Your last generator Maintenance Run

[Rustyiron]

90cummins,
This is very interesting (your set up) are your batteries also tied to solar?
I can see your system would be the way to go for a longer term outage and running on the batteries during lighter electrical load times vs. using a generator or fooling around with a "selection" of generators for economy.
Have you ever done a thread on your setup?

 

[90cummins]

I use rotella T6 5w40 full synthetic in all my diesels. It definitely makes a difference in cranking speed which diesels need to start.
Don’t know the specifics you’d need to look it up.
90cummins

 

[Robin Veerman]

I believe that the pour point is -51C, good for those really cold days!!

 

[90cummins]

Rustyiron
I have not started a thread on my system.
It is not connected to my solar or the grid. It is a standalone system. As you mentioned it can be very efficient. The Yanmar will run 4 hours per gallon supporting the entire house minus the electric dryer.
If I was to run it on auto it would start & stop on battery voltage set points so I could double, triple or possible quadruple my hours per gallon. During one test I lowered the engine rpm from 2700 to 2500 and gained 1 hour of run time (5 hours).
There is fifty gallons of fuel for the long haul.
90cummins

 

[3930dave]

After months of on again & off again trouble shooting and talking with a few very smart controls people I’ve finally managed to understand my Xantrex AGS (automatic Gen Start) which now functions properly.
My primary gen is an L100 Yanmar that belt drives a 28 V 450 amp Niehoff alternator.
I’ve programmed the AGS to start at a specified battery voltage (24.5) +- and shut down after running specified amount of time or voltage that exceeds 29 volts.
It’s been near zero the past couple days & I’ve been thinking about the generator’s in my power house & how the cold makes it difficult to start them.
The MEP has a Farymann 15hp diesel that is slow to start even in the summer.
The Yanmar is an excellent starter but requires considerable cranking in single digit temperatures because it has no cold start aids.
I’ve pondered this issue for month’s and while I was making up some new 4/0 cables and using shrink tubing on connections I had the thought to use the 1500 watt heat gun as an intake air heater.
The Farymann has heaters in the intake and oil pan but requires (minute's) of preheat before they are effective in near zero temperatures.

Having been below zero recently and currently 10 degrees I felt it was a good time for a test.
I removed the air cleaner from the Yanmar and directed the heat gun into the intake for a 30 seconds & then cranked the engine which started after a few turns then stalled. It repeated this a couple times then ran nicely with no stumbling.
I then removed the air cleaner from the MEP and used the heat gun directing the heat into the intake port and the engine started with less cranking at 10 degrees than it does in the summer.
Peace of mind knowing this simple trick!!
For those with diesels that need help starting consider using a heat gun to pre-heat the intake air to make your life easier.
90cummins

Congrats on getting the AGS sorted 90 !

You've basically set up a personal version of the big industrial gen/battery systems I was around years back.

You have a lot of depth / redundancy in your system....... at any scale, IMO, batteries and inverters can nicely complement generators.....

Rgds, D.

 

[3930dave]

Being air cooled diesels it’s important to have an environment that is warm enough to keep the operating temperatures up.
I’ve repaired 3 air cooled Yanmars that suffered from wet stacking from insufficient load in cold environments.
90cummins

A lot of people under-estimate that ^ problem.

Rgds, D.

 

[3930dave]

I've used a heat gun (also a propane torch) to help start diesels too, it has worked just fine for me.

On an old CAT, we use to dip a clean grease rag in gas, wring it out then throw it over the intake of the CAT. The gas fumes were enough to get it going.

SR

I can see that gas+rag trick being helpful, esp. @ really cold temps.

If i had a balky small diesel at somewhat cold temps, I'd might try using an unlit propane torch, to drift some propane into the intake while cranking..... partly in the hope that it would be a bit more gentle than using Quick Start.......

I've never had to struggle like that..... a friend has a Chinese portable diesel generator that has been a nightmare, but as he lives the other end of the country, I've haven't made the trip yet to fight with it.....

Buddy of mine fixed up some mechanical issues on a old Belarus 2wd ag tractor, then eventually sold it. Big tough tractor, and I've never seen anything start like that in the cold (Deutz engine ?)...... i swear that thing thought -25C was a nice Spring Day !

Rgds, D.

 

[MAX-24-Dean]

This is my powerhouse. These are my diesel backup generators. Both are 28v DC generators that support my 4kw battery backup. During an outage I can use inverter power or my Honda EU2000i portable if I have to do a cold black start. I have other backup sources if needed.
My second source would be a Yanmar L70 diesel portable that has a mil-spec Yanmar configured for extreme cold with 2 intake grid heaters and an extended 3 quart capacity deep sump.
This engine will start at minus 10 degrees F within 2 engine revolutions using the heater and is capable of running unattended for 400 hours with the deep sump and bypass oil filter system providing there is sufficient fuel.
I’m still in the process of tidying up the electrics.
I recently configured the cooling fans so one fan starts ventilating when the fuel in turned on and the second fan is programmed to start after the interior temp rises to 85 degrees.
Being air cooled diesels it’s important to have an environment that is warm enough to keep the operating temperatures up.
I’ve repaired 3 air cooled Yanmars that suffered from wet stacking from insufficient load in cold environments.
90cummins

Just curious about the wooden frame mount with the yanmar, is the wood touching the floor or is it partly or completely balanced on the tire that is under it?
Also, like the flex exhaust. Does it provide much heat on the inside of the power house?

 

[90cummins]

My most recent wet stack victim was a Chinese quiet gen with the Yanmar L100 clone. It was on a summer job site running weeks just powering an occasional skill saw & keeping batteries charged for cordless tools. It ran flawlessly for weeks then started spitting & sputtering then quit.
When I received it there was little compression. The cylinder was glazed & rings stuck.
Replaced piston & rings because they were cheap, honed the cylinder touched up the valves & seats & it ran fine.
I advised him that running with little to no load was not good.
Haven’t seen him since.
90cummins

 

[90cummins]

The generators were on the floor at first but they shook the building & the harmonics were unbelievably loud. I resolved that by placing a radial tire under each generator. That solved all the vibes & noises.
The exahust pipe adds some heat but not enough to be an issue.
The cold air intakes are at floor level on the right blowing on the Yanmar generator.
The exahust fans are mid level on opposite side for cross flow ventilation. I can open & close the intake vents to moderate the interior temperature.
The intake vents were placed facing the prevailing wind so as not to inhibit the low hp cooling fans that have gravity shutters on them.
My wife & son have said I need to write an operations manual, I agree!!!
90cummins