YM220 Project - Will not start

[trippn4re]

I recently acquired a YM220. The back story: someone’s grandmother used the tractor until about 10 or so years ago. As with everything, it ran until she stopped using it that day. No one knows why she didn’t use it after that day. She had used it for years to work her garden. She recently died. She was 90 something. So, she was in her 80s when she stopped using the tractor.

The exhaust pipe goes straight up and there is not a flapper or anything covering the top – No idea how long there has been nothing covering that exhaust pipe. Things to note:

• The oil looks good - No water mixing, correct level, clean, but used (not just replaced).
• Antifreeze looks good – Radiator is full of green liquid

I got the tractor at the right price because it was locked up. Junk man had it and was going to take it to the crusher if nobody wanted it. I pulled the injectors and put about ½ cup of TransTone (a mixture of half Transmission Fluid, half Acetone) in each cylinder. I also poured a healthy amount in the exhaust pipe. For several weeks, every time I passed the tractor, I tapped on the block using a 3 pound hammer and a 2x4 block. Once a week, I engaged the starter. I was able to free up the engine using this technique. Lot of yuck came out the holes the injectors go in. This might have been a mistake on this engine, but I’ve done it 3 times previously and those engines have provided years of service since being freed up.

I drained the fuel tank, cleaned the fuel filter housing and replaced the fuel filter. Primed the filter and had fuel at the injector pump. However, no fuel at injectors. I removed the pump and disassembled. The rack was frozen and required persuasion to get rack pin in the correct position to remove the pump. There was rust and crud in all 3 Delivery Valve Springs and the all 3 Plunger Springs. 2 of the Delivery Valves were stuck in the Delivery Valve Seats. Everything was cleaned, freed up and reassembled. During this process, I did not remove the Rack. To my knowledge everything is assembled correctly. The pump now pumps fuel. BUT, I need to know what the Gaskets and Packing look like.

Item 5 in Yanmar Service Manual Diesel Engine (Fuel Oil Injection Device) Model 2TR-2T-3T Series Fuel Pump diagram (Page 3) is labeled as Delivery Valve Gasket. Can someone describe this? My pump only has a Delivery Valve and a Delivery Valve Seat. There is nothing between the two.

Item 7 in the same manual / diagram is labeled Packing for Plunger Barrel. There is nothing that I would consider “Packing” in my pump. Perhaps it was part of the crud that I cleaned out? What I have at that location is a thin copper washer.

Next up, I am now getting fuel to the injectors, but they were not squirting fuel. I disassembled them. There was rust, grim, general crud – LOTS OF IT! Disassembled and cleaned. 2 injector nozzles had to be replaced. I never could get one to free up. One would seem to be free, but when reassembled, didn’t work. Upon disassembly (again) it was stuck. After cleaning everything and replacing the 2 injector nozzles, all 3 injectors are now firing. This was confirmed by hooking up the lines with the injector facing out. Spray patterns look good to me.

Everything is now reassembled. BUT, the engine will not start. It turns over, I’m getting white smoke from all 3 exhaust ports.

Not sure where to go from here. I have not checked Fuel timing or compression. Did I get something out of whack with the injector pump? Some of the components in my pump don’t match the Service Manual, but I believe I have the Rack, Fuel Control Sleeves and Plungers properly aligned. When reinstalling the pump, I made sure to get the Rack Pin in the leaver it came out of.

Any advice / guidance / direction would be appreciated!

 

[trippn4re]

One more thing...

After cleaning the fuel filter housing and replacing the filter, I filled the housing with straight transmission fluid. I've done this on my Ford IDIs and never had a problem. I would assume these Yanmars would start and run on transmission fluid vs diesel. The difference would be that on the Yanmar, I'm sure the injectors, lines and pump are straight transmission fluid, where as when doing that on the Fords, it was only in the filter housing when starting the engine.

 

[thepumpguysc]

The packing you reference IS the thin copper gasket..
The torque on the DV Holder is critical.. 30-35ftlbs
The control rack MUST move freely.. as in, if u tilt it from side to side, the rack should move from side to side..
Most Yanmar pumps I’ve worked on have a super thin gasket UNDER the barrels..
It seals between the pump hsg and barrels..
If u don’t torque the dv holders, if u getm to tight, it’ll bind the rack..
To loose and it’ll leak..
Same thing with reusing the orings and copper gaskets..leak..

 

[trippn4re]

The Rack moved freely BEFORE I reassembled the pump. I did not torque the DV Holders. I did not check Rack movement AFTER assembly - other than I could move it back and forth by hand. It was not free enough to move on it's own when turned side to side. Sounds like I need to replace those super thin copper gaskets (Packing) and the orings. I'll see if I can find those and get them ordered today.

 

[thepumpguysc]

The parts are available thru just about any fuel inj shop..
They are under the Yanmar part numbers..
Just keep in mind, some(most) pumps have that real thin gasket UNDER the barrel..BUT.. some don’t.
Your manual should show it.

 

[trippn4re]

I've ordered 3 each: Delivery Valve O-Ring: 124550-51370 and GASKET: YM-174307-51270. I'm sure it will take several days for these parts to get here. I'll follow up at that time.

 

[trippn4re]

Parts came in on Friday, but because of holiday plans I wasn't able to play with the tractor until today. I pulled the injector pump. First thing I noticed, the rack wouldn't move at all. I was surprised to find bits of carbon in the pump as I disassembled it. I thought I had cleaned it out sufficiently previously. However, I had not removed the rack and had not blow out the fuel passages. So, complete disassembly and cleaning. The two outer Plungers were difficult to remove. In fact, I had to come at them from the top side and knock them out with a small screwdriver. I washed the pump in diesel, used compressed air to blow everything out. I used carb cleaner to clean the Plungers and Barrels.

During reassembly, I check to ensure the rack would move when tilting the pump at each step. On the third Plunger and Barrel, the rack froze up. Removed that Plunger and Barrel and cleaned again. Still no luck when assembled. Removed and inspected. I'm sure a professional rebuilder would have replaced these pieces. There was a mild imperfection on the edge of the helix cut of the Plunger. I sanded both pieces - inside of the Barrel and the portion of the Plunger that goes into the Barrel with 500 grit sandpaper. I'm sure it should have been finer, but it was what I had. Every few minutes I washed the pieces in diesel and checked fit. Finally they moved freely back and forth - now to install them in pump. This time, when this Barrel and Plunger were reassembled, the rack continued to move freely.

Time to reinstall on the tractor! Bleed the fuel line at the pump. I also replaced the small oring on the banjo bolt bleeder valve. Between this and the pump orings, I no longer have a wet pump - all of the leaks here are finally resolved. Hooked up injector lines at the pump and turned the engine over until I had fuel at the injectors. Tightened up the lines at the injectors.

Engine starts!!! This is the first I've had this tractor running.

@thepumpguysc - Thank You for the guidance. Knowing the rack needed to move freely was key.

However, I'm not sure my Pump / Injector / Fuel problems are completely resolved. At full throttle I'm only getting about 2250 RPMs according to the tachometer. It's possible the tach's not working.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Does it shut off ??
If yes, the pump was probably assembled correctly..
Get yourself a hand held laser tach.. they’re about 20.00 online..
Get it BEFORE u start turning screws and blow up your engine..
Thanks for the update..

 

[trippn4re]

Ha - Too late for that. I haven't blown up the engine, but I did turn what looks like a throttle stop - see picture. I was able to get the throttle up to about 2600 rpms. Not sure if I messed something up or if I have other issues. The engine lost power and died. It will start back up but will not stay running now. I'm done for the day. I'll check it in the morning when it's cold.
View attachment 748287

I'll see if I can order an inexpensive laser tach from amazon or perhaps Harbor Freight.

 

[trippn4re]

It doesn't look like it took my picture. Let's try again.