Wet Sleeve

[Tole]

I have read the wet sleeves get painted with an oil based paint and put in wet. Any thoughts on color and thermal properties? I only have black oil based paint on hand, the point of the sleeve is to pull heat from the cylinder, would black make that harder?

 

[LouNY]

If you are referring to wet sleeves in an engine block I have never painted any I installed, all of them had orings to seal the sleeve to the water jacket.

 

[Tole]

It says "...coat liner with waterproof paint and insert sleeve into block before the paint dries..."

Here is a link that discusses this with a bit more direction.

how do you pull sleeves from a yanmar diesel? - Yanmar Tractor Support Message Board

I can see the old ones were painted in with orange paint, probably the same as the inside of the block.

 

[RickB]

I have never seen that recommendation before.

 

[winston1]

Some of the old Yanmars had wet sleeves (o-ring seals), some dry sleeves. I can't give a full list of each but the 220/226 and 276 had the dry sleeves (no o-ring) and repair manuals for both make no mention of painting. Now on the other hand your 135, 155, 240, and many others including your 2210 do have wet sleeves (o-ring seals) and the manuals do state to "coat liner with waterproof paint and insert sleeve into block before paint dries."

 

[Tole]

Now on the other hand your 135, 155, 240, and many others including your 2210 do have wet sleeves (o-ring seals) and the manuals do state to "coat liner with waterproof paint and insert sleeve into block before paint dries."

Any thoughts on using black vs a lighter color? It is just the top and bottom, not the whole sleeve. Maybe I am just over thinking it.

 

[winston1]

I always have an opinion, often wrong. I don't think color is important. :2cents:

 

[radios1]

Any thoughts on using black vs a lighter color? It is just the top and bottom, not the whole sleeve. Maybe I am just over thinking it.

actually, green is better than black, that's why leaves are green, to better capture the heat from the sun!..

 

[rScotty]

Any thoughts on using black vs a lighter color? It is just the top and bottom, not the whole sleeve. Maybe I am just over thinking it.

What an interesting question! I make up my own woodworking varnish - it's expensive to buy and I'm particular about varnish. But I never have added pigment to it to make it into paint. I'm always toying with the proportions and curing time so that it cures reasonably quickly and smooth without wrinkles - but that's as far as I've gone with it. Our house has a lot of natural wood, so it made sense to figure out how to make it rather than just buy it. More fun, too.

Paint pigments are simply small particles....colored dust. So as the paint dries, the pigment particles are going to form the matrix that the oil-based paint will engulf and grow on as it cures - adding mechanical stability to the finished product. BTW, curing for oil-based water-resistant paints is a matter of short molecules growing longer - polymerization rather than simply "drying" by evaporating away the solvent percentage.

This all means that the final mechanical properties of the paint is going to depend to some extent on the color...... Wow!
I'll be darned, thanks for the question. I had never even given that a moment's thought. Fascinating stuff, though.

Color itself is tricky. It's a balance between some of the spectrum being absorbed and some reflected. In pigments, black (carbon particles) are the smallest and the most common "white" pigment is only slightly larger. Then there is "loading" or how much pigment to put in. Flat colors are usually loaded more highly than the transluscents - so my guess is they are going to be tougher. The pigments that form simply colors like blue,green, & yellow typically are typically 2 to 20 times larger than black or white.

Frankly, I'd use white. Either a titanium or zinc white. It's a nice common pigment of medium size particles that mixes easily and is durable.

Now here's a question back for you. If in a wet sleeve installation the paint - mostly boiled linseed oil along with a few other oils and pinches of this and that with pigment - if that oil-based paint it is being used as an assembly lubricant and then as a sealer when it cures - how much heat can it take? Apparently it does OK.
rScotty

 

[3Ts]

Now here's a question back for you. If in a wet sleeve installation the paint - mostly boiled linseed oil along with a few other oils and pinches of this and that with pigment - if that oil-based paint it is being used as an assembly lubricant and then as a sealer when it cures - how much heat can it take? Apparently it does OK.

Since this is a wet sleeve cylinder, how hot does coolant get? A google says about 200* typically with worst case around 265*. So, higher than "normal" but nowhere near the BBQ high temp paint requirements.