Buying Advice What is the best generator for our needs?

[duke7595]

Just a thought, Ebay has a good selection you may want to look them over

good luck

 

[meburdick]

Investigating threads on TBN there are numerous reports of multiple year storage of diesel, unlike untreated ethanol laced gasoline which seems to start to go bad after a few weeks.

I don't understand why you state:

Are you a homeowner?

Example




I've diesel in a van that sat for two years and fired up this summer after I replaced the glo plugs. Because of that I did a pretty wide search recently.

Perhaps you failed to read this part of my statement:

By keeping the tank topped off (to keep the air from it) and adding an appropriate treatment to take care of water AND algae I've had great success in keeping fuel. I called it proper planning, storage and treatment, you can call it luck.

From BP (the folks that brought you the black beaches of the Gulf Coast)

Yes, I am a homeowner. And, as such, I know that it would be theoretically possible (but impossible in practice) for me to have a tank to store diesel for significant periods of time. It isn't practical for the homeowner, though, because you have to periodically sample the fuel, possibly treat the fuel, and ensure that it is kept 100% moisture-free. This is possible, but not practical, for the average homeowner.

If your fuel is not 100% algae free when you get it, or if the tank you store it in has even ONE microbe, there goes the algae free aspect.

If you do not fill the tank 100%, or purge the air and replace it with a completely moisture free / inert gas, you no longer have the complete moisture free aspect.

Yes, there are numerous reports of people having done it. There are also numerous reports of people winning the lottery. Neither of those means that I (or anyone) should expect those results "out of the box".

BP's statement about underground storage has nothing to do with what is being discussed here for long-term storage because it is a COMPLETELY different storage system that is in use there.

The long and short of it is this - just because I should be able to store diesel for a lengthy period of time, that doesn't mean I should get a 55-gallon drum and count on it being viable when I really need it.

 

[BobRip]

I've test measured both a 1hp, and a 3/4hp pump at 275' with a high accuracy device. The first drew 30 amps the other 25 amps, both at 240 volts, and both high currents for about a full second. You have to remember that a large mass of water must be accelerated, and check valves moved. You can't compare a 1hp deep well pump load like other 1hp motors when sizing a genny.
Another factor is that it's the vertical distance from the water top surface to your house level, not the depth of the well that determines the running load, but for starting, it's the total depth that matters.

With my pump down 300 feet, high currents stayed for about 30 seconds. If I remember correctly it was above 20 amps for that 30 seconds. This was measured several years ago so my memory may be off.

The extra 100 feet of pipe to the house also adds some startup load. You are accelerating water just like it is a flywheel coming up to speed.

 

[RFB]

Bob,

Just to be clear, (what I think you are saying), one must include total lift and travel to the pressure tank (what you call "pipe to the house").

If I were going to total the water load at pump start, I would include total lift from static level of water in the well (I think that the static level of water is where you are truly pumping from, not the depth of the pump), plus distance from the pitless adapter to the pressure tank, plus the residual pressure in the tank at pump start (usually around 30 psi).

I think we are saying close to the same thing.

 

[meburdick]

Bob,

Just to be clear, (what I think you are saying), one must include total lift and travel to the pressure tank (what you call "pipe to the house").

If I were going to total the water load at pump start, I would include total lift from static level of water in the well (I think that the static level of water is where you are truly pumping from, not the depth of the pump), plus distance from the pitless adapter to the pressure tank, plus the residual pressure in the tank at pump start (usually around 30 psi).

I think we are saying close to the same thing.

There are two things that the pump must do work to do: Make the water that is sitting still start to move (overcome inertia) and then raise the water. Getting the water moving in the first place is what takes all the power. Once moving, the only "work" the pump must do is to lift it above the static water level.

 

[schoolsout]

FWIW, Sam's here in Charleston, SC, had Honda powered 7kw (I think 7 and not 8k) with the GX390 engine, elec. start and wheel kit for $999. For a little less, there was a 6800kw Yamaha powered one without elec start and wheels at about $750 or so, I believe. Our well guy said we'd need 5-6k to run the well (1hp) pump.

 

[meburdick]

FWIW, Sam's here in Charleston, SC, had Honda powered 7kw (I think 7 and not 8k) with the GX390 engine, elec. start and wheel kit for $999. For a little less, there was a 6800kw Yamaha powered one without elec start and wheels at about $750 or so, I believe. Our well guy said we'd need 5-6k to run the well (1hp) pump.

I have that Yamaha one, only mine has the electric start. Worked flawlessly for me during a day's power outage running my well pump (3/4 HP submersible), lights, garage door opener, fish tank filters, ceiling fans, hot water tank (oil-fired), computers, and a variety of other things. The power output isn't "clean" like it should be, though. The voltage does not stay dead on like it should, so I will probably be adjusting it a little.

I had a Coleman Powermate 5000 that run all of that same stuff, too. The Coleman died on me, though... It was old and poorly maintained by the previous home owner.

 

[schoolsout]

hmmm, maybe this one does have the electric start. I'll have to check again next time I'm there. Our power company is wanting to charge an insane amount to run power from cell tower on our property to where our shed is (~500') so we have been thinking of a generator for the time being. The Northern Tool equivalent Honda one they have is ~$1600 or so.

 

[daybreak1998]

Howdy,
OK, to sum up some of the aquired information now,
Catdiva6 lives in California. earthquake's disrupts NG lines. storing gasoline long term doesn't work. LPG is a option at the needed expense of tank, and amount used per price usage. Diesel is a option. The only thing to think about would be the well pump. Actually Catadiva6, can you go out and tell us what size the double pole circuit breakers are for the well pump? That will really narrow it down. The only problem comes to mind would be, do you have a avenue for diesel use? In otherwords, you really do not want to try to keep diesel a long long time. Moisture and algae are a problem when stored in 5 gallons plastic containers which have outside weather changes. I would still want to rotate the diesel fuel. If you were like BP, and had a huge underground<--key info) tank, then it would stay around a constant temperature. Diesel fuel swells (expands) in the heat, and contracts in cold, and in extreme cold, GEL's. Diesel generator come in 2 varieties. Air-cooled and liquid-cooled. The common air-cooled diesel generator does have a pretty good lifespan, but is not really rated for long term 24/7 use. That is why most will direct you to a liquid-cooled generator. But all this comes at a price way over your listed budget. You might think about just running cords everywhere, but, that gets old really quick. I posted some info about connection choices here. If your electric panel is a mainline (very common big name manuf) then there might be a interlock kit for your panel. That makes the portability work, by plugging in, and useing the panel to operate what you want.

 

[BobRip]

Bob,

Just to be clear, (what I think you are saying), one must include total lift and travel to the pressure tank (what you call "pipe to the house").

If I were going to total the water load at pump start, I would include total lift from static level of water in the well (I think that the static level of water is where you are truly pumping from, not the depth of the pump), plus distance from the pitless adapter to the pressure tank, plus the residual pressure in the tank at pump start (usually around 30 psi).

I think we are saying close to the same thing.

Yes we are. I don't think this makes sense to others here.