get your check chains and sway bar/chains for your 3pt hitch, and make sure you have weight on the front end of the tractor. make it either a FEL with bucket, to just plain weights on the front. a roatory mower, is like a dog wagging its tail. and in this case, the tail walks / drives the dog. vs other way around.
Tractor Attachments And Skid Steer Attachments For Any Tractor Or Skid Steer check out some videos they have for rotatory mowers. more so in adjust the PTO shaft between tractor and rotatory mower, and how to adjust the slip clutch on the rotatory mower.
since you are primarly cutting heave weeds and like. i would look under the rotatory mower deck. some of them have a circle of metal going around the blades. while others just have a plain deck underneath them. the circle of metal = more of a finishing mower setup were it helps suck stuff up into the blade. these sets require more PTO HP to run. in creation suction. to note it some folks use rotatory mowers to mow there grass lawn. vs cutting up weeds / saplings. this extra circle of metal also becomes a pain when cleaning the underside of the deck.
some folks have replaced the top link turn buckle with a short bar and chain. to let the rotatory mower go up and down some with the terrain.
use a peice of wire (fence wire or something ) on your turn buckles on 3pt hitch, they can vibrate / unscrew and fall off some place in the woods.
going into unknown territory, i tend to drop FEL bucket down to the ground and then raise it up a couple inches, so hopefully i push a log or like out of the way vs running it over it. some folks just remove FEL. but you need something for a BUSH guard or like. in front,or you risk running a branch through your radiator/s in front.
take care when you make turns with rotatory mower down on the ground, you can kink and bend the lower lift arms. the same thing can happen when backing up and tail wheel or deck snags a stump or log or like. 3pt hitches better at pulling stuff, but backing up and turning and nailing something can harm the 3pt hitch linkages.
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light duty, medium duty, heavy duty rotatory mowers. it is different manufacture to manufacture, and at times between models of same manufacture. light duty models rocks, to branches will hit the deck from underside and just begin dinging up and bending the deck up. gauge of metal thickness of metal, type of metal and its treatments for the decks can make a difference in how well the decks hold up from abuse.
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tail wheel/s
single wheel can be enough, but when backing up can get hung up on stuff. (example a bush you want out, and to big to drive tractor directly over it)
two tail wheels, can help on uneven ground, and keep the blades from digging into the ground.
see about a solid rubber tail wheel vs some tire that you inflate. the tail wheels will see a lot of sharp branches and like. and can be easy to puncture a tire. vs a solid rubber tire or like tire.
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my biggest issue with rotatory motors, would keeping the cut weeds/grass/mud off the top of them. and then making sure rain water will flow off the decks when not in use. and cause premature rusting. some frame works on the top of the decks, just "capture crud" and not easy to clean them off with an air compressor, or leaf blower, or garden hose.
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get some cheap chains for your chain saw, and just cut tree stumps level to slightly under the ground. vs leaving a couple inches sticking up. your tires will like you better, and when you walk and fall flat on your face or end up cracking a toe on one of them, you will be thankful of no stumps to nail.
trying to run over sapplings to cut them down, can result in just stripping the bark off them, and just making a big old mess, and even a bit more difficult in getting a chain saw to actually cut through them. due to main trunk is completely cracked up, split with bark warped around it. and the bigger issue for me, the sap is sticky wet mess. and causes issues even with gloves on. if you can cut it down with a chain saw cut it down, then mow everything.