where do you hook up skidding tongs ?
- Thread starter spikeland
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inveresk
Platinum Member
The arch I used was a home made job that I borrowed off someone here on the island. I've sketched the geometry of it which is attached. It's made from car wheels and some bent rhs, with the triangular frame in front made of 2 x 4" lumber, a simple device but very effective.
When the arch is offered over the log, lifting the front of the A frame vertically lowers the metal arch so it can be chain secured to the top of the log. Pulling down on the front of the A frame then raises the arch and so the log. I found that the best position for the arch was somewhere just in front of the centre point on the log so most of the weight was supported on the arch and wasn't being trailed.
When the arch is offered over the log, lifting the front of the A frame vertically lowers the metal arch so it can be chain secured to the top of the log. Pulling down on the front of the A frame then raises the arch and so the log. I found that the best position for the arch was somewhere just in front of the centre point on the log so most of the weight was supported on the arch and wasn't being trailed.
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inveresk
Platinum Member
The guy who loaned it to me was a horse logger. I found that with the logging arch, we could get logs out from areas where the tractor couldn't go. Because most of the weight of the log is on the arch, two of us could use a come along to pull logs to where the logging arch could be wheeled then handball the logging arch with the log slung on it to a location where the tractor might be. This minimised the amount of tractor trails we needed to build in the woodland and also minimised the environmental impact of the logging.
beenthere
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I've been skidding with the 3pt for many years, and while there is a danger, it (IMO) is not one of limiting nature if you keep your wits and do not go 'fast'. Low gear, steady pull, watching for any lifting of the front end, where the rear wheels want to walk out from under the tractor. Then stopping, and/or lowering the 3pt arms, will keep you out of trouble. The backward 'flip' of the tractor is not sudden. It takes enough time to react.
I now hook the logging tongs to the top iMatch (3pt quick hitch) and it works extremely well to pick up the front end of the log while dragging the tail end. No digging in, and plenty of weight on the rear wheels for traction.
Pic of doing it with my present setup.
I now hook the logging tongs to the top iMatch (3pt quick hitch) and it works extremely well to pick up the front end of the log while dragging the tail end. No digging in, and plenty of weight on the rear wheels for traction.
Pic of doing it with my present setup.
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beenthere
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Here is a big white oak log that was pulled up hill out of my woods with the iMatch and tongs, and without chains. There was some slippage with the R4's, that I didn't used to get with my 2cyl 420 Deere that had R1's. This log will go into firewood (burns great after split and two years drying).
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jdavis3099
New member
You may wish to consider a FARMI skidding winch, http://www.northeastimplement.com/index.htm. Another option might be a modification of an ATV log skidder I had fabricated. It consist of a piece of 1/4 steel, say 2x3 feet, with a bend at about 2/3 of the length with a lip on the short end. The log is strapped to the lip on the short end and the long end attached with a chain to the ATV or tractor. With forward motion the front end drops, the rear rises and the log skids along. It is simple, works well with an ATV and should work with a tractor.
RonMar
Elite Member
I have pulled many logs both from the front and the rear. The hazards with using the FEL up front is encountered when you lift the FEL. If the pull is even slightly off center, this can easilly pull a tractor over or at the very least lift the rear wheels off the ground. I prefer not to use it to pull logs. When I do use it, my prefered method is to drive the blade edge of the FEL under the end of the log and get the end all the way into the bucket. I lift the end of the log slightly and attach the chain about a foot past the bucket edge. The chain that I attach to the log is run under the bucket and up the back side and attached to the top of the bucket. The pull angle is kept below the axle(way below) and you only need raise the bucket far enough to clear the ground you are backing over. Since the end of the log is in the bucket it dosn't hang up on anything.
When using the rear, I always attach the drag chain to the drawbar. I have seen log booms with tongs attached used to lift the front of the log for dragging. You could also use a 3PH boom to lift the front of the log for easier dragging but in my opinion, this by itself is not safe for the same reason fulling something with the FEL lifted is not safe. I would not do it this way alone for the flip over reasons mentioned. I think I read in the saftey forum a few months back of a man and his son being killed while pulling a stump with the chain attached to the toplink. Using the 3PH to lift the front of the log for easier/less damage dragging can be made safe by attaching a drag chain(without slack) from the front of the log to the drawbar, so any pull force from the log if it hangs up on something will be applied to the drawbar well below the axel.
When using the rear, I always attach the drag chain to the drawbar. I have seen log booms with tongs attached used to lift the front of the log for dragging. You could also use a 3PH boom to lift the front of the log for easier dragging but in my opinion, this by itself is not safe for the same reason fulling something with the FEL lifted is not safe. I would not do it this way alone for the flip over reasons mentioned. I think I read in the saftey forum a few months back of a man and his son being killed while pulling a stump with the chain attached to the toplink. Using the 3PH to lift the front of the log for easier/less damage dragging can be made safe by attaching a drag chain(without slack) from the front of the log to the drawbar, so any pull force from the log if it hangs up on something will be applied to the drawbar well below the axel.
beenthere
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If I did more work in the woods than a few years' worth of firewood for myself, a farmi winch would be great. I have worked with them and run one for a neighbor.
However, when I want to cut a tree, and pull out the logs and tops, it is just too simple to drop off the ballast box from the iMatch, toss the logging tongs on the iMatch hook and head for the woods. Now that I have the chainsaw scabbard (thanks to an idea of a TBN member) to carry the chainsaw along, it is just that much handier and quicker to drag in the logs.
I don't want the hassle of hooking up a farmi winch each time I go 'logging' for firewood. They are a great piece of equipment, but not something I feel I need.
The rig you speak of is probably a good idea but I have never found a need to use it, as the 3pt method works well to keep the end of the log up and to keep the front end down quite well (and with the FEL has never been even an inkling of a problem, and with this tractor and FEL combination, I've never had to use the steering brakes to steer the tractor so the front end isn't 'too' light).
Appreciate your suggestion, but it won't happen. Works too well this way. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
However, when I want to cut a tree, and pull out the logs and tops, it is just too simple to drop off the ballast box from the iMatch, toss the logging tongs on the iMatch hook and head for the woods. Now that I have the chainsaw scabbard (thanks to an idea of a TBN member) to carry the chainsaw along, it is just that much handier and quicker to drag in the logs.
I don't want the hassle of hooking up a farmi winch each time I go 'logging' for firewood. They are a great piece of equipment, but not something I feel I need.
The rig you speak of is probably a good idea but I have never found a need to use it, as the 3pt method works well to keep the end of the log up and to keep the front end down quite well (and with the FEL has never been even an inkling of a problem, and with this tractor and FEL combination, I've never had to use the steering brakes to steer the tractor so the front end isn't 'too' light).
Appreciate your suggestion, but it won't happen. Works too well this way. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Slamfire
Veteran Member
Well I gave up on the tongs, using a hook like George's but hooked directly to the 3ph drawbar. Then a 6" chain with a choker hook on one end it wrapped around the log butt and hooked up short to the hook on the drawbar. When I drive off the log lifts a little bit gettin' it off the ground. When I hooked up high, the front of my little Mitsu comes up too easily. I use stabilizer bars to hold the drawbar down low. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif