Wheel removal

[picker77]

I see occasional posts referring to "just remove the rear wheel" to gain access to hydraulics and controls for upgrades, etc. I'm not 100% sure this is as easy as it sounds. I have loaded R4's on my 3032E, and I suspect I'm looking at 300 lb plus to manhandle. Exactly what method is commonly used to safely handle removing/replacing a loaded rear wheel? Another tractor with a loader? Shop crane? Burly friends?

 

[Willl]

Another tractor with a loader? Shop crane? Burly friends?

All the above.

As you figured, these things are heavy, if your trying to handle it by yourself and can keep it upright, your cool.

Problem lies if it starts to go beyond what you can handle, it's going over, and it's going to take out what's in it's way.

Shat could go wrong in a real big hurry. Don't be a statistic.

 

[jschimmel]

I usually do this about once a month when i need to fix a flat sometimes twice a week. i use a F350 with a flatbed and a chain hoist.
First of course, get the tractor set up on blocks and jacks. Next get the tire off, sometimes i have to put a pipe on the end of tool to get the bolts off. I use two crowbars to pry the wheel, up and off. this usually take a few minutes and its a little different every time. Sometimes the wheel comes up and off and i couldn't explain how i did it; other times i really have to wedge the crowbars in there. my wheel has holes in it, and i put the crowbar through the holes putting pressure on the axle while wedging the wheel up. it always requires a lot of wedging and pushing one side of the wheel so its at an angle. i have the back of the truck already parked a few feet from the wheel/tire. Then i start wedging the wheel/tire towards the truck while keeping the wheel as upright as possible. if it falls don't try and stop it back away immediately and it will hit the back edge of flatbed on the truck instead of you. I keep wedging the wheel and roll a few inches then wedge at the other angle and roll it a little bit until it is as close as i can get it to the truck. I let the wheel lean on the truck' back edge of the flatbed. Part of the flatbed has a high bar that runs behind the cab of the truck. I hook the chain hoist to that bar and the other end around the inside of the wheel. I back away from the the tire truck and all, put on my gloves, and pull the chain going through the hoist. If something goes wrong i'm out of the way. it takes about a minute to pull the tire/wheel on the back of the truck. it takes about 20 minutes to do the entire process on a jd 2955 1991

 

[mjncad]

If you plan on removing the rear wheels on a semi-regular basis, especially loaded ones that I suspect weigh a lot more than 300-pounds each; then you might want to consider something like this.

OTC 1769A Stinger Truck Dual Wheel Dolly

Northern Industrial Dual Wheel Dolly — 1500-Lb. Capacity, Model# AT0079 | Wheel Dollies | Northern Tool + Equipment

Either one of these will be cheaper than a trip to the hospital.

 

[RoyJackson]

I see occasional posts referring to "just remove the rear wheel" to gain access to hydraulics and controls for upgrades, etc. I'm not 100% sure this is as easy as it sounds. I have loaded R4's on my 3032E, and I suspect I'm looking at 300 lb plus to manhandle. Exactly what method is commonly used to safely handle removing/replacing a loaded rear wheel? Another tractor with a loader? Shop crane? Burly friends?

Jack the tractor (I jack under the drawbar bracket and I strongly suggest using jackstands too!) just enough to clear the floor (1/2" clearance is more then adequate).
When Arrabil and I swapped my rears (41-14-20 turfs), it was about all he could handle (I've got a bad back, so he did the majority of the work). Have at least one buddy to help you...and if you do lose it, get out of the way and let it go!

Those links mjncad provided show some great tools for doing this type of work....prices aren't bad either.

Good luck and be safe!

 

[RickB]

I often remove/replace loaded rears by myself up to 16.9x30 while performing on-site service. I place a 2'x3' sheet of corrugated plastic under the tire to reduce friction while twisting & rolling the assembly away from the axle. The key is to keep the assembly as close to vertical as possible.

I find working alone at this job to be easier than working with someone who is working against you. Like Roy says, if one starts to get away from you, let it go & step clear instantly (I have yet to lose one). Make plenty of room to work with NOTHING to trip over if you have to back away fast.

 

[picker77]

Thanks for the replies. Suspicions confirmed... There is somewhere around 250 lb of liquid (about 25 gal of weak CC solution) in each R4, but I have no idea how much the tire/rim weighed before that, maybe 150 lb or more? So I there's probably at least 400# each to muscle around. On the plus side, this little tractor now feels stable as the Rock of Gibraltar with loaded rears and 400# lb of box blade on the back.

I've never had a rear flat on a tractor (knock on wood). I ran my old Kubota 15 years without one, although I did have one on the front--which was expensive to fix because on that tractor all four tires were CC loaded, and the local Goodyear truck tire place was less than enthusiastic about doing the job, but at least they did it.

I was thinking mainly about the possibility of putting on dual remotes and Power Beyond (I want to add Top 'n Tilt and maybe a bucket thumb one of these days), which according to conventional wisdom requires removing the right rear wheel. However, after hearing what's involved I think if I do that I'll let my friendly but rather expensive JD dealer's shop do the whole thing, and consider the labor charge a bargain compared to a hospital stay.

 

[beenthere]

As long as you keep your wits about you, not a big problem. And as said, if it goes too far..let it go.
I've switched mine (JD 4300 R4's loaded) from side to side, and removed one when adding the 3rd SCV. Was not a major effort as long as the tire stays balanced. And the R4's stand pretty much on their own.

If you have a hoist, all the better. But not necessary. IMO

If you have trouble with strength, or mobility...then the dealer is the best bet.