by with a smaller one.

2 - I need to be able to mow, but getting just a mower, to me, would be a waste.

Russ

Greetings Russ,

I've read your posts on this thread plus many responses to it . . . and there is a remarkable quantity of errors or omissions in data needed.

Lets start with your posts. To get good opinions . . you need to clarify information. Having product "packages" for a car/truck is much different than for a tractor. On a car or truck a package is a combination of things that is built and installed together. But what you are refering to is a tractor and a bunch of addon implements. So a tractor and front end loader, 3 pt hitch and backhoe may be a package but an auger or bush hog or ??? are simply implements thrown into the quote. Keep it simple . . . by identifying the tractor characteristics you desire first.

Next . . . in your search for brands and sizes . . I recommend NOT to consider distance to dealer as a priority. Dealers go out of business, switch brands or sell out all the time. If a dealer is 100 miles away or 3 miles away . . focus on finding GOOD dealers not close ones . . and backup ones too. Distance is somethong you can deal with . . quality and reliability is not.

Next . . if you post an open sizing option . . . you don't do yourself any favors because to tractor owners they see "size" in very different viewpoints . . and you get flooded with huge size difference opinions. As an example . . 2 acres of grass and 330 acres of hunting land are huge gaps depending on terrain variables and types of of plans you have.

Next . . help readers by targetting your questions if you can. Will your lawn be flat or hills and slopes. Will you have any tricky washes or rock outcroppings or culvert issues? Will your driveway be gravel or concrete or blacktop. Will you have snow issues or not. All these things determine size of tractor benefits. How about ground clearance needs . . 2 acres of lawn isn't an issue but 330 acres of hunting land to many readers indicates size variances of tractor.

My point is . . . you desire input which is good . . But 100 responses with 6 sizes of tractors is not helping you even though readers are trying.

Continued

 

[AxleHub]

Greetings Russ,

I've read your posts on this thread plus many responses to it . . . and there is a remarkable quantity of errors or omissions in data needed.

Lets start with your posts. To get good opinions . . you need to clarify information. Having product "packages" for a car/truck is much different than for a tractor. On a car or truck a package is a combination of things that is built and installed together. But what you are refering to is a tractor and a bunch of addon implements. So a tractor and front end loader, 3 pt hitch and backhoe may be a package but an auger or bush hog or ??? are simply implements thrown into the quote. Keep it simple . . . by identifying the tractor characteristics you desire first.

Now to the other side of the story. Your getting some errors, omissions, or incorrect information and you need to recognize or know them as errors.

1. You mention TYM tractors and some responded. Yet neither you or them mentioned that Cabelas chain also sells TYM tractors under their own name and also does the service and warranty work work on the Cabels/TYM tractors. In other words TYM product has expanded because Cabelas is a growing national chain. Also Cabelas offers some 4 or 5 sizes (frame sizes). And if parts are needed . . not only do they do local full service and warranty work at each location . . but they can also ship parts thru their warehouse sustems.

2. I'm stunned by some info you got on Tier IV engines. A Kubota bx2670 is a 26 hp scut yet it is a tier lll engine. Thats because the engine has not changed since the rules went into 2015. But all diesel tractor engines will become tier iv engines. In fact right now some of the best known tractor brands are tier iv engines in the 25.999 hp and smaller . . Yanmar, Massey, Mahindra etc... And in larger engines . . Yes . . Tier iv makes some difference in maintenance costs . . But the 25.9999 hp and below is just engineered a little better and cleans the diesel exhaust a little better. No performance loss or "canister" or egr vslves needed.

3. Cabs. On my Massey GC1715 I can add a cab . . Either fiberglass or cloth from numerous manufacturing vendors . . Virtually every modern tractor has that option thru vendors and the cheaper ones start at less than 1,000. This is in addition to brand manufacturer options which are often 3rd arty anyway.

4. Air conditioning. Well maybe you don't need it if you have "forward engine cooling". I don't know about the compact tractors but in just sub compact tractors some of the best and biggest names have the radiator and cooling fan at the back of the engine instead of the front . . so hot air goes out the front not on the driver . . plus it keeps the engine comparyment (and driver) much cleaner too. Kubota bx models all have it. Yanmar sc2400s have it, massey gc2300 gc2400 gc1700s all have it and maybe other brands and sizes too . . this isn't a complete list.

5. You are building a house. I was too over several years. I wish I had bought my tractor then because there were many things I could have used it for that I either had to rent or have someone do it for me or wheelborrow or cart or trailer.

6. No one suggested you do more homework. Everyone who responds is already an owner so they are iffeing opinions. Nobody reminded you that just in kubota bx there are 4 models and then in small b models there are 2 or 3 more . . when you referred to a kubota as a lawnmower with options but it seemed a bit small. Did you see a bx1870-1 or a bx2670-1 or a b2601 or ??? Point is they should have stopped you from making an assumption on a sighting of one unknown model.

7. Food plots. A rear cultivator can be used with most all scut and cut units. Unless you have hardpan surfaces or try to develop plots in heavy root or rock areas . . Any size can do it depending on ground clearance. Also you can rent implements too.


Russ . . I'm not a know-it-all. I've been thru much of what you are doing. I spent years clarifying because I COULD NOT AFFORD to make a mistake. I recognized that in our area a good scut used was almost the same as a new one . . and my terrain demanded i have great traction on grass lawn slopes and hills and snowy situations. Many of these readers routinely buy another tractor because they can afford to or becsuse they owned tractors for decades. I had to get it right the 1st time because stretching out payments further and further to get whatever was not my desire. And cost WAS an issue I readily and frequently admitted.

If you buy new . . virtually every brand has great financing options. Used units are easily financed at credit unions etc. With great rates. Go see dealers and look and test drive. I contacted more than a dozen dealers before I found one I liked (dealer). In addition I found a couple other really good dealers with different brands I really liked. There were HUGE differences in dealer/sales knowledge of their product.

My point in all this is simple. . . new or used . . listen to all input . . but seek knowledge and double check everything unless you have lots of money. A tractor is a great thing but none of them do all your wishes . . hire some things done . . and do some yourself.

Good luck and work hard on it . . . you'll be glad you did . . and so will the wife.

 

[AxleHub]

Every tractor I've had, old and new have VINS. They might be called serial numbers but they're the same. It's the only real way you can tell what year they are made.

You are correct for many reasons. Every tractor has a unique number. Its how invoicing is done. Its how warranties re recognized. Its how recalls are handled. Inthe U.S. it is required and to my knowledge every implement has one too . . . My fel . . My mower deck . . My 3pt sprayer . . . My tractor. My insurance coverage is based on those numbers too as is my financing.