SPYDERLK
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2006
- Messages
- 10,160
- Location
- VA
- Tractor
- JD2010, Kubota3450,2550, Mahindra 7520 w FEL w Skid Steer QC w/Tilt Tatch, & BH, BX1500
Here is what has been done.
Thanks
- Pump replaced with Myers 1hp on Monday.
- Bladder tank replaced last night. 40psi put in and holding same pressure this morning.
- Checked the depth of the water in the well and it was roughly 60'.
- Depth of pump to the bottom of the well is roughly 20'
- Regulator switch NOT replaced but was working last night.
Wade
Ok guys I think that the issue is not with the tank or the switch. A friend came over that is an electrician and he jhas replaced all of this himself st one point. When he got here he manually kicked the pump on at the reg. The pressure shot to 50 psi and cut off. The wife turned the faucet on and the pressure held steady for a minute or so and then slowly started going down. At around 32 psi the reg tripped for the pump to come on. The pressure raised about 2 psi and then started falling until it hist 0. The pump was still on but pumping nothing to the tanks or to the well head. I am not a well guy as I have figured out the last week or so. However, this makes me think that I have 1 of 3 things going on.
1. The new pump is bad again or both legs are not pulling the same load. The problem with this is why does it pressurize and then when the house water is turned on and the pressure drops it comes back on bu no longer pumps??
2. The refresh rate is to slow now. The odd thing here is that it has never given us a problem over the last 8 years. The well is 322' deep. We measured the depth of the water last week and it was roughly 60' deep. The pump itself was 12' from the bottom. I took off 5 feet to rais it from the bottom more due to all the sediment that was on the line and pump when we pulled it. That still had the pump roughy 43' below the water line. The pump could really lower the well not that fast?????
3. The well is now bad. Again if this was the case why am I getting water???
At this point I do not know what to do. Does any of this point to a solution? Would adding 10' back to the line placing it 7' from the bottom fix the issue? Right now I have the breaker off to keep the pump from running. I almost would bet that if I turn the breaker back on in the morning I will have water for a while anyway.
Does any of this make sense??? Idea's????
Thank you all for the patience and help!
Wade
Theres 60' water in a 322' well. ... Circuitous to follow but I think thats right. Lowering the pump 10' in that case would, like you say, make only ~15 gal more reserve. ... But that is a significant proportion more than he has. Also, delivery rate increases continuously as you fall below the static level [where it is zero] so delivery would rise a bit too.Good Afternoon Harry,
Going back to the beginning of the thread the OP stated that hi static level was 60ft. He mentioned a well depth of 322 ft. So thats 260 ft of water minus the pump depth at 20 ft off the bottom, giving hom 480 to 500 gals of reserve... 1 1/2 gals per t Thats quite a bit of water for just domestic use.Ive read through the thread, and didnt see any mention of GPM return rate, but Im finding it hard to believe that he is actually running out of water. On a guess, and only a guess it almost sounds as if there is an issue with the pump.
Just a comment, by lowering the pump 10 ft, your only going to get about another 15 gals of reserve, and usually pump guys are not big on splicing in another section of pipe...
BUT there is no current info that confirms that hes reaching a dry pump condition. I think there is reason to consider the recent idea introduced that the pump is having trouble starting & running under hi pressure load. Consider that the pump must start and run at ~115PSI water column plus the water pressure in the tank. Is this a deep well pump made for this?
larry