water pressure reduction??

[tungularafishcamp]

I set up the heated water supply in the new greenhouse unfortunatly it made a nice fountain halfway thru the night. I have 3 55 gallon drums stacked on their sides and as the sun warms the drums the hot water goes to the top drum where I take it off the top to water and fill the bottom 2 drums from the bottom with cold spring water. It works well in the old greenhouse with just one drum but with 3 it blows the bung out of the top barrel and I need the larger supply of hot water for the bigger greenhouse.

Anyone know of a cheap or ez inline water pressure reducer. All the ones I find on the internet are for high pressure applications. I need something that will step 50 psi down to 20 or 25 psi.
Thanks,
Rick

 

[Damifino]

Rick, are you sure you don't need an thermal expansion tank, the big box stores carry them.

It sounds to me if I understood you correctly, this is spring fed, if so what you are getting is thermal expansion due to the heating of the water.

 

[ray66v]

The best way I know of, is with a pressure reducing valve. You can find one like this on the internet, or E-bay for around $40.

Water Pressure Reducing Valve, 3/4 In - Water Pressure Reducing Valves - Valves - Plumbing : Grainger Industrial Supply

 

[Kays Supply]

A boiler fill valve would do that easy. A pump relief valve might be good as a backup that you could pipe to a safe location. Both are adjustable to the range you stated.

 

[tungularafishcamp]

That is what the 3 tanks are solar heaters and with one the expansion on a warm day is ok but maybe 3 might be too much. I dunno it never made it to a sunny day, I set it up after dinner and all was fine when I went to bed got up in the wee hours and it was a gusher so my basic pressure is too much for the plastic bungs and would be even more so if it the tanks would survive to a sunny day.

I guess I might need both a pressure reducer for the incoming line as well as some kind of pressure relief or popoff for the thermal expansion. I tried that link to grangers(thanks) but their website is temporarily down.

I won't be back to civilization til nov. so am restricted to what I can get in here until next spring so no big box stores for me, but hey can't really spend much money that way.:laughing: of course except for 5.50 a gal gas

 

[Kays Supply]

There is always the old fashion way. Water will rise 2.3 ft for every pound of pressure. Put a 50ft stand pipe up and if the pressure goes higher it will go out the top, other wise it will maintain about 20 PSI. Once you reach 50' you can return the pipe to the ground and pipe away to where it will run off. That is how they used to maintain pressure in the old boiler systems.

 

[dangier_VA]

Are you using metal or plastic drums? Either way, I don't believe they are rated for that hydraulic pressure (hence the plugs blowing out). You may be asking for major trouble.

 

[tungularafishcamp]

thanks for the imput guys. I tried a combination of your advices and so far so good. Epoxied the bungs in and then put another T in the top of the system with 1/4 tubing running out of that. I just crack the fill valve, wait a few minutes for the pressure to build and wala, warm water for the plants. I shut the valve off when done and the tubing relieves the pressure as well as any thermal expansion during the day. Thanks for the help! This winter when I get out of here I will look at getting a real tank setup but if this is still working fine probably wont spend the money.
Rick

 

[turnkey4099]

A common hot water PRV valve (pressure relief valve) would work if it will open at a low enough pressure. They shut off when the pressure reduces.

Been a long time since I was on the tractor forums. Amazingly I found my old log-in.

Ooops, I see it was already suggested

Harry K

 

[pat32rf]

I used to use Watts Pressure Reducing valves on various plumbing jobs, such as dishwasher booster heaters. With them, they would only reduce the pressure of FLOWING water. We had solenoid valves in series with the valves. When the valve was open, water would flow at the set pressure. When the solenoid closed, pressure would equalize on but sides of the valve....