used woods 750 for my kubota b7800
- Thread starter z0lt3c
- Start date
Ductape
Elite Member
It doesn't look inappropriately sized....... but i do think the bucket would be better a couple inches narrower. Are you sure you don't want to adapt a subframe to it and keep it?? You could even get a little crazy and paint it orange ! 
I finally got the last pieces back from the machine shop to hookup the "Safe-T" arms which came w/ the 3pt mounting kit. I had to chop down the arms to get them to fit on the tractor.
I also spent a few more hours adjusting the positions of the toplink and height of the sidelink arms. All of the ground and bolt clearances are now within Woods specifications. With the Safe-T arms in place, the 3pt arms are locked, and cannot be height adjusted (I guess this is the point) so the arms must be installed w/ the tractor at the right height position.
Took some close ups of the mounting kit;
Look I can dig holes now; (this will become a dry well for a drainage run-off pipe)
Pretty happy that the thing doesn't chew up my lawn anymore then the zero-turn my mowing crew uses to cut it.
I also spent a few more hours adjusting the positions of the toplink and height of the sidelink arms. All of the ground and bolt clearances are now within Woods specifications. With the Safe-T arms in place, the 3pt arms are locked, and cannot be height adjusted (I guess this is the point) so the arms must be installed w/ the tractor at the right height position.
Took some close ups of the mounting kit;
Look I can dig holes now; (this will become a dry well for a drainage run-off pipe)
Pretty happy that the thing doesn't chew up my lawn anymore then the zero-turn my mowing crew uses to cut it.
jfay
Silver Member
I have essentially the same backhoe. It is a Kubota 4530, but it was made by woods and the parts are completely the same. I started out like you did with the 3 point link up, but got nervous about breaking the toplink holder. I found a subframe that fit my tractor, and with a little work, I fabbed it up to match the backhoe. I reversed the three point hookup and attached it to the frame so I don't have to worry about a toplink. The pictures show the backhoe before (which I bought for $350), the restored backhoe and the subframe set up.
Jamie
Jamie
Attachments
Just when I thought I had this project finished.... You go and post pictures of your shiny orange fresh rebuild with gleaming cylinder rods and a custom subframe. Cuts me right down to size
Wow that looks great!!!!! I am sure you spent much more then $350 to get from before to after...
I see a Kubota sticker on the subframe, so I can only assume you welded on those tabs for the Safe-T arms to the subframe yourself? Any more pictures of the subframe fabrication??? Is it removable? Any pictures of it on the Kubota instead of a ?ford?
At the very least you've convinced me to paint mine.
jfay
Silver Member
Adam:
The subframe was a Kubota subframe and I welded the tabs on to connect the Safe T arms. They bolt on and are removable. Getting the subframe bolted to the backhoe is a bit of a job, so I usually keep it all connected up. That's a Farmall by the way, not a Ford.
Yeah, I put some money into this, but more labor than money. New hoses, cylinder rebuild kits, paint and the Safe T frame. Maybe a thousand total, including the backhoe.
Jamie
The subframe was a Kubota subframe and I welded the tabs on to connect the Safe T arms. They bolt on and are removable. Getting the subframe bolted to the backhoe is a bit of a job, so I usually keep it all connected up. That's a Farmall by the way, not a Ford.
Yeah, I put some money into this, but more labor than money. New hoses, cylinder rebuild kits, paint and the Safe T frame. Maybe a thousand total, including the backhoe.
Jamie
Attachments
Ductape
Elite Member
Great idea. I also believe the new style four point mount subframe could be adapted fairly easily also.
Bill_M
Bronze Member
zOlt3c:
I also have a Woods 750, but yours looks better. Mine is on a Kubota L2900. I fabricated a subframe from some 4" channel. It is welded on but it would not be that hard to bolt it in place with a few modifications. I also custom made mounts on the tractor. I would keep a close eye on the bolt that you have throught the top link bracket, the threads might rapidly oblong the hole that they are in. I say this because when I first bought my hoe I used the three point mount for the first 5 hours or so and when I went to remove the hoe the first time the pin in the top link bracket was bent enough that it had to be beaten out and the hole was already starting to oblong. This is what convinced me to build a subframe sooner than later. The drawbar bracket lets me offset the drawbar to either side as well as the same pin also retaining the 1-3/8" pin on the subframe. the front end has a bracket that attaches to the loader support arms that connect to the rear axle housing and uses 3/4" bolt in them. The bolts are not install in the included picture. The stability is greatly increased withe the subframe over the 3 point set up.
I also have a Woods 750, but yours looks better. Mine is on a Kubota L2900. I fabricated a subframe from some 4" channel. It is welded on but it would not be that hard to bolt it in place with a few modifications. I also custom made mounts on the tractor. I would keep a close eye on the bolt that you have throught the top link bracket, the threads might rapidly oblong the hole that they are in. I say this because when I first bought my hoe I used the three point mount for the first 5 hours or so and when I went to remove the hoe the first time the pin in the top link bracket was bent enough that it had to be beaten out and the hole was already starting to oblong. This is what convinced me to build a subframe sooner than later. The drawbar bracket lets me offset the drawbar to either side as well as the same pin also retaining the 1-3/8" pin on the subframe. the front end has a bracket that attaches to the loader support arms that connect to the rear axle housing and uses 3/4" bolt in them. The bolts are not install in the included picture. The stability is greatly increased withe the subframe over the 3 point set up.
Attachments
Bill_M
Bronze Member
A couple more pictures. The up right top link bracket that bolts on is 3/4" plate and is also part of the drawbar bracket. The top link plates with the pin holes and the main drawbar bracket are 1/2" plate, the guide plates for the 1-3/8" cross pin are 3/8" x 1-1/2". The hoe subframe is 4" channel boxed with 1/4" plate and a 3/4" x 20+ inches long where it attaches to the hoe brackets where the lower 3 point pins were and is welded on with 1/2"x3"x ~7" end caps to the rear side of the crossmember. The cross pin gussets are 5/8"x 4" angle with 3/8"x1-1/2" guide plates. The front bolt tubes were left over from some Western snow plow kits so I don't remember any measurements but the hole are over 3/4" which makes it easy to install the bolts. The front mount on the loader support arms is 3/8x 1-3/4" angle and two more tubes. i can install or remove the hoe in about 5 min. using the hoe hydraulics.
Attachments
Bill_M
Bronze Member
I also made a narrower bucket that is 9" wide, it came with a 16" bucket. The serrated cutting edge and the sides cutters are made from worn out snow plow cutting edges. Boy do I some times miss scrap metal dumpster diving at that job. All of the above materials came from there. Also included are two parts lists that I based my design on. I do not remember who here deserves credit for posting them.
