track torch project

[muddstopper]

I always wanted a track torch. The older I get, the more my hands shake, and the uglier my cuts get. I looked for a used one for a while but didnt like the prices of a complete setup. Looked for just the torch itself without the track, but was afraid of what ebay had to offer in the used torchs. So I just decided to use one of my hand torch's and see how that worked out. Aint to many home made track torches on Youtube and they all where made to do straight vertical cuts only. I wanted to cut bevels so I had to figure out how to mount the torch so it could cut straight or on a bevel. These pics are of my first cutting attempts. I think it does pretty good. I made a few mistakes, which I will change and will explain.

First mistake was using a 3/8 all thread rod for the lead screw. It works, but has a tendency to wobble and flex as the torch travels the track. I plan on changeing it out for a 1/2 all thread to see if that helps with the wobble. Second mistake was the mount for the torch itself. It works just fine for straight cuts, but when you tilt the torch on an angle, it wont go low enough to get proper torch height. I ma just going to weld a piece of 1in square bar to the bottom of the mount and redirl it to accept the part that actually hold the torch. Other than those two items, I am pretty satisfied with how well it works.

The track is 1in angle. The top part is just 6in 3/16 flat plate. I welded 3 3/8 nuts to the bottom of the plate to run the all thread rod thru to pull the torch along the track. I use a cordless drill to turn the rod. I had a piece of 1x2 flat bar that I drilled to accept a 3/4 in all thread rod for height adjustment and 2 1/2in round rods to keep every thing lined up. I ended up having to redrill the holes for the guide rods to accept a 5/8x1/2in bushing because I had to much slop and wiggle. I purposely made the 5/8 threaded rod and the 1/2in guide rods long but will probably trim them off once I figure out just how much height adjustment I really need. For mounting the torch, I had some 3/4 black pipe that I sawed in half lenght ways. This proved to be an exact fit as a saddle for the torch body. I just welded it to some angle and use a hose clamp to hold the torch in place, For the end of the torch, I just welded another piece of angle for the torch to rest on. It does'nt move. Where the torch mount attached to the 1x2 flat bar. I used some 2x2 3/16 plate that I drilled so I could bolt it to the flat bar. I drilled the holes and made one a slot so I could angle the torch by simply loosening the bolts and tilting the torch mount.

I also welded some 2x3/16 flat bar to the bottom of the track leaving about 2 inches sticking out to allow something to clamp the torch to the metal. I advise clamping both ends of the track, I already bumped the track while cutting and made a boo bo crooked cut in a practice piece. I only had one end clamped at the time, but thats why they call it a practice cut.

 

[Shield Arc]

That's really slick!:thumbsup:
How do you keep the oxygen lever pushed down?

 

[tnjind]

That does a nice job, have thought about one myself.
Good job, thanks for posting

 

[yomax4]

Next you can modify to use Plasma. I might have some torch holder and rack and pinion components in a box some where that you may be able to use.. I' check.

 

[muddstopper]

Thanks for the nice comments. As for holding the Oxy lever down, right now I am just using a piece of angle and some vice grips. I need to remake the swivel bracket so the torch drops down far enough to do bevels, then I will just make me a toggle of some sort for the lever. The track torch will cut 59in long. My lead screw was 6ft and by the time I made the cart for the torch, I lost a few inches. My arms aint long enough to make 59in cuts holding the lever and running the drill. Total cost to build was probably less than $20 and except for the screw and 12ft piece of angle, its mostly made from scrap.

 

[muddstopper]

Next you can modify to use Plasma. I might have some torch holder and rack and pinion components in a box some where that you may be able to use.. I' check.

I plan on making a mount for my plasma next. Right now I needed something to cut a knife edge on about 20ft of thick metal, My plasma isnt capable. I couldnt see me hand cutting 20ft x's2 of bevel. The flat plat I cut was 27in long and 1in thick, once set up actual cut time was maybe 2 min using a #2 tip, 40psi oxy and 10psi acet. Slag wiped off with a wire brush in a couple of licks.

Let me know what kind of parts you have laying around.

 

[Shield Arc]

Keep an eye out for a machine torch, then you'll be all set.

 

[Sodo]

I like it! Agreed 1/2" might support its own weight better.

In 2005 I had to clear out the crawlspace of an industrial building. There was a big box of about three OA pattern cutters. All quality materials for "Projects". Some of the parts were 'new in box'. I was way too busy, had to clear it all out cuz of deadlines coming, i had no time for eBay, and no place to put the stuff. For a scrounger like me this was painful to dispose of valuable project materials. I assume they were 'machine torches'. All went to a scrapper.

Anyway, cool project.

 

[muddstopper]

Been using the track torch some. I will definately have to upgrade the lead screw. Its already starting to turn in an elliptical motion causing the torch to wobble as it travels the track. Have to see if Fastenal is open tomorrow, they are about the only place around here that has all thread in lengths longer than 3ft.

 

[Big Barn]

muddstopper I assume you were going to use 1/2-20 for your lead screw? If so, perhaps it might be better to go to 1/2" Acme thread instead? It is available in 3 and 4 foot lengths I think. (And buy the corresponding acme nuts). Just a thought.

Terry

 

[muddstopper]

Terry, I was thinking about that, SurplusCenter has 6ft rods and the nuts, cost me about $20+shipping. I need to make up a list for weld-in flange fittings for my hydraulic tank and get them all at the same time to save some on shipping. Fastenal has the acme rods too, but I think their price is quite a bit higher. I had a problem with the 3/8 allthread from the start. I bought a union nut to weld on the bottom of the torch car and it wouldnt thread all the way on the rod. I ran a die over the rod and it cut all kinds of shavings off the rod. I think the all thread stretches as it wobbles and deforms the threads. This makes the rod twist as its turned and it keeps getting worse. I have probably cut 7 or 8 ft total in 1in steel and I have gone from glad to sad with the results.

 

[Sodo]

1/4" rod holds 7,000 lbs,,,,,, 3/8" all-thread is not stretching, its just not strong enough to support its own sag. Try electrical supply houses for all-thread, they use it to hang conduits in commercial buildings, about half the price elsewhere and they have 8-footers. No need for a coupling nut that just gives 4x longer friction if any thread problem is encountered. If you wear this thread out you've cut all the steel in your county.

Another option that looks "special" (maybe this pic IS ACME thread?) is a "threaded rebar". Its a higher grade steel used for higher-engineered structures. Some I've seen looks like a precision ballscrew, would give your tool a nice appearance. I don't know the proper name for it maybe someone does (I bet bcp knows ). Here's a pic of it:

Pic from the williamsform.com website.

The ballscrew type stuff is available (and the couplings) at the place where I buy my steel. Pacific Undustrial Supply Co it was not expensive but was in 20-foot sticks.

 

[BukitCase]

Enco - Guaranteed Lowest Prices on Machinery, Tools and Shop Supplies

$10 for 6 foot doesn't seem too bad - I've bought afew of their 3 footers for projects, pretty good quality.

Dunno if anyone else has finer thread, but their 1/2" is only available in 8 or 10 TPI - might cause trouble getting the drill to go slow enough. Enco also carries the nuts of course, and this stuff comes in right or left hand threads. No mixing and matching though :thumbdown: ...Steve

 

[Sodo]

Thanks for that link Steve now I can just walk past that ballscrew-rebar that I always thought I needed,,,,,(or someone needed). This clears a slot in my brain for something else. :laughing:

 

[muddstopper]

I actually liked the 16tpi of the 3/8 rod. I could set the drill on one and hold the trigger all the way down to make a clean cut. I guess I could go with 3/4-16 fine thread to keep the same speed control. Right now I have about $20 in the setup. Looks like the price is about to double. Not bad considering the cost of a real track torch

 

[Big Barn]

Maybe a slow speed/high torque variable speed drill if you could find one used? I know it defeats the exercise of keeping the project low cost, but the drill wouldn't have to be dedicated for use on your track torch. Then the lower TPI of acme thread wouldn't be so much of a problem.

I'm not really liking this idea, but it's just a thought. Terry

 

[muddstopper]

Well, Its settled. I bought a piece of 3/4 all thread at Tractor Supply. Fastenal wanted $48 for a acme rod and $38 for the all thread. At Tractor Supply the all thread was $$20. I took a cutting bit and hogged out the holes for the bigger rod and already have it put together. I have to attach some smaller stock to the ends of the 3/4 rod so I can chuck it into my drill and I'll get a test cut. Now I have about $40+/- in it, should have bought the bigger rod to start with, but it is what it is.

I have been using my cordless drill to turn the rod, its good for a few cuts before needing recharging.

 

[BukitCase]

If you can figure out a way to hang the driven end over the end of the bench for clearance, you might be able to drill out a fairly large pulley to 3/4" for the allthread, then put a 1/2" bolt (head cut off) in your drill with a SMALL pulley on the bolt, and kluge up a way to keep tension on the belt - this would compensate for the 10 TPI on standard 3/4" allthread.

Just a brain fart, if you use it and get the bugs out I'll steal "your" idea ...Steve

(And I'd make it shiny, just for Terry :laughing: )

 

[Big Barn]

Just a brain fart, if you use it and get the bugs out I'll steal "your" idea ...Steve (And I'd make it shiny, just for Terry :laughing: )

I had to place those dimple dies in the photo (on the other thread) on something shiny otherwise I figured you wouldn't even notice it.

Terry

 

[muddstopper]

Its ALIVE!!!!!. Heart beat a little irregular, but works non the less. Big difference in flopping around with the bigger allthread. My cordless drill battery died so i was trying to use my regular drill, which just happens to have the reverse switch broke. Working off a couple of saw horses and really, really see the need for a proper table. Anyways. My power drill is to hard to regulate the cutting speed. I found a new dimmer switch in the junk drawer and made a temporary connection with the drill. Only worked so so, the swings in power are to much for good speed control. Even a litter turn of the dimmer and it either stopped or went to fast. I did manage to make one cut, but my arms aint long enough to watch the flame and run the drill. Made a few pics of the new screw and the cut, but phone died. Got it on the charger and will post a couple of pics later. Got battery drill on charge also, I can control the speed much better with that drill and when it charges up, I'll make another cut. Right now, its really a two man rig unless the cuts are short. I'll fix me a lever masher thangie for the oxy valve so I dont have to hold it all the time making a cut, build a proper cutting table, get the speed figured out, and it should be good to go.