PaulT - Thanks for the informative reply and the article link. My strategy is similar to yours in testing several varieties for adaptability to my environment. I have a local hunter taking on the turkey and deer which will help in setting their travel paths. I do intend to follow the sequence of clear field-> set deer fence->plant cover crop->set posts->tile-> construct trellis->plant vines. At this time I'm at step one but planning for later steps. On the tiling side why go down 6 ft when most seem to go for 30-36 inches? I thought tiling depth is related to where most of the root structure would be. Lets keep in touch. Cheers.
Vineyard Drainage - Tiling
- Thread starter Haoleguy
- Start date
willywildes
Silver Member
If you want a good book on the subject. Check out From Vines To Wines buy Jeff Cox. You can get it at Barnes & Nobel, around $20 It will answer all these questions. Good luck
PS or the publisher at web page STOREY BOOKS
PS or the publisher at web page STOREY BOOKS
PaulT
Gold Member
The logic for going 6 feet down is this:
The maximum the roots would like to grow is about 4 feet down. Add another foot for drainage through the soil, and the final foot for the gravel and tile.
Remember, all vinifera sold in the US is grafted onto US rootstock, so the root depth of the species is not indicative. I buy my vines from Double A Vineyards in Fredonia, NY. You can specify root stock with different degrees of vigor to "adjust" the root depth and density. A "low" vigor root will not grow as deep, but may yield more fruit, depending on many factors. It is not an indication of the overall vine vigor.
I agree that 6 feet is a lot of digging. That's one reason why I didn't do it.
The maximum the roots would like to grow is about 4 feet down. Add another foot for drainage through the soil, and the final foot for the gravel and tile.
Remember, all vinifera sold in the US is grafted onto US rootstock, so the root depth of the species is not indicative. I buy my vines from Double A Vineyards in Fredonia, NY. You can specify root stock with different degrees of vigor to "adjust" the root depth and density. A "low" vigor root will not grow as deep, but may yield more fruit, depending on many factors. It is not an indication of the overall vine vigor.
I agree that 6 feet is a lot of digging. That's one reason why I didn't do it.
PaulT
Gold Member
I agree with Willywildes. Be careful on amending the soil with nutrients. It has been said that the best wine grapes grow from vines that are stressed. The theory goes that in poor soil, the fruit will be more intense as the vine conserves the nutrients it does have and concentrates them into a small, sweet grape with less water.
OK, so I'll put less organic stuff (top soil, mostly) in the area of my garden where I plan the 2 grape arbors of 32' each. I'm no expert, in fact I'm not even qualified as a novice, but sand wouldn't seem conducive to growth of much, except scraggly grass and weeds. I've some areas of my property that have a good organic content in the soil, but not where my wife wants to place the garden.
So, thanks for the advice, I'll go easy on the top soil. As far as drainage - we got 2 inches in a day this weekend, and the sandy area was dry the next day, whereas the high organic areas were a bit muddy.
Anybody know of a good grape for wine that thrives in the coastal South? Basically, by specifying "coastal South" we're stuck with some variety of muscadine. My state Ag department has a few recommendations, but whether they know much about wine is another question (South Carolina is not exactly a world renown producer of fine wines).
So, thanks for the advice, I'll go easy on the top soil. As far as drainage - we got 2 inches in a day this weekend, and the sandy area was dry the next day, whereas the high organic areas were a bit muddy.
Anybody know of a good grape for wine that thrives in the coastal South? Basically, by specifying "coastal South" we're stuck with some variety of muscadine. My state Ag department has a few recommendations, but whether they know much about wine is another question (South Carolina is not exactly a world renown producer of fine wines).
willywildes
Silver Member
I'm by far no expert . I have read a few books on the subject. plan to take some classes once i get under way planting. I would trust your state ag dept, they are the experts. with a few dummies mixed in for good measure. They have the years of research to back them up. Muscadinia rotundifolia is recommended in that region, they are classified as Bronze, Black and White. ( from the book Vines to wine). The GALLO wine family made billions in the sand of the California central valley From Lodi to Modesto. So in closing have some fun play around with different types of vines see what happens. Your not counting on it to make the house payment.
Egon
Epic Contributor
I do have a question. Will the tile drains have to end in a settling pond to prevent a concentration of alkai salts ?
Egon
Egon