Water in my diesel fuel ?
- Thread starter DTCOOPER
- Start date
RobJ said:
Actually, for diesels they have gone away from alcohols. With the exception being the "rescue" types that need to dissolve wax build up and melt ice in the system. Nearly all of the additives for diesel are now based on Stoddard Solvent and a proprietary mixture of aromatic hydrocarbons of various molecular weights. A real popular one is 1,2,4 Trimethylbenzene in the range of 1-4% with the remainder stoddard solvent. Were one to look up these chemicals and cross reference them with common (cheap) chemical mixtures, one might find that "Parks Mineral Spirits Paint Thinner" is nearly identical to one of the more popular additives (Stanadyne). But, who would want to buy a gallon of the same stuff for less money than quart -- aside from me?
Anyhooo, DT - you sound like you have the old bad fuel out of the system. That's good. It also sounds like you have never had the need to bleed the fuel system before. That's both good and bad. First, look in the owners manual for the procedure on how to bleed the system. If you don't have an owners manual - visit the closest CASE dealer. They will be glad to print you out the procedure. (maybe free - may have to pay - depends on the dealer).
In general, to bleed out the fuel system of air you do the following things.
1) Make sure that you have flow from the tank out. That usually means fill the tank to 1/2. I nearly always fill it all the way. Seems to work better, but it's a personal preference deal.
2) Make sure that the fuel filter housing is on tight. One little barnacle of crud can be enough to let it suck air in. Trust me, take it apart and give it the white glove treatment.
2b) If you have a pump, it is usually after the filter or even part of the filter housing. It may have a bleed. Once the pump (called a lift pump) is pushing fuel, your troubles are mostly over. Positive pressure makes the bleed go so much faster.
3) There should be a top and a bottom drain on the filter housing. Open the bottom drain and fuel should pour out. You do that to get out any debris. If there is no fuel flow - make sure the valves from the tank to the filter are open. Then close the bottom drain and let the housing fill and bubble out of the top. Let it dribble until all the bubbles are gone, then tighten the top.
4) There may be a drain at the top of the injection pump (usually next in line from the filter). If so, open it and let the fuel dribble out until there are no more bubbles. Tighten it. Some pumps are self bleeding and have a line back to the tank.
This is the spot where I like to take a break. Seriously. If you can, get a charger on the battery, drink a cold beverage etc. A 30 - 60 min break will allow the bubbles in the pump to all get to the top and greatly reduce the chance of having an air lock in the pump.
5) loosen the injector fuel fittings at the engine. (not the pump!) Make sure the "STOP" lever is in the correct position to start and run the engine and put the throttle to full speed. That last bit is IMPORTANT - full throttle is needed. Crank the engine over for 30 seconds. (use a watch - 10 seconds of cranking "feels" like 30 seconds) It should have one injector burping at this point. Wait 1 minute to cool the starter. Crank the engine for 30 more seconds. You should have 2 injectors burping fuel. Wait 2 minutes. Crank for 30 more seconds - you should have all injectors spurting fuel. (if not - keep cranking for up to 3 more cycles). Keep adding 1 minute of cool time for every crank cycle.
6) Tighten the injector fuel lines down. Move the throttle to 1/2 and the engine should start with less than 30 seconds of cranking.
If the CASE instructions are different - trust them. This is my general method of bleeding and may or may not be correct for your equipment!
Good luck!
jb
RobJ
Elite Member
JB,
Cool info, can't argue with something i don't know. but i think a have a can of parks in the garage if needed.
i still hate to use anything but pure diesel, and down here there is no need to use anything else with a water separator.
Rob
Cool info, can't argue with something i don't know. but i think a have a can of parks in the garage if needed.
i still hate to use anything but pure diesel, and down here there is no need to use anything else with a water separator.
Rob
DTCOOPER said:Okay guys,
I have always been a lucky one, never to worry about water in my fuel or some such horrors..
I had a 5 gallon can of diesel, that had sat outside for a week or so. During which time I think it rained. I thought, heck, that little bitty spout, surely not enough rain got into it to hurt anything.
Well, I should have known when I poured some into the garden sprayer and sprayed a bursh pile to burn it, and it was VERY SLOW TO LIGHT AND BURN.
Well, I poured the rest into the tractor (Case D33) since it was very low on fuel. I took off across the barn yard, to go push up some more brush with the FEL, and about 100 yards away, the tractor idled down very very low, spit a little white smoke, and had zero power, despite the throttle position.
It sat there idling about 500 rpm for 5-10 seconds, then died.
Any attempt to start it anymore, was met with it "trying" to start, and occasional puffs of white smoke. I tried for 15 seconds 2 or 3 times, and just stopepd and went inside for the night as it was already getting dark..
NOW that I have done this, what are my options? Is there a simple additive I can add to the mix? Do I need to drain the fuel tank, lines, etc, and start over with clean fuel? Is there a simple solution, or does any effective solution require much mechanic"ing" and down time ?
Help fellas !!
Daniel
I have always found diesel to be very hard to light with a match, so I don't think that is a symptom of a lot of water.
I think you have a plugged fuel filter. You keep mentioning a 'bowl'. Are you sure there isn't a spin on fuel filter on this engine? I can't imagine a sediment bowl being the only fuel filter on a diesel...it would be a first for me. Every diesel I've ever seen had at least one spin-on filter.
well guys I got it started !!
There is a bleeder screw on the top of the injection pump. I opened it up, and then patience came in to play. I left it sitting, with a full tank, and about an hour later, I had fuel coming out of it.. I then cranked the engine, until I had fuel coming from the injector lines. Then cracked the lines at the injectors, and cranked a few more seconds. Then hooked them up and presto !! We had ignition!
Thanks for all of your help!! Now it's storming terribly here.. So no tractor play until tomorrow !
Daniel
There is a bleeder screw on the top of the injection pump. I opened it up, and then patience came in to play. I left it sitting, with a full tank, and about an hour later, I had fuel coming out of it.. I then cranked the engine, until I had fuel coming from the injector lines. Then cracked the lines at the injectors, and cranked a few more seconds. Then hooked them up and presto !! We had ignition!
Thanks for all of your help!! Now it's storming terribly here.. So no tractor play until tomorrow !
Daniel