Ym2000 meets LW6 backhoe

[capt1989]

Captain, I have a bunch of questions.

How does that [Jinma] LW6 hoe work on that tractor? Does it dig ok, drag the tractor all around, operate smoothly and without breaking down? Does it seem too heavy to drive around with? What's its practical, productive depth?

Did you get the fenders back on?

That's a great idea to strain biofuel through a vacuum cleaner bag. How is that working out long term? I bought a 20 gallon batch of refined (supposedly) restaurant grease and it seemed to make the YM240 harder and harder to start when I ran it B100. What's your experience?

I keep looking at HF's current version of your welder, now model 180. What do you think about these, are they worth ~ $260 when they go on sale? Did you use FC or gas for that project?

And thanks for posting that excellent description of your project!

California,

First I want to apologize for not getting back to you sooner. I haven't checked this post since Feb. 2012. Hope the questions are still relevant.
1. It works and digs fine and I enjoy the stick time.
2. It is a very strong backhoe and can drag the tractor around with no problem while operating.
3. If you try to work fast the controls are jerky. A more methodical and controlled approach will smooth it out. I did break the band poles that connect the ram to the bucket while trying to pry out a stump and another time bent a ram trying to do the same thing. Power is not an issue for mine. All major breakages have been the fault of the operator and not the equipment. It did eventually blow a cylinder seal and I was unable to find seals for it and had to buy a different cylinder to mount. I bought 2 in case/for when it happens again. These have seals I can replace if necessary. 100 bucks a piece on Ebay.
4. It is heavy. I put it as close to the 3 pt. as I could get it to try to balance the weight but it is light on the front end. Not dangerously so, but it feels like it has power steering when it is attached. Steers real easy.
5. Digs a little more than 5 feet deep.
6. No. I kept the fenders off. It was easier for me. I could fabricate some brackets....
7. I still run vegetable oil when I can get it. Usually around Thanksgiving or when we fry up some vittles and I have it. I just strain it and pour it in with the diesel. My tractor pretty much starts the same way with it or not.
8. The welder I bought was a refurbished model and was around 179.00 or so. VERY HAPPY WITH IT!! It is still performing great and I used it to fix my front axle in a post several months ago when it buckled while bush hogging the back property. Your experience may vary but i could not be more satisfied with the performance with this welder. I used flux core .035 for this job.

capt.

 

[capt1989]

WHat Loader do you have on your tractor? Mine looks very similar save for it says A1 where yours says V2.

Also interested in installing a back hoe. Is yours Hydro drive or PTO driven? Also did your sub-frame build impair your 3PH use?

I have a YM1700 with front loader I am interested in outfitting with a BH

bgiles117,

First I want to apologize for not getting back to you sooner. I haven't checked this post since Feb. 2012. Hope the questions are still relevant.

1. The loader is a VTEK that was purchased in Mesquite, Texas at VN Tractors. That's all I really know about it. It has been a good loader as I have not exactly been kind to it.
2. While the subframe is on the tractor the 3 pt holds the hydraulic pump in place. When it is off the tractor the 3 pt. works normally.

capt.

 

[capt1989]

Captain, good looking mount, every bit as strong as the mount on a my jd970 for the #8backhoe. One concern though. I notice you have attached to the cross brace on your rear FEL mount. This mount is bolted to the bell housing with 4 bolts. Having had a bad experience on my YM 3000, ( sold it last year ) you might want to extend the brace to the frame mounts on either side of the engine. Reason is, the bell housing is used for the frame on these, and where your front mount is just puts more of a load on what could be the weak joint between the bell housing and the motor block. Behind the flywheel there are 8 or so 12mm bolts holding the flywheel to the bell housing. When changing my clutch I found 4 or so broken with the bolt heads half ground off by the back side of the flywheel rotating. Biggest load I ever had on that tractor was a 5' brush hog. My JD950 ran a 5' flail mower for most of it's life and had the brace added between the bell housing and the engine block long ago for that same problem. On this forum there have been other posts relating to this problem, I for one, have had this problem as well. That backhoe is going to produce much more stress at that joint. If you extended the front of the frame to either side of the engine block you would remove the load from that joint. If you were to tie into the bolt pattern that attaches either side of the block to the frame of the tractor with a little longer bolts, much of the stress would be taken from that joint. If you had room to use more of that 4" channel, it couldn't get stronger. Nice fab work, hope it works out in the long run.
Chris

Hey Chris,

Thank you very much for that information man. I will check into this when I get off the boat in mid April. I have been pretty hard on the equipment so I will give a good visual inspection when I get home. I need to replace the pin in my transaxle lock so that will be a good time to check it all out. Thanks again!

capt.

 

[chriswheeler]

I guess the bellhousing problem isn't that uncommon. When Sacramento Tractor was in the business of selling grays, they had several in their bone yard for parts in a cage outside. Several had broken bellhousings, and were split for parts. Years later working on my YM3000, finding the broken bolts, I found out why. One of the weak points on that YM design was using the bellhousing as the frame. Be darn sure if you ever split this thing for a clutch, that you remove the bolts holding the flywheel to the crank shaft and re-torque the bolts holding the bellhousing to the motor. Could have been engineered a little stronger with thicker cast iron or more/larger bolts.
Chris