Use of draft control with a box scraper.

[4x4sche]

I use my box scraper to level my driveway. When the front wheels go up over a bump, the scraper digs in. When they go down a dip, the scraper drops a load of gravel.The more I drive up and down the more dips I add to my driveway. Constantly moving the three point height control is very difficult (and tedious).

If I added a gauge wheel fixed on an arm off the back of the scraper (say at least 6 feet behind the scraper), and added draft control to my tractor, wouldn't this raise the scraper when the tractor front wheels go up, and lower it when they go down. I think this would automatically smooth out the lumps. If I got the length of the arm and the draft settings right, it would make the entire rig equivalent to a mid-blade grader. The equivalent wheelbase would be equal to the distance between the front wheels of the tractor and the gauge wheel.

The effect of the draft control (in this case) would be to try and keep the blade a fixed height above the imaginary line between the front wheels and the gauge wheel.

Anyone tried this? I can't believe that this hasn't already been thought of, any feedback before I go and do this?

John

 

[KennyV]

Hello John…
Your idea for the gauge wheels MIGHT help, but not necessarily. You are then still able to scalp becausd your top link is rigid. Set your top link so your BB is less aggressive. May help.

Don’t know the size of your tractor? (fill out your bio). You can do what you are describing (sort of) with a speed mover.

Draft dose not work the way you are trying to use it. It is not a positioning ‘leveling’ cmntrol. Save your money unless ynu are going to tse your tractor for plowing you will probably not have a use for draft.
Ure that money for a pull type grader. That could be your best all around smoothing attachment for a tractor. KenlyV.

 

[HomeBrew2]

In addition to what Kenny said: You can use chains hung from the tractor down to the lower arms, to limit the downward travel of the box. Try setting it up on concrete with the chains set so the cutting edge hangs an inch (or one link) below the leveled tractor. Also zig zag when you drive may help. Both help me.
Cheers!

 

[Soundguy]

Draft control willl let the tractor sense and adjust a constant pull.. like fro a plow.. I don't think it will do much for you here.... I agree witht he other poster.. change the angle of the BB to limit it's cut.. also drag a piece of rolle dup chain link fence behind you.. or a railroad tie.. 4x4.. etc.. chain it and drag it right behind the box blade..

Soundguy

 

[4x4sche]

Thanks for the comments. I understand the suggestions.

I think that the reason this is a problem is that the scraper is attached at the end of the lift arms and they go up and down as the tractor goes over bumps.

I still think that the draft control would raise and lower the lift arms at the correct time. I assume that the L5030 draft control senses the force on the top link.

Draft control would try and keep a constant compression force on the top link. If the front wheels go down a dip, the toplink force would reduce and the draft control would lower the arms. If the front wheels went up a bump, the toplink force would increase and the draft control would raise the arms. This motion of the arms would raise and lower the scraper to eliminate the incorrect height change as the tractor rotates about the rear wheels.

The pulling force of the tractor does not affect the toplink because the guage roller won't allow this. But the toplink will see a force if the box and tractor are out of line due to a dip or bump.

A diagram would help. I will try and draw one up.

Just for my information, how does the draft control sense the force on an L5030? Also do the controls have a "mix" feature, or is it just a choice of position or draft.


Thanks again for responding.

John

 

[Soundguy]

John.. I think what we are getting at .. is not a question of how draft control works.. but of sensitivity. Draft was for things like.. plowing... Dragging a few inches of gravel here and there to fill holes or shave high spots may not be enough draft for the controls to sense.. I.e. If an inch or two of gravel is shaved off.. that may not be enough pressure ont he toplink to activate the draft and lift the blade in the event of a short dip.. or might not do it fast enough.

I'm not saying it won't work... but Good luck....

If your tractor has an adjustable or multi hole rocker.. Like the old fords did... I'd choose the one with the most mechanical advantage.. I.e. the hole farthest away from the toplink pivot, and then test out with the lightest draft setting the machine has.

Soundguy

 

[greg_g]

As was mentioned by another respondent, I think you've got draft control confused with position control. But contrary to the other posters, I use draft control regularly with both my box blade and my landscape rake. It prevents both from digging too deep, and minimizes the chance of the tractor being bogged down by the implement. When the down force generated by the digging implement exceeds the sensitivity setting of the draft control lever, the hydraulics automatically lift the implement back to the level preset on the position control

//greg//

 

[Soundguy]

Yes.. boxing in dirt.. that should work fine.. but dragging an ich or two of gravel to knock tops off and fill voids may be tool ittle draft... unless he's got some real washouts and big-truck ruts, and is pulling half full box of gravel or better.. etc..

Soundguy

 

[4x4sche]

Thanks guys, today I went to a local sod farm and looked at an Eversman Artsway land plane. It has a mechanical method of leveling based on a floating hitch. They reference a US patent. I looked this up and also found US patent 3090141 which uses the draft sensing to do exactly what I was aiming for. I may well build something based this. I will let you know how it works. (you can find the patent at www.uspto.gov

 

[have_blue]

Don't know much about draft or position control, but I know exactly what you're talking about on the box blade. All they're good for is moving dirt around. I've never had any luck on leveling roads or trails. If you're not careful, you can try to build up a road on a perfectly smooth area, and end up with whoop-de-doo's. Short wheelbase tractors aggrivate the situation further. Ideally, scrapers and blades should be mid mounted anyway.


I've thought of bolting heavy steel channel skids or runners to the side plates of the box blade. The skids would need to be long enough to span crest-to-crest of the ridges... probably 5-6 feet long. That could get pretty ungainly, but I think that's the way the Gradall road implements work.

Good luck, and please keep us posted!