Yanmar ym2000 no start

[ponytug]

Thanks for all the replies. My thermostat is working and was just replaced by the previous owner. I haven’t done any compression test so I don’t know for sure that it has perfect compression but when I was taking the injector out I turned the engine over to push it out and it just about shot out of the head so I assumed compression wasn’t an issue. But I will still do a real compression test to make sure it’s good. Also since I’ve had engines with very low compression I know that even with low compression an engine will still at least fire a small amount and I haven’t even gotten that out of the tractor. As for the smoke out of the exhaust I would say it’s a little on the grey side rather than white but I guess it still could be vapor. I check the radiator and I don’t see any oil in the coolant and it looks pretty clean. Could valves be an issue?

Just to clarify; Yanmars use a thermostart (with an R) to preheat the air intake. I think that is what @jaxs was referring to. (Autocorrect can be a pain sometimes...) The link that @jaxs posted will explain it in detail. Are you following the manual on how to start the engine? Yanmars have a specific routine.

White smoke is cold, unburnt diesel (bad injector, blown rings or head gasket), or a coolant leak into the cylinders. The fact it won't light off on any cylinder makes me suspect either it's cold (no thermostart in use), or something worse like a head gasket, as none of the cylinders are catching.

All the best,

Peter

 

[clemsonfor]

Just to clarify; Yanmars use a thermostart (with an R) to preheat the air intake. I think that is what @jaxs was referring to. (Autocorrect can be a pain sometimes...) The link that @jaxs posted will explain it in detail. Are you following the manual on how to start the engine? Yanmars have a specific routine.

White smoke is cold, unburnt diesel (bad injector, blown rings or head gasket), or a coolant leak into the cylinders. The fact it won't light off on any cylinder makes me suspect either it's cold (no thermostart in use), or something worse like a head gasket, as none of the cylinders are catching.

All the best,

Peter

I don't know if much of the lower 48 has been cold enough recently where a healthy diesel won't light off and catch without thermostart? Maybe if he was trying first thing in the morning on certain days in the upper portions of the country maybe?

 

[careyo63]

White smoke starting is unburned fuel. If your pour diesel into coals in a fire it will put out white smoke. The black smoke when one is under heavy load is raw unburned fuel basically being blown out of the exhaust.

Never get any white smoke! Cold or hot use the Thermal or not. BLK. as can be from the first hit until it clears the unburnt fuel. I always use the Decompression. So when you do that and wait for the Oil light to go out your loading up the Cylinder with fuel. Or should be and get Blk smoke from it. Never gets white and no coolant problems. Temp. sender Yrs. ago about it. Average a count to 6-8 before the Oil pressure light goes out. I can honestly say I've never cold started it until the oil light goes out and pressure is up. Still runs the same as always. Org. and you seen and heard it!!

 

[ponytug]

Never get any white smoke! Cold or hot use the Thermal or not. BLK. as can be from the first hit until it clears the unburnt fuel. I always use the Decompression. So when you do that and wait for the Oil light to go out your loading up the Cylinder with fuel. Or should be and get Blk smoke from it. Never gets white and no coolant problems. Temp. sender Yrs. ago about it. Average a count to 6-8 before the Oil pressure light goes out. I can honestly say I've never cold started it until the oil light goes out and pressure is up. Still runs the same as always. Org. and you seen and heard it!!

The OP doesn't list his location...

 

[clemsonfor]

Never get any white smoke! Cold or hot use the Thermal or not. BLK. as can be from the first hit until it clears the unburnt fuel. I always use the Decompression. So when you do that and wait for the Oil light to go out your loading up the Cylinder with fuel. Or should be and get Blk smoke from it. Never gets white and no coolant problems. Temp. sender Yrs. ago about it. Average a count to 6-8 before the Oil pressure light goes out. I can honestly say I've never cold started it until the oil light goes out and pressure is up. Still runs the same as always. Org. and you seen and heard it!!

I don't either but it is white. I'm around enough old ratty logging equipment and heavy equipment and trucks to see it.

 

[thepumpguysc]

If u can gain access to the inj. pump while it’s still in the engine, do that and make sure the control rack is moving left and right..
I’m assuming it’s a “PFR” pump.?? Also know as a “cassette” pump..

 

[James russell]

I already attempted to pull the injection pump and it came about half way would and wouldn’t move anymore. I couldn’t find much info on how to remove them so I just went for it which I’m sure I was wrong to do. Anyway since I couldn’t get it all the way out to inspect it I just put it back in and cranked the tractor over and fuel was still coming out of the pump like normal so I figured it was fine.

 

[bmaverick]

I already attempted to pull the injection pump and it came about half way would and wouldn’t move anymore. I couldn’t find much info on how to remove them so I just went for it which I’m sure I was wrong to do. Anyway since I couldn’t get it all the way out to inspect it I just put it back in and cranked the tractor over and fuel was still coming out of the pump like normal so I figured it was fine.

There is an injection fuel pump service manual for the YM machines located on the YTOG.

DO NOT disassembly the fuel pump just yet. It may seem simple, yet there are tricks to it inside with those plungers.

Before tearing into the fuel pump, it's best to consult with Mike @thepumpguysc

Mike the pump guy - Master Injection Pump Rebuilder
For Japan made tractors, namely many of the brands including Yanmar for fuel pumps and hydraulic pumps.
Mike can be reached on our message board from time-to-time, The best way is via email he typical monitors very often at:
thepumpguyscATaol.com
(Replace the AT with the @ symbol when emailing please)
- Mike has 35+ years in the industry with injection pumps and hydraulic systems.
- He is very well versed in the JIS and SAE standards for parts to ensure proper components are used for rebuilds.
- From Sunny South Carolina.
- When sending parts via mail, please be sure to have insurance for a bit more than what you can find it new due to carrier issues that 'could' happen.
There are many positive testimonies on many of the Industrial Equipment, Heavy Equipment, diesel boating, tractor and other forums on his work and professionalism.
Shout out to The Pump Guy | Heavy Equipment Forums
(2) Thepumpguysc rocks - TractorByNet
Timing fuel injection pump - Yesterday's Tractors (yesterdaystractors.com)
Ford 3600 leaking from where fuel inlet meets injector | My Tractor Forum
The Pump Guy - Yesterday's Tractors (yesterdaystractors.com)

 

[thepumpguysc]

There should be a cut out in the engine block to allow the control rack pin on the pump to pass.. otherwise it’ll come up about an inch and stop..
The cut out is very close to shut off.. you can use the throttle to move the pump rack..
A lot of times, when the pump is forced, u end up bending the control rack and it sticks or is stuck..
THATS WHY I wanted you to gain access to the side of the pump.. TO SEE if the rack is moving with the engine throttle..

 

[James russell]

So I pulled the valve cover to make sure everything looked ok and make sure none were stuck. I cranked the engine over and white/gray smoke came out from under the head. I’m guessing I will at least need piston rings. But before I start tearing into it would it be worth checking valve clearance? I don’t know if it’s possible for valves out of adjustment to cause that issue.