Used tractor, 1st time tractor owner, tips?

[jfobel]

Hey thanks yall. Great information for a newbie. I will take it easy and will watch the loader. Keep in mind the pto and loose clothing.

I am in east texas. not a whole lot of ice/snow.

The owner/service manuals I think will be good. I try to turn a wrench when possible.

My first projects will be to spread gravel for a driveway. I have about 3-4 acres I want to bush hog and hope to get some grass growing. I have 8.5 acres total and all of it is loaded with hardwoods. So lots of shady areas. Much of my land is on gradual slope with several washouts and very rough/bumpy terrain I would hope to smooth out over time.

Thanks again for the replies.


Jack

 

[john_bud]

Tip #1 - if it has a filter change it
Tip#2 - if it's a fluid, drain and replace
Tip #3 - with the rear tire valves down low, see if there is any fluid in them. If not, fill. 2 gal of anti-freeze, then water should be OK in TX

Opertional tips
Get a big pry bar. I have a 5' one and it's very often used to move attachments to align them.

When connecting attachments, do the left 3pt arm first. Have the arms slightly low, then manually lift them up. Then do the right one with the adjuster for fine tuning, then the top link.

Practice 2 things. #1 when any thing "funny" happens STOMP the clutch as hard and fast as you can. ALWAYS! Cultivating that as a reflex will save you thousands of dollars and hours of time. #2 when mowing, your right hand rests on the 3pt lift lever. You hit a rock, stump, buried old steel fence post, etc learn to instantly lift the 3pt. That takes the mower out of danger. (You should find your left foot on the fully stomped clutch peddle when you happen to wonder why the tractor isn't moving. If not, repeat #1)

When using the FEL, you rest your right hand on the FEL control. Reflex is to push the joystick forward to lower the bucket using float. DON'T stop a full bucket suddenly as it can pop the lines. No pressure relief on that side of the valve.


Old hands with tractors really enjoy sending a green horn on a tractor out with a mower to watch the total confusion, spastic reactions and loud cussing as they run over "stuff". (so don't have any of them around when you are going to pull your first bone head move)

jb

 

[jfobel]

john_bud that is funny. I know I am green but accept the fact. Those are great tips, thats stuff I need to hear.

Here are some photos from last year when I bought the property. Any tips on how I can get the ground smoother. Do i have to till the whole land first? I have heard of people dragging thing behind the tractor to help smooth it.

I know this is off topic but any tips on getting grass to grow in shade is apreciated too!

http://www.tyler-it.com/land/land1.jpg

http://www.tyler-it.com/land/land2.jpg

http://www.tyler-it.com/land/land3.jpg

http://www.tyler-it.com/land/land4.jpg

 

[john_bud]

jfobel,

Little slice of heaven you got there.

If you go to the "projects" forum and search on road building, you will find a lot of stuff on getting your driveway in shape. Basically, you need to remove the organic top layer (it will break down over time and the road will sag / pothole), then put down geo-textile fabric, then various layers of different sized stone to get the roadway 4-6" above the grade. A box blade is a good tool for road work. (in "Attachments" search for box blade and you will find more information than you could have imagined.)

On the ground, first take a dozen soil samples for analysis, then mow it down. Then add whatever amendments that are needed. (for lime I like to add 2/3 of the recommended amount before working the soil then 2/3 after working it. Yeah, that's 4/3rd, I know. But you are putting it in more soil and getting it down deeper). Then buy a 5' or 6' double disc and disk the field. If you don't want to spend the money on a disc (cheapskate!) you can use the scarifiers on the box blade as a half-fast substitute. Come to think about it, you probably have a layer of caleche under the soil (or is it all hard clay?). If so, you may want to spend $200 on a middle buster / sub-soiler. Drag that around first, then disc.

You can make your own smoothing drag. Buy a roll of 6' tall chain link fence. (50' or so) Cut down a tree that is about 2' in diameter and 7' long. Unroll the fence and put the log in it. Bolt or afix the chain to the log and wind it up tight, leave about 8-10' of fence out the back. Bolt the wound up fence to the log so it can't unwind. At the end of the 8-10' remaining end, bolt a section of log or post 12" in diameter. Use eyelet bolts in the big log to connect a short chain between the end of the log and the 3pt arms. You drag the sucker around and around and around. The rough bottom will break up the dirt clods and smooth it out. This is used after the box blade has rough'ed it in. The box moves dirt from high to low, this will smooth it all out.

You may need to thin out some of the trees to get more light for lawn. I'd check with the local home centers and the ag extension office on what grass grows best in your area.

Have fun,
jb

 

[diesal]

manual is a usefull tool. came with my operators manual on jd . it covers what you listed and more