Won't stay running John Deere Z997 ZTR Mower Year 2008

[feoneill9]

Spanner: After your help, none of your words are rude to me. They come from the voice of experience. Not much of which I have.

I will accept that the fuel issue as an operator issue, my fault entirely and do apologize to John Deere and their organization, employees and dealers and their employees.

I have purchased a brand new unused 5 gallon yellow diesel plastic container and have put 5 gallons of non bio diesel in it. The start on good fuel management.

I plan to put it in the unit and start it up to see the self bleeding feature. After I install the rubber gromlet first and then the pick up tube and then the fuel line and then turn the ignition on.

Again thanks for you help and everyone who contributed.

I will report soonest.

 

[Spanner]

:thumbsup:

:wrench:

 

[feoneill9]

Hi:
New problem. How do you install the hydraulic Solenoid valve to control the deck lift. It is also called a spool valve.

Do you have to take the rear tire off, raised the deck up , take off both hoses, removed the valve .

How do you stop the hydraulic fluid from leaking out when the hoses are off and the valve is removed?

Thanks
Frank

 

[Spanner]

Hi:
New problem. How do you install the hydraulic Solenoid valve to control the deck lift. It is also called a spool valve.

Do you have to take the rear tire off, raised the deck up , take off both hoses, removed the valve .

How do you stop the hydraulic fluid from leaking out when the hoses are off and the valve is removed?

Thanks
Frank

Whoa!
What diagnostic has determined your need to replace the solenoid??
:wrench:

 

[feoneill9]

Hi Spanner:
Did it the scientific way with a multi meter. Power to the wires connected to the solenoid, but no action from the solenoid. Waited a day and checked it. But now no power in the wires. Unraveled the loom and checked the wire and found that it had a chaff in it! Repaired the short with a butt connector, taped it, put it back in the loom and the solenoid opened and the hydraulic lift deck now lifts. Have to love this John Deere tractor, so giving.

 

[Spanner]

Hi Frank,
Right... So your call about replacing the hydraulic valve was erroneous.
The circuit for the solenoid is a loop - Power goes in one wire and out the other. Only one pin of the plug will show voltage when the PTO switch is operated. The other pin is the return to earth (ground) Probing both pins of the loom plug will show +12V or -12V depending on which way you have the probes/pins orientated.
Or Probing each pin individually with the multimeter connected to chassis ground will show voltage on only one pin. That you found a shorting chaffed wire is good. But I'm mystified as to how you decided to look for it.

That you say: "Power to the wires connected to the solenoid, but no action from the solenoid. Waited a day and checked it. But now no power in the wires. Unraveled the loom and checked the wire and found that it had a chaff in it! Repaired the short with a butt connector, taped it, put it back in the loom and the solenoid opened and the hydraulic lift deck now lifts."

doesn't make sense.

You had "Power to the wires connected to the solenoid," but the solenoid didn't work...
You then had "no power in the wires" but found a shorted wire (No fuse blown?) which you repaired so now you will have power to the wires... and the solenoid works correctly opening the valve... etc. But you had power to the wires etc. before (?) :confused3:

I still think the combination of you and cheap multimeters is something we need to be wary of. BUT at least you're back mowing with a deck that goes up & down. That's good news! :thumbsup:
:wrench:

 

[CBPOWERMAN]

Yes, I would like to do what Elvis did to his 72 Pantera after he had a fight with his girlfriend and it would not start. He pumped 3 bullets into it.

I have too much in this to do that and I need to get it running. A tropical storm is going over us for the next 3 days so I can't work on it. Its outside cover in tarps.

The JD dealer had one they are working on 2008 z997 with a diesel. Same problem. They fixed it with new switche sand when the customer came to pay for it, It would not stay running. They are replacing the seat time delay module. I replaced mind and something good happened. Even though my seat switch is by passed -- therefore it should have no affect on the SDM---the parking brake release works and the unit will continue running. The movement of the levers still causes it to stall.

The PB has three wires on it. A purple, yellow and pink. They go into the loom and were they come out is left for another day to find out. The lever switches have 5 wires in them, 2 purple and three pink. Were they go I don't know.

I am again checking the relays to make sure I tested them correctly 2 weeks ago.

Thanks for the encouragement.

OK, Check your fuel lines going into the tank, there is a screen on the end of the line that pickup fuel. If your 997 is shutting off after running for 10 / 15 min.

 

[Spanner]

OK, Check your fuel lines going into the tank, there is a screen on the end of the line that pickup fuel. If your 997 is shutting off after running for 10 / 15 min.

I'd rule that out purely because it runs for any length of time until he moves a control lever apparently. Then it cuts out.

From this:
"the parking brake release works and the unit will continue running. The movement of the levers still causes it to stall."

Tell me if I am understanding (READ CAREFULLY) the following:

I read it as: The engine runs when the Parking Brake is engaged? That is correct operation.

Now we know your seat switch is bypassed? That is a shame because it is a useful point in the diagnostic chain. Please re-install the connector...

So you release the Park Brake... With the seat switch bypassed the machine 'thinks' there is someone on the seat... So you release the PB and the engine stays running?

That is correct for 2 scenarios -

1. The machine is 'happy' that there is 'someone' on the seat.

And

2. The Park Brake switch is still activated/stuck/faulty and the machine still 'thinks' the PB is still engaged. Whether there is someone on the seat or not. (See why you want your seat switch involved?)

However. Normally, when you move the control levers inwards from 'wide-apart' with the Park Brake still engaged the engine should cutout - - - Which, in your case, it does!

To 'prove' the PB switch you need the Seat Switch to be working (Not bypassed) so that if you release the PB with no weight on the seat the engine should not keep going.

BUT yours does - Possibly because the PB switch is remaining in the engaged position or your wires are crossed.

Follow?

And then- if you have a properly functioning seat switch, If you release the PB and you have some weight on the seat AND the engine stays running you know (having 'proved' the PB switch as above) you have a correctly functioning seat switch and if the engine cut's out when you next move the control levers your fault is in that circuit (CL's)