What to check when looking at a zero turn?

[Dizno]

Then I just recently found a motorcycle company that makes an air bag for a motorcycle seat that replaces a spring. No increase in height of the seat. I bought a couple of those to replace the springs I added to the DR. I made a common yoke to fill both simultaneously and put an air gauge in the line.

This latest addition works real good and I can watch the changing pressure on the system as I drive along the rugged terrain. Neat to realize that that changing pressure used to be on my spine and now the air bag absorbs it.
Mark

Can you show a few pics of this? Sounds quite clever.

 

[Dizno]

JD makes some good machines but there are other good machines too. Someone with a fleet of JD machines isn't likely to recommend another brand. Talk to the shops/mechanics that work on them and see which ones have the least amount of problems. The zero turn market is very competitive which is good. It forces everyone to up their game as far as features and reliability.

John Deere has been making lawn machines since 1963. Customer satisfaction for any lawn mower on the survey on this website shows a 455 as the highest rated machine.

How much more independent do you want it to be?

There are some other good machines as well. Sorry for liking a well respected brand - I was just giving some solid tips on what could be things to look for - you gave none.

Thanks.

 

[Gary Fowler]

check hydro strength do that by driving up to stationary object wall or truck and edge zero turn till it meets and push handles forward should spin tires at equal amount of pressure , you want a zero turn with 2 pumps one for each drive wheel which the ferris has the vanguard is a briggs motor not to start the war not top choice on commercial zero turns { #3} also check the deck spindles look under the deck and see if all blades line up evenly and have no movement the spindles are not crazy expensive but not cheep, and check the belts again not cheap look for leaks motor and hydro, if its to clean be weary I sell about 70 used zero turns a year and we don't detail most like to check for leaks but if we have to work on we pressure wash, also look at hydro filter most never get changed see if it has hours on it

Another check would be to see how well it tracks in a straight line. Push both handles slowly forward to the stops and see if it goes straight or veers to one side or other. From dead stop with full throttle, push both handles quickly to full speed, engine should load up (stall if not full throttle) and mower should shoot straight ahead after spinning both wheels. Caution o this on grass not on pavement as you might pull a wheelie on hard surfaces.
I would ask if hydro oil has been changed yearly and what kind of oil was used in the motor (my Ferris with Kawasaki engine requires full synthetic ). Raise up the seat and see if the dual cooling fans are turning (one on each HST drive motor).

I have a B&S engine on one of my mowers and it seems to do OK but is much more fuel thirsty than my Kawasaki engine and a bit slower to crank. The Kawa will start on a couple of revolutions with just manual choke whereas the B&S takes some spinning of the engine. That is another thing to look at. My Kawasaki has a manual choke so you don't have to push the throttle past full to get it to choke. It will start at idle. I hate starting up any engine at full throttle which is what I have to do with the B&S because it has no separate choke lever. I think a separate choke cable is an optional accessory and good to have.
Since this is a 2010 mower, the warranty is likely just expiring (3 years on Ferris mowers) which is probably why the seller is selling it