Does anyone have the procedure or knowledge on how to properly adjust the valve lash on a X540 John Deere? Im approaching the 200 hour service interval and would like to do it myself if possible. What tools will I need and procedure should I follow? The local sevice shop wants $200 for performing the tranny flush and valve service. I have no problem doing the tranny filter and flush but don't know what's involved with the valve lash adjustment. I assume i need a shim gage set, and a procedure for getting the crank in certain orientation depending on what valve is being adjusted. Im very mechanically inclined but have never performed this particular service. Thanks in advance for any help anyone can provide.
Valve lash proceedure for X540 Kawi. 200 hour service
- Thread starter luv2mow
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Carl_NH
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- 01 Kubota B21TLB, 2010 Ferris 52" ZTR, Cub Cadet 1811, Gravely Super8
Your engine should be the Kawasaki FD731V type 26 HP Water cooled?
If so remove the valve covers and get a feeler gauge set - I like the stepped ones - they are $4-7 at any auto parts place.
This is not a hard adjustment, and I always check the clearance before loosening anything and the suggested clearances are .006" and if they are for example .007" I would not adjust unless you want to do it.
Here is a diagram below.
If so remove the valve covers and get a feeler gauge set - I like the stepped ones - they are $4-7 at any auto parts place.
This is not a hard adjustment, and I always check the clearance before loosening anything and the suggested clearances are .006" and if they are for example .007" I would not adjust unless you want to do it.
Here is a diagram below.
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Carl_NH
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No Problem as long as that's your engine and if you want to double check with the dealer on the specs when you are getting the gaskets.
They might also seat or lap the valves during their sevice (per my 25 HP air cooled Kawasaki manual its 300 hours for the valve seat/lap process and 200 hours to check the clearance)
Also they suggest checking cold, and I have reused valve cover gaskets - just cleaned up the metal and added a thin coating of silicone gasket material to hold the old gasket in place - no leaks yet.
Good luck,
Carl
They might also seat or lap the valves during their sevice (per my 25 HP air cooled Kawasaki manual its 300 hours for the valve seat/lap process and 200 hours to check the clearance)
Also they suggest checking cold, and I have reused valve cover gaskets - just cleaned up the metal and added a thin coating of silicone gasket material to hold the old gasket in place - no leaks yet.
Good luck,
Carl
Carl_NH
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- 01 Kubota B21TLB, 2010 Ferris 52" ZTR, Cub Cadet 1811, Gravely Super8
No Problem as long as that's your engine and if you want to double check with the dealer on the specs when you are getting the gaskets.
They might also seat or lap the valves during their sevice (per my 25 HP air cooled Kawasaki manual its 300 hours for the valve seat/lap process and 200 hours to check the clearance)
Also they suggest checking cold, and I have reused valve cover gaskets - just cleaned up the metal and added a thin coating of silicone gasket material to hold the old gasket in place - no leaks yet.
Oh - forgot to add - remove the plugs before doing the valve check as thats the way you can turn over the engine easily and also stick a screwdriver in the plug hole to tell when the piston is TDC.
Good luck,
Carl
They might also seat or lap the valves during their sevice (per my 25 HP air cooled Kawasaki manual its 300 hours for the valve seat/lap process and 200 hours to check the clearance)
Also they suggest checking cold, and I have reused valve cover gaskets - just cleaned up the metal and added a thin coating of silicone gasket material to hold the old gasket in place - no leaks yet.
Oh - forgot to add - remove the plugs before doing the valve check as thats the way you can turn over the engine easily and also stick a screwdriver in the plug hole to tell when the piston is TDC.
Good luck,
Carl
JDTank
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Do NOT use a screwdriver. Your talking about pushing the piston head against another hard metal object, there is a chance for damage.
What I use is an old pull string from a push mower. Stick that in and move the piston up, it will jam against the string, which is soft and won't harm anything, versus a hard screwdriver.
Carl_NH
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- 01 Kubota B21TLB, 2010 Ferris 52" ZTR, Cub Cadet 1811, Gravely Super8
JD - have you ever pushed a rope?
In determining TDC of a piston, I insert a simple screwdriver (a hard fixed object) into the head while turning the engine by hand.
There is no way one can damage a cylinder/piston head while turning by hand with a hard object to determine TDC!
I do understand your approach and yes it will also determine TDC by binding the rope to the top of the head.
How does this work for domed "hemi" type pistons where the edge is lower than the center?
In determining TDC of a piston, I insert a simple screwdriver (a hard fixed object) into the head while turning the engine by hand.
There is no way one can damage a cylinder/piston head while turning by hand with a hard object to determine TDC!
I do understand your approach and yes it will also determine TDC by binding the rope to the top of the head.
How does this work for domed "hemi" type pistons where the edge is lower than the center?
Eric Barney
Silver Member
Remember, The piston has to be at TDC during the COMPRESSION stroke. If you adjust the valves during TDC overlap, (The exhaust valve is closing, and the intake is opening) the clearance will be way too loose after you adjust the valves. This can be easily observed while turning the engine slowly. At TDC overlap, both valves will be slightly open. At TDC compression, both valves will be closed with some play between the rockers and the valves. An easy way to be sure that you are on the correct stroke: Put your finger over the plug hole (to seal it) while turning the engine. If you feel pressure as the piston rises, You are on the compression stroke.