Ym240d 3 point stuck in up position.

[Jmlcolorado]

I was spreading some dirt this evening for a neighbor using a blade.
Worked great. When I was done I stopped and raised the 3 point all the way up to travel home.
Now it won稚 drop.
It痴 stuck solid in the raised position.
I checked the lockout knob under the seat and rotated it both directions with no change.
Also checked the drop speed lever. No change in either direction. This was with engine running.
Machine has been off now for a couple hours and it痴 still locked up solid.
Anyone run into this?

 

[rScotty]

I was spreading some dirt this evening for a neighbor using a blade.
Worked great. When I was done I stopped and raised the 3 point all the way up to travel home.
Now it won稚 drop.
It痴 stuck solid in the raised position.
I checked the lockout knob under the seat and rotated it both directions with no change.
Also checked the drop speed lever. No change in either direction. This was with engine running.
Machine has been off now for a couple hours and it痴 still locked up solid.
Anyone run into this?

Yes, I have heard heard of it happening when the 3pt was forced high or low past where its internal stops. Usually by by backing into something while raising or lowering the implement and I guess it could happen by hitting a bump in transport with the implement lifted. In either case the lockage is said to be caused by the arms trying to move the piston farther than it is supposed to move.

Now keep in mind this is all hearsay; I've never fixed one that happened to.... or even seen one with that problem. So take it as a suggestion but not with real knowledge on my part. But the mechanical scuttlebut I have heard that it turned out to be either a broken return spring (simple) or else unfortunately something having to do with the piston push rod inside the 3pt cylinder falling out of position or somehow jamming the piston from moving.
The first is simple, the other one is more work. Neither is all that difficult. But don't force things. If it is the latter, you can break the piston and have a much larger job.
Here are some pages from the YM240 Hydraulic Repair Manual that you might not have seen & they might help.

There's hours of study material here, but if you understand one Yanmar 3pt lift you understand all vintage Yanmar 3pts. And like a lot of the vintage Yanmar designs they are among the best.

For that matter, the artistic work shown in the exploded diagrams from those old workshop manuals are the finest ever. Worth framing, IMHO.
rScotty






Here

 

[careyo63]

I'm with rscotty on the push Rod. Pay Attn. to the Feed Back Lever. The way it is showing in the Dia. I'm sure it is in the down position. Arms are all the way up but they will actually be falling. To Raise the position pushes in. Which your see the contact to the plunger is done by the bottom of the Push Rod Lever. That push rod should be moving so make sure it's not stuck in causing it to be stuck in the up position. My guess. The Arms In a bind is doubtful. :2cents:

 

[Jmlcolorado]

I'm with rscotty on the push Rod. Pay Attn. to the Feed Back Lever. The way it is showing in the Dia. I'm sure it is in the down position. Arms are all the way up but they will actually be falling. To Raise the position pushes in. Which your see the contact to the plunger is done by the bottom of the Push Rod Lever. That push rod should be moving so make sure it's not stuck in causing it to be stuck in the up position. My guess. The Arms In a bind is doubtful. :2cents:

I found a couple threads on a similar issue last night.
I cracked #8 in the photo. With the engine off, nothing happened. I fired it up to see if I got any flow. Nothing. But suddenly the 3 point dropped like a rock.
Tightened it back up and now it痴 working great.
I知 thinking maybe I pulled the raise lever all the way back, which is the wrong location. I suspect having it all the way up, and the drive home allowed the 3 point to bounce up enough to bind the piston.
I think maybe I got lucky. I値l be adding an adjustable stud to keep me from pulling that too far back and loading up the hydraulics. I致e got no reason to have the lever that far back.

 

[careyo63]

I know what your saying. High end stop his gone on mine. You can see empty holes is were I bet it was. Look at Hoye because they should have one or the Adjustable one which is 63-66 on the YM2000 3pt. control Dia.. Mine is at the lowest Position in my pic.. I have my Height set so not to go to high and use the set knob so when I have the Scoop BB. Etc. on I can set it not to let my handle go lower so I don't dig to deep.
It's not listed in this Pic. but the Hyd. oil case just to the right your see the Blk. handle. On the handle rod you set set nuts. That's how you prevent it from going higher to were you set it. It relieves the pressure to the To the Control valve.

 

[clemsonfor]

These are very simple. The rock shaft has to be bound up internally. Or the arms. OR there is one of the fluid return passages is blocked not allowing the fluid to return. The Vale could have come apart internally.

 

[CoyPatton]

I found a couple threads on a similar issue last night.
I cracked #8 in the photo. With the engine off, nothing happened. I fired it up to see if I got any flow. Nothing. But suddenly the 3 point dropped like a rock.
Tightened it back up and now it痴 working great.
I知 thinking maybe I pulled the raise lever all the way back, which is the wrong location. I suspect having it all the way up, and the drive home allowed the 3 point to bounce up enough to bind the piston.
I think maybe I got lucky. I値l be adding an adjustable stud to keep me from pulling that too far back and loading up the hydraulics. I致e got no reason to have the lever that far back.

If you are correct and your lever in a full raised position allows too much internal travel due to internal wear, a low tech temp fix would be to get a small machine bolt, washers and lick washer and install it into the slot at the top (I would suggest lock-tite also). As a temporary fix, this should prevent you from lifting to the full lift and a bounce prevent that internal shifting.
Also when transporting any implement across rough soil in a raise position, you may wish to lock the fluid flow with the valve under the seat.

 

[Jmlcolorado]

Okay, looks like I’ll need some assistance again.
Since this last time the 3 point got stuck up on its own, it’s been working fine. Couple hours of work on it maybe.
I’ve since installed a FEL.
I also installed a 5’ brush hog on the machine this morning for the first time and used it to now out 5 acres.
No issues.
I started using the FEL a litttle this evening. Not really work, just laying the bucket on the ground, shoveling stuff in, then dumping it.
Eventually I lost all hydraulics. Bucket was stuck up. Curl function wouldn’t work, and I looked back and found the brush hog all the way up again.
No response from the 3 point raise/drop lever at all. Same as before.

I took it back to the shop and pried it and found the hydraulic pump was HOT. Like boiling spit hot!

I figured I fried the pump.
I let it sit for a bit to cool down.
I disconnected the inlet hose from the FEl and fired up the machine. It flowed very well. Enough to think the pump was okay. Jokes it back up and the FEL worked fine for a minute then slowly post everything again.

I disconnected the inlet to the 3 point. Put the hose into the dipstick hole for the trans and fired up the machine.
Again, FEL worked perfectly again.
Knowing now there is an issue with the 3 point I checked the lockout knob. It’s half way between full locked in and full locked out.
Drop speed lever is vertical, full fast speed.

I hooked up the 3 point inlet hose again.
This whole time the 3 point was still up with the 5’ brush hog attached. So it had some weight on it.

I found if I stood on the back of the brush hog, the 3 point would drop slowly.
I got it all the way to the ground, fired up the machine, and the 3 point imediatly raised all the way up again.
Once all the way up, FEL would stop working.

Where do I start with this 3 point?!

It doesn’t appear it’s frozen in the bore. It seems like some valving is stuck internally.

 

[rScotty]

SNIP.....

I took it back to the shop and pried it and found the hydraulic pump was HOT. Like boiling spit hot!


I found if I stood on the back of the brush hog, the 3 point would drop slowly.
I got it all the way to the ground, fired up the machine, and the 3 point imediatly raised all the way up again.
Once all the way up, FEL would stop working.

Where do I start with this 3 point?!

It does not appear that it is frozen in the bore. It seems like some valving is stuck internally.

I underlined the parts of your message that seem to me to be the most significant. I have no idea if the FEL is hooked up right. That could be the problem right there.
But it does sound as though the 3pt hitch valving isn't working right.

Where I would start is describe how you have hooked up the FEL so we are all on the same page.

Most hydraulic problems on TBN come down to either a plugged up suction filter (cleanable in the Yanmar) or else it is how the FEL is plumbed. In this case we may have a 3pt valve problem too.

A hot pump is caused by restricted flow. Usually it is restricted return flow. That sounds like the FEL plumbing to me.
Yes, hydraulic pumps do run very hot. If it is boiling hot, the transhydraulic fluid is most likely been debased and will need to be replaced - but keep that old fluid until we find the problem. The fluid will be OK that long. You can use a light motor oil as your hydraulic fluid if you need to for diagnostics. 20w-20 is good.

Then for the 3pt problem - which may or may not be related .... or might even be dirt.... You go through the flow diagrams and artist cut-away illustrations in message #2 and study them until you understand how the valving is supposed to work. I think that you can then figure out exactly which valve it has to be since you found out that it lowers slowly and raises quickly.. those are key points.
Then having identified the probable valve, the cut-away illustations will show you how to find that valve on the tractor.
To help in your studies, I've also included the neutral postion flow diagram below.
good luck,
rScotty

 

[Jmlcolorado]

Thanks!
I have the 240’s hydraulic diagrams and briefly looked at them, but they made my head spin.
I will look more closely at them.

The way the FEL is hooked up:
The previous owner replaced the inlet line from the pump to the 3 point with a hose. I took that hose and installed it on the inlet port of the FEL.
I then took the outlet hose from the FEL and plumbed it to the inlet of the 3 point.

BTw, the FEL valve is the one from Hoye. As I understand, this is the proper one for this machine.