Wheel Weights

[Jstpssng]

If you do opt for weights I suggest that you look at Everything Attachments. You may get more weights than you need but the extras would be easy to sell or swap. I also wouldn't buy a bolt kit; that's just an overpriced set of carriage bolts, of which I only used 1/2 of them.

 

[Jstpssng]

Here's the link. For some reason it won't allow me to edit my previous post.

https://www.(Temporarily blocked du...ny closure)/Tractor-Wheel-Weights-s/10555.htm

OUCH! They are a lot more pricey than I remember.

I went through my Kubota dealer, but wish I had bought from EA. At the time a TBN member downstate had also expressed an interest, and we could probably have split the cost.

 

[Gee Ray]

Are you carrying any ballast?

 

[ovrszd]

Loaders weren't as common place as they are now.

Back then, having a loader was a luxury. Way more loader tractors now.

That said....I'm sure many soiled pants and oh $hit moments happens back then to when you combine loaders, 2wd, and slopes. But lacking internet.....you didn't hear about it all the time

And older tractor's weight ratio was much heavier on the rear. They were intended to pull ground engagement attachments. Utility grade tractors today carry a much higher weight ratio on the front.

In the Op's case he probably doesn't have fluid in the rears, or wheel weights, so he's very light back there.

I use fluid in the rears plus cast weight. If doing heavy loader work I also carry 12-1300 lbs of ballast on the 3pt.

 

[ovrszd]

The OP's M7060 is the heaviest tractor still considered a compact tractor

An M7060 is a Utility Class tractor. Not a compact. The L series tractors are considered Compact Class.

 

[MossyDell]

Rear weights and loading the rear tires will help with the braking and pulling power of your tractor.

I forgot one time to engage 4WD going down a hill. Not good. Gets your attention.

I've wondered though if the tractor being much heavier from loaded rears, also carrying an implement or rear weights, overpowers the brakes? Mine seem weak as it is.

Edited to add: I am NOT questioning my ballast. Just noting that making the tractor heavier challenges the brakes more. So 4WD is even more vital when descending slopes.

 

[Hermio]

I have loaded rear tires, which adds 1300# per tire. Still not enough to make the tractor behave well in 2WD on hills with no rear attachment. Even with a rear attachment, it sometimes gets stuck in mud or when trying to back up. So, I use 4WD whenever I will be on any slope or in muddy conditions. My loader is a 4-way type, so the bucket alone weighs about 1000#.

 

[ForestGrump]

My tractor is a 4x4 Hahindra eMax 22. I primarily plow snow but with no weights and chained on all 4. I have a soft cab, rear facing camera, rear light bar, top front facing LED lamps, a rear scrapper blade that can be angled by the 2,000# linear actuator. We can get snows from 5 to 7 feet and huge icy berms both of which are no problem. 20 degree grades are common. I only use the break to stop at stop signs.

 

[LD1]

I have loaded rear tires, which adds 1300# per tire. Still not enough to make the tractor behave well in 2WD on hills with no rear attachment. Even with a rear attachment, it sometimes gets stuck in mud or when trying to back up. So, I use 4WD whenever I will be on any slope or in muddy conditions. My loader is a 4-way type, so the bucket alone weighs about 1000#.

You either have a huge tractor not listed in your profile or you "loaded" tires are loaded with lead.

Im betting you have 1300# TOTAL, not "per tire"

 

[Hermio]

Mahindra 5035HST. The dealer told me it was 1300# per tire. I specifically asked that. Rimguard is 10.7-11 lb/gallon, so that works out to 120 gallons or so per tire. Rear tire size is 16.9x24. Since that seems a bit much to fit into the tire, I decided to look it up on the Rimguard site. Lo and behold, you are correct. It works out to about 1300# combined for both tires. In any case, it is still squirrely with no rear implement in 2WD.