YM276D Top Link

[richriddle]

The YM276D top link upper thraded portion bent. Is there a way to get this part only or does one simply replace the entire top link? If the thread size was available, one of the same thread size can be ordered as well. The current top link has a welded bar on it that makes it easy to adjust.

 

[winston1]

top link end cat 1 - Google Search

 

[California]

What stressed that enough to bend it?

 

[bmaverick]

The YM276D top link upper thraded portion bent. Is there a way to get this part only or does one simply replace the entire top link? If the thread size was available, one of the same thread size can be ordered as well. The current top link has a welded bar on it that makes it easy to adjust.

View attachment 665568

Just about ANY tractor store or coop store sells generic top-links of various sizes for tractors. Mine came from my John Deere 850 (YM2500 painted green)

Those welded bar studs either bend or break due to heavy use with a pry bar. Oh, did I say that. LOL Been there and did that a few times. Now, I just use anti-seize on the treads. Makes getting the top-link off so much easier.

 

[CoyPatton]

Too have bent the top link, carefully examine your lower arms and the pin mounts on your tractor. Generally, the lower arms will take more abuse than the top link when hitting something going backwards. I assume you were either backing up and ran into something non-movable or was grading backwards and hit something very solid.

 

[bmaverick]

Too have bent the top link, carefully examine your lower arms and the pin mounts on your tractor. Generally, the lower arms will take more abuse than the top link when hitting something going backwards. I assume you were either backing up and ran into something non-movable or was grading backwards and hit something very solid.

Coy, you are sooooo right! I just walked out to the garage, picked up the top-link I only use for snow removal because it's bent and the threads are jammed. It works great for plowing and nothing else. I don't want to break the good one either from the JD850.



Rich, you may want to SAVE the bent top link for those jobs like 3PT blade snow removal in reverse or similar activity. Then with a GOOD top-link anti-seize the threads and treat it like gold. :thumbsup:

 

[California]

Those welded bar studs either bend or break due to heavy use with a pry bar. Oh, did I say that. LOL

Hey that's what the hole at the end of a Crescent Wrench handle is for!

Put the force near the weld, not several inches out.

And yes, lube it. I like non-greasy silicon lube so dirt won't stick.

 

[richriddle]

The bend did NOT occur with RR in the seat. A former worker literally broke every tractor at the farm, and most likely he intentionally broke things. He broke machines and tools as well. The Stihl dealer once said, "Stihl doesn't warranty items for abuse or misuse" when he looked at a broken tool. The cause of the top link is unknown, but the tractors have never broken since the former worker left (with the exception of the brake on the YM276D rusting together over the winter). Well left is one way to put it.

 

[oosik]

Now may be a good time to consider a hydraulic top link. If your tractor has rear SCV. I got mine from Brian at Fit Rite. A wonderful addition to any land engagement implement. They are custom made for your tractor and are several times stronger than the OEM top link.