What is the best way to level truck when towing?

[kenbgbill]

I have an F150 and tow a 16’ flatbed trailer and a 25’ travel trailer. I first used a weight distribution hitch with some success. Then added air bags (Air Lift) which made a world of difference. So I’ll say go with both and you won’t regret it.

 

[Jrasband]

I got timbren bump stops for my Tacoma and it was a cheap solution that made a huge difference with towing. Only negative is the ride bottoms out pretty easily when I am not towing and is a rough ride according to the MRS.

 

[jgmo]

Air bags.
Some assembly required.
You will need:
A RELIABLE compressor.
An air storage tank.
Air lines
Right and left height control valves
Bags of proper proportion.

I recommend using control valves from a heavy truck or bus suspension system. They are more accurate and robust than the junk that comes in kits or from automotive oems like Ford.

Good luck.

 

[jjeff]

Air bags.
Some assembly required.
You will need:
A RELIABLE compressor.
An air storage tank.
Air lines
Right and left height control valves
Bags of proper proportion.

I recommend using control valves from a heavy truck or bus suspension system. They are more accurate and robust than the junk that comes in kits or from automotive oems like Ford.

Good luck.

Firestone air helper springs worked well for me,
Straightforward install with no new frame holes just had to remove the old bump stops , inflate with a standalone compressor and they hold air well overtime. I put a combiner valve on so both bags are the same psi as it's a pickup so it's usually balanced well, and only need to add air when pulling a trailer or slightly overload the bed.

 

[Fields_mj]

I'll throw in my 2 bits. I have a 2000 F350 crew cab long bed with the 7.3 PSD. My last truck was a '93 F350 with a 7.3 NA IDI. Both trucks have/had a 6,000 lb rear axle. Both trucks were/are equipped with 15,000 lb receivers and the tow package (ie brake controller). With the '93 I pulled a 25' Nomad travel trailer that was roughly 6K dry and a 15' equipment trailer (Tandem 5400 lb axles). The equipment trailer either hauled my 1710 tractor/loader (around 4k) or a trailer full of hickory logs for firewood (around 8k to 10k). Admittedly, I've overloaded the trailer with logs, and I'm not recommending that. The rear springs in the '93 were SUPER stiff. You could literally jump up and down on the tailgate and not even notice it in the cab. My current truck pulls the same equipment trailer under the same conditions. It also pulled the same camper until we replaced it with the current 34' trailer that weighs around 8k dry. Both travel trailers had load distribution, my equipment trailer does not.

Here's my take. Load distribution is mainly for travel trailers because the axles on a travel trailer are located pretty close to its center. Load distribution is "advertised" as leveling the truck, which is true, but that's not the main benefit. The main benefit is to stabilize the trailer when you encounter bumps on the road. I pulled the smaller trailer 1 time with out the load distribution, and I did it with the '93. I didn't bother because we were only 30 min from home, a hard rain was coming and we were in a big hurry. The entire ride home felt like we were rowing a boat through a storm on the ocean. Every bump had us bouncing over the subsequent waves over and over and over again. Never made that mistake again. I experienced a similar issue when I brought our current camper home (Knoxville TN to west central Indiana) because I didn't load the weight distribution system enough. It wasn't nearly as bad, but I took note to load it more in the future and that eliminated the problem.

Compare that to my equipment trailer and its a totally different story. Whether I'm hauling the tractor or firewood, there are no issues with bumps in the road. The axles on the equipment trailer are located 2/3 of the way back which generates a lot more tongue weight. In turn, that pretty much eliminates the possibility of the kind of bounce that I experienced with the travel trailer. The issue I have with the equipment trailer is when it's fully loaded, I have ground clearance issues with the tongue while I'm pulling it out of the woods (there is a creek to cross, and a creek bottom to climb out of). Airbags would really help with this, but I make do since I only pull it this way 2 or 3 times a year, I make do without it.

My recommendation is this. Look and see what your receiver is rated for, and what your rear axle is rated for. Then look at where your axles are on your box trailer. If you aren't even close to pushing the limits of your receiver or axle, and the axles are far enough to the rear that you don't have issues with any bounce going down the road, then get air bags and call it a day. If you're having bounce issues with your box trailer, or you're pushing the limits of your receiver or your rear axle, then get a WD system for the box trailer but don't use it with your boat.

 

[Shenandoah MF1760]

I prefer airbags, I can adjust from empty to loaded and maintain my ride, handling and level. I would recommend not using a T between the bags as separating them helps with side to side roll.

Sent from my SM-G715U1 using TractorByNet mobile app

You can use a T which makes it easy to get the same pressure on both sides at the same time. But, you'll need check valves to prevent the side-to-side roll and individual bleeders.

 

[Bearsixty7]

Here's my take. Load distribution is mainly for travel trailers because the axles on a travel trailer are located pretty close to its center. Load distribution is "advertised" as leveling the truck, which is true, but that's not the main benefit. The main benefit is to stabilize the trailer when you encounter bumps on the road.

Actually it has more to do with how travel trailers are often built or equipped with appliances and tanks with more of the weight forward so the axles may be closer to trailer center but not usually that much.
The main benefit is to transfer some of the tongue weight back to the front axle and reduce the "excess" amount of tongue weight on the rear axle therefore it stabilizes the tow vehicle and the trailer.
With too much tongue weight on the rear axle you can actually unload the front (steering, primary braking) axle and lose control much easier.

I pulled the smaller trailer 1 time with out the load distribution, and I did it with the '93. I didn't bother because we were only 30 min from home, a hard rain was coming and we were in a big hurry. The entire ride home felt like we were rowing a boat through a storm on the ocean. Every bump had us bouncing over the subsequent waves over and over and over again. Never made that mistake again. I experienced a similar issue when I brought our current camper home (Knoxville TN to west central Indiana) because I didn't load the weight distribution system enough. It wasn't nearly as bad, but I took note to load it more in the future and that eliminated the problem.

Compare that to my equipment trailer and its a totally different story. Whether I'm hauling the tractor or firewood, there are no issues with bumps in the road. The axles on the equipment trailer are located 2/3 of the way back which generates a lot more tongue weight. In turn, that pretty much eliminates the possibility of the kind of bounce that I experienced with the travel trailer. The issue I have with the equipment trailer is when it's fully loaded, I have ground clearance issues with the tongue while I'm pulling it out of the woods (there is a creek to cross, and a creek bottom to climb out of). Airbags would really help with this, but I make do since I only pull it this way 2 or 3 times a year, I make do without it.

Depends on cargo weight distribution. If the tongue weight is greater then the travel trailer this a better case for needing WD.

 

[Bearsixty7]

I have an F150 and tow a 16’ flatbed trailer and a 25’ travel trailer. I first used a weight distribution hitch with some success. Then added air bags (Air Lift) which made a world of difference. So I’ll say go with both and you won’t regret it.

This is a complicated situation. You have to make sure the use of air bags doesn't decrease the amount of weight distribution being sent back to the front axle. Very rarely will you need airbags if the tow vehicle is rated for the trailer and tongue weight and the WD is setup properly.

Airbags are used more for heavy 5th wheels or gooseneck trailers where the position of the hitch ball in the bed already applies more weight to the front axle and unloading of the front axle is never a concern.

 

[Morning Wood]

Air bags for sure. I have them on my F350 srw. I have front bags for snow plow as well. I use them all the time depending on what I’m towing and how loaded the trailer is. Having an onboard compressor and controller is the only way to do it imo.

 

[Lakebuster]

I'm looking for recommendations on keeping my truck level when towing my various trailers. I have a boat trailer that has about 750 lbs of tongue weight. I have a box trailer that tongue weight varies between 500 and 1200 lbs depending on loading and what I am carrying. I have a flatbed for moving my tractor and tongue weight varies depending on what implements I have on the tractor at the time. Several folks have said the best way to go is with a weight distribution hitch. But the manufacturer of my aluminum framed boat trailer says not to use them. The weights on the box trailer is all over the place and I'm not sure how much readjusting of a WD hitch might be needed. Then there is the option of using an air bag suspension. What does the collective TBN wisdom have to say/recommend?? TIA

I added air bags and compressor that is controlled by a remote control that looks like a garage door opener or an app on my phone on my 17 Ram 2500. The minimum air pressure is 5 psig and never had to put over 15 psig pulling the equipment trailer.