What features/requirements for a shed?

[bryk]

There are a lot of great threads on this forum about the sheds folks have or are building. I'm
in the process of thinking/designing a shed for my Kubota B2400. What I have not seen here
is a discussion of features you think are nice for the shed.

Right now, I am thinking a 16'X20' shed built on raised footers and 2 sets of 4X4 beams under the
tractor wheelbase. Why 16' wiudth? I want to build a 10' door. Why 20' length? The tractor is just
over 15' with the FEL and back blade. Why raised footers? Location is on a slope and I want to avoid
water problems (and my neighbor also has a 9" post-hole digger that I can borrow).

I have some spare windows that I will install. I don't plan to run electrical out there for a while, but
might in the future.

I have a 60" mid-mount mower deck that I plan to take off in Winters. But, I'll have to take it off on
the driveway and use the FEL to move it to a storage location...16' width isn't enough width to allow
taking off the mower deck.

What features do you wish you had build into your shed? For example, should I get a metal garage door instead of building my own double doors?

Again, just looking for new ideas while I am in the design phase!

bill
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[WVBill]

bill: You said:
<font color=blue>"But, I'll have to take it off on the driveway and use the FEL to move it to a storage location...16' width isn't enough width to allow taking off the mower deck."</font color=blue>

That will get old pertty quick - and you WILL end up getting more 3 point attachments. So I recommend you build the shed long enough and wide enough to take implements off and store them without needing to leave the shed. This could be accomplished with a flat enough floor and just enough space to permit un hitching your implements onto dollies and then shuffleing them around as necessary.

The pole building I built doesn't have enough room for implements so currently they sit outside lined up along the back of the building. I'm going to add a lean-to back there to give them some cover.

 

[beenthere]

I built a 24 x 24' shed, and it is not big enough, need at least 30 x 45' /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif /w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif

<font color=blue>""and 2 sets of 4X4 beams under the
tractor wheelbase. ""<font color=black>

If you are talking 4x4 steel beams, fine. But not sure what you would be able to get in 4x4 wood as most 4x4's are hardly usable as posts, let alone beams where they are used in bending mode. I suggest you think beyond 4x4's wood, and get some veneer laminated rimboard beam material, or I-joists. My point is that 4x4 wood posts are normally made from the core of the tree because that is too poor of quality to make a 2x4. That is where all the limbs (knots) originate in the young tree and is the weakest wood the tree produces.

Good luck getting the shed of your dreams. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[MossRoad]

I have double, swing out doors on my tractor shed.... I hate them /w3tcompact/icons/mad.gif /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

When it snows, I have to shovel by hand to clear the snow from in front of the doors before I can get my tractor out. When the wind blows, I have to secure them or they will swing around and whack things(usually me). If I was building a new shed, I'd go with an overhead in a heartbeat.

Also, from some comments by other owners with ROPS, make sure it is tall enough to let the tractor in the door. Sounds like an obvious thing to do, but is easily overlooked. Even some folks with folding ROPS have forgotten and done wheelies at the garage door. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

I'm fortunate that my <A target="_blank" HREF=http://users.beanstalk.net/godollei/pt425/PT425Pictures/PT425mainpic.jpg>Power Trac ROPs and canopy</A> are only 5 foot 6 inches high /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[ScottAR]

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.angelfire.com/ar/dw42/index.htm>Here</A>
is a site of a car fellow that is active on another webspot I frequent. He built his own shop that has some interesting ideas, including the homemade doors. Just spool down to the machine shop area.

 

[JDGREEN4ME]

I don't like the double wide doors on my shed much either...due to the same reasons you listed. I ended up mounting two posts on either side of the shed at the point the doors are opened the widest, mounted eye bolts on the posts and the doors and use bungee cords to secure the doors open. Might sound stupid...but it works fine!

 

[rocky2]

I agree about the double doors. Seemed like a good idea at the time. After the last shovel the doors clear, get the pick to knock down the frozen mud/slag, to get the tractor out...I realize why real barns have sliders. Yeah, at the time I figured hinges were cheaper than the other hardware and worked just as well. Go as large as you can on your building. Mine is 28 X 28 and I'm out of room, the expansion is planned for this summer. Also if I were you I 'd consider a gambrel roof instead of a normal pitch roof to allow for more room for rafter storage.

 

[rdbrumfield]

I know that I have steel desease bad. I have mine at 36X48, with 3 overhead doors, 12' high. I figured that whith that much room I'd have it all out of the rain, ha, guess again. With the welder, torches, welding table, table saw and shelves, 24X10' along one side with support equip for wood, steel and the running equip, I'm lucky to get the tractor out of the rain. Of course it doesn't help to have a couple of motorcycles and riding lawn mowers in the way. Good thing my driveway isn't long enough to land my plane here, I'd really be up the creek.
Bottom line, BUILD THE BIGGEST BUIDING YOU CAN AFFORD.

 

[CTyler]

I hope 50x64 will hold me for a while. Just had the building materials dropped of yesterday

I can see where it could fill up quick having vehicles, tractor, trailor shop area and a finished work room.

 

[rdbrumfield]

50X64?, you lucky dog, I am totally envious.