Which tractor for 40 acre homestead

[David72645]

I'm not getting two tractors, at least not right now, understanding that one might not do all the jobs I want done. Yes budget is an issue, that's why I'm getting used, not new. Would like a big tractor but there also may be access considerations; getting between trees or into pass-through duck coop for cleaning. I don't live there yet, but will need fencing up first. Rather than hiring fence contractor, tractor may let me do some of that job myself. Animal quarters won't be built for a year. I'll have to build them with the tractor I end up with in mind. Does everyone agree that I should get an Mx rather than an L; It does not sound like it. If I got an L, would there be any reason to get a smaller one? I think B is too small. Maybe I just need to get something, so I'll have a reference point, then expect to trade up or down from there. If I get a bunch of implements, does it make trading to a different PTO size more costly?

 

[DieselBound]

I'm older now, and a LOT wiser than I was when I got my 40 acres. Not all property is equal, for sure, so what any particular individual is facing, and thus tractor requirements, is going to vary widely.

I did tons of work with my B7800 Kubota. I could probably make this tractor operate to full potential as well as anyone could get any tractor to operate to full potential. I've put about 1,000 hrs on it. Not sure if there's much that I haven't done with it. Anyway...

I had "grand plans" in the beginning. Problem is, when you can't see your property, as mine was covered in brush, you really don't know what you're facing. A smaller tractor works well for "exploring." And, which is almost certain to happen, when you get it stuck it's a LOT easier to get unstuck than a larger tractor. And for "real" fun get an excavator stuck and then try to get it unstuck!

You will ALWAYS find a need to have more/bigger power. Don't buy for it. Rent! (I've rented skid steers and excavators- specialized tools for special jobs.)

You state, and I think that it's smart thinking, "Maybe I just need to get something, so I'll have a reference point." This is a sane way to approach things.

Bucket teeth and ballast in the rear tires were the best things I ever did for my B7800. Life would have been WAY better had I started out with them.

Breaking stuff on a larger piece of equipment can be quite a bit more costly: maintenance too- I have a LOT more hydraulic fluid to change in my Kioti and in my Kubota. I've been pretty lucky that in the 400 hrs I've got on my Kioti that I've "only" managed to bust one loader bucket cylinder. (surprisingly, the repair cost was about the same for a new loader arm cylinder on my Kubota)

 

[Egon]

If a post hole auger is used the sizing must be tall enough to allow clearance with the ground. The B tractors will likely be to large. Perhaps look at some used agricultural tractors that fit the price range and will be larger??

 

[jeff9366]

Maybe I just need to get something, so I'll have a reference point, then expect to trade up or down from there.
If I get a bunch of implements, does it make trading to a different PTO size more costly?

Compact tractors all have a single rear PTO size, revolving at 540 rpm.

"Big Ag" tractors have larger rear PTOs, revolving at 1,000 rpm.



New compact tractors, from 1,700 to 3,600 pounds bare tractor weight have a Category I size Three Point Hitch.

New compact tractors from 3,800 pounds to 6,000 pounds bare tractor have a Category II size Three Point Hitch.

The manufacturers decide which Three Point Hitch will go on a given tractor so there is some variation around 4,000 pounds bare tractor weight, some having a Category I hitch, some Category II.


Category I implements can be used on a Category II Three Point Hitch by adding readily available shims to the Category I hitch pins, to fatten them up. Multiple shims to fatten pins to fit Category II Three Point Hitch < $10 total.

Quite often Category I implements are not wide enough to cover the rear tire width of Category II tractors. There are exceptions. Few tolerate tire imprints in a field.

Light Category I implements pulled imprudently behind a heavy, powerful Category II hitch tractor can be pulled apart at the welds or bent if snagged.

Selling a used tractor is easy. Selling multiple light implements in order to buy heavier, wider implements for a new, heavier tractor requires a lot of time. Depreciation on implements is generally greater than depreciation on a tractor. (Ask me how I know.)

DIMENSIONS: TractorData.com - Three-Point Hitch

 

[jeff9366]

First, I'm new to tractors.
I'm moving to 60 acres in Arkansas.

Plan to reclaim 20 acres to forest pasture mix. Will not be much farming, per se. Chipping and logging will be to create trails and clearings.

Is there a consensus that I should get an MX rather than an L? It does not sound like it.
If I got an L, would there be any reason to get a smaller one? I think B is too small.

The fundamental importance of TRACTOR WEIGHT eludes many tractor shoppers. Bare tractor weight is a tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites, readily comparable across tractor brands and tractor models, new and used.

Tractor weight will help keep you safe as you learn how to operate an unstable tractor with small front wheels, large rear wheels and loads you cannot imagine until you are operating.

I recommend a compact tractor with a bare weight of 3,700 pounds to 4,500 pounds. There are many good tractor brands out there. Kubota is perhaps the best built today but you pay a 20% premium for the quality. I feel the premium is worth paying. Others differ. Kubota has ~~50%~~ market share in compact tractors. All the other brands you read about here compete for the other 50%. That said, I have shopped Kioti and LS tractor brands from Korea and I will give these brands serious consideration if I buy a third new tractor.

VIDEO: Kubota Standard L-Series. L251 L331 L391 L471 features and operation. - YouTube

 

[sd455dan]

I added my location. Thanks

WHOOPS... this thread popped up as new and read the whole thing before I realized it was 5 years old..



Since you are looking for a tractor for 60 acres? on a budget ,

the tractor like the OP ended up with would work well for you also (3930 Ford MFWD.)



Ford built a Strong capable tractor in the 3930.


If money is not a big deal one of the M series Kubota's would be Real Nice. with 60 acres to take care of

 

[Molalla1]

I have 80 acres. A mile long gravel road, snow, logs & rocks to move, private landfill to maintain....... I did all the work, in the beginning, with a 26hp Ford 1700 4WD. Twenty seven years later, 2009, I traded the Ford in and got a Kubota M6040. Everything goes quicker and I can now move logs & rocks the size I want. I can actually move large logs now - I don't have to move them as firewood.

The M6040 is big enough to handle a really heavy duty grapple and very heavy duty rear blade. I'm FINALLY rid of the 3-point snow blower. I CAN now do summer maintenance on my driveway after it dries and turns to concrete.

Life is good.

:thumbsup: . . . . can't get better than that . . .

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

Got a ton done over the weekend. While I worked away outside, the old women were busy clucking and gossiping inside having their quilting bee and tending their knitting. Fun was had on all sides I guess.

Got my ditches mowed, dropped a couple of trees that the utility company topped. Got them cut, split and stacked so they can dry out for next summer's camp fires. Burned the small stuff in a pile, and the neighbor wants the ashes for his garden, so I'll probably take them over this week sometime.

Grateful to have some good weather, and for the ground to finally be dry and hard enough I could drive across the lawn. Good weekend tractoring, beats sitting inside listening to old women whining and gossiping all weekend.

David,

20 acres is a lot to clear. If this is "one and done", consider hiring it out. A couple of guys with an excavator and a logging tractor or heavy skidder could make short work of that 20 acres. Are you wanting/needing the firewood? Maybe see if a lumber co would be interested in buying it all and clearing cutting it.

Or if time is not urgent, take it a piece at a time. A chainsaw, a gas fired splitter and a tractor with FEL can do it, but it will take a while.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

I'm not getting two tractors, at least not right now, understanding that one might not do all the jobs I want done. Yes budget is an issue, that's why I'm getting used, not new. Would like a big tractor but there also may be access considerations; getting between trees or into pass-through duck coop for cleaning. I don't live there yet, but will need fencing up first. Rather than hiring fence contractor, tractor may let me do some of that job myself. Animal quarters won't be built for a year. I'll have to build them with the tractor I end up with in mind. Does everyone agree that I should get an Mx rather than an L; It does not sound like it. If I got an L, would there be any reason to get a smaller one? I think B is too small. Maybe I just need to get something, so I'll have a reference point, then expect to trade up or down from there. If I get a bunch of implements, does it make trading to a different PTO size more costly?

Most of the work can still be done with a "small" (relative) tractor. It will just take more time. Digging out stumps however, that just takes brute force. Maybe rent the equipment for that, or hire it out. But putting up fence, you don't need a "big" tractor for that. I personally wouldn't have gone any smaller in tractor than the one I have, unless I had 2 separate tractors. There are some things a small (think 2400H) would still be handy for here. But I can get pretty much everywhere I need to with the one I have. It weighs 7100 lbs with the FEL and box blade on it, and I can pick up round bales with it. I did have to wait longer for the lawn area to dry out and harden up, so I could drive on it to get some trees down. But my buddy's JD 1025 sized tractor would have no problem going over the same ground and not leaving ruts.

I don't drive mine across the actual "lawn" area much at all, just every once in a while, but it's something I have to consider before I do.

 

[David72645]

Probably don't want the fire wood. Its 6" pine. I want a combination of woods and pasture with a lot of "edge". I doubt a logging company would be interested. Some of the 20 acres is already clear. It would be cleaning up the glades and throughways at first. We don't know yet how many sheep the land can support as it is now, but as we improve the pasture with seeding and rotational grazing fencing, it should support more.

I started a separate thread about fencing: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/413285-fencing-60-acres.html