track torch project

[muddstopper]

Terry, I was thinking about that, SurplusCenter has 6ft rods and the nuts, cost me about $20+shipping. I need to make up a list for weld-in flange fittings for my hydraulic tank and get them all at the same time to save some on shipping. Fastenal has the acme rods too, but I think their price is quite a bit higher. I had a problem with the 3/8 allthread from the start. I bought a union nut to weld on the bottom of the torch car and it wouldnt thread all the way on the rod. I ran a die over the rod and it cut all kinds of shavings off the rod. I think the all thread stretches as it wobbles and deforms the threads. This makes the rod twist as its turned and it keeps getting worse. I have probably cut 7 or 8 ft total in 1in steel and I have gone from glad to sad with the results.

 

[Sodo]

1/4" rod holds 7,000 lbs,,,,,, 3/8" all-thread is not stretching, its just not strong enough to support its own sag. Try electrical supply houses for all-thread, they use it to hang conduits in commercial buildings, about half the price elsewhere and they have 8-footers. No need for a coupling nut that just gives 4x longer friction if any thread problem is encountered. If you wear this thread out you've cut all the steel in your county.

Another option that looks "special" (maybe this pic IS ACME thread?) is a "threaded rebar". Its a higher grade steel used for higher-engineered structures. Some I've seen looks like a precision ballscrew, would give your tool a nice appearance. I don't know the proper name for it maybe someone does (I bet bcp knows ). Here's a pic of it:

Pic from the williamsform.com website.

The ballscrew type stuff is available (and the couplings) at the place where I buy my steel. Pacific Undustrial Supply Co it was not expensive but was in 20-foot sticks.

 

[BukitCase]

Enco - Guaranteed Lowest Prices on Machinery, Tools and Shop Supplies

$10 for 6 foot doesn't seem too bad - I've bought afew of their 3 footers for projects, pretty good quality.

Dunno if anyone else has finer thread, but their 1/2" is only available in 8 or 10 TPI - might cause trouble getting the drill to go slow enough. Enco also carries the nuts of course, and this stuff comes in right or left hand threads. No mixing and matching though :thumbdown: ...Steve

 

[Sodo]

Thanks for that link Steve now I can just walk past that ballscrew-rebar that I always thought I needed,,,,,(or someone needed). This clears a slot in my brain for something else. :laughing:

 

[muddstopper]

I actually liked the 16tpi of the 3/8 rod. I could set the drill on one and hold the trigger all the way down to make a clean cut. I guess I could go with 3/4-16 fine thread to keep the same speed control. Right now I have about $20 in the setup. Looks like the price is about to double. Not bad considering the cost of a real track torch

 

[Big Barn]

Maybe a slow speed/high torque variable speed drill if you could find one used? I know it defeats the exercise of keeping the project low cost, but the drill wouldn't have to be dedicated for use on your track torch. Then the lower TPI of acme thread wouldn't be so much of a problem.

I'm not really liking this idea, but it's just a thought. Terry

 

[muddstopper]

Well, Its settled. I bought a piece of 3/4 all thread at Tractor Supply. Fastenal wanted $48 for a acme rod and $38 for the all thread. At Tractor Supply the all thread was $$20. I took a cutting bit and hogged out the holes for the bigger rod and already have it put together. I have to attach some smaller stock to the ends of the 3/4 rod so I can chuck it into my drill and I'll get a test cut. Now I have about $40+/- in it, should have bought the bigger rod to start with, but it is what it is.

I have been using my cordless drill to turn the rod, its good for a few cuts before needing recharging.

 

[BukitCase]

If you can figure out a way to hang the driven end over the end of the bench for clearance, you might be able to drill out a fairly large pulley to 3/4" for the allthread, then put a 1/2" bolt (head cut off) in your drill with a SMALL pulley on the bolt, and kluge up a way to keep tension on the belt - this would compensate for the 10 TPI on standard 3/4" allthread.

Just a brain fart, if you use it and get the bugs out I'll steal "your" idea ...Steve

(And I'd make it shiny, just for Terry :laughing: )

 

[Big Barn]

Just a brain fart, if you use it and get the bugs out I'll steal "your" idea ...Steve (And I'd make it shiny, just for Terry :laughing: )

I had to place those dimple dies in the photo (on the other thread) on something shiny otherwise I figured you wouldn't even notice it.

Terry

 

[muddstopper]

Its ALIVE!!!!!. Heart beat a little irregular, but works non the less. Big difference in flopping around with the bigger allthread. My cordless drill battery died so i was trying to use my regular drill, which just happens to have the reverse switch broke. Working off a couple of saw horses and really, really see the need for a proper table. Anyways. My power drill is to hard to regulate the cutting speed. I found a new dimmer switch in the junk drawer and made a temporary connection with the drill. Only worked so so, the swings in power are to much for good speed control. Even a litter turn of the dimmer and it either stopped or went to fast. I did manage to make one cut, but my arms aint long enough to watch the flame and run the drill. Made a few pics of the new screw and the cut, but phone died. Got it on the charger and will post a couple of pics later. Got battery drill on charge also, I can control the speed much better with that drill and when it charges up, I'll make another cut. Right now, its really a two man rig unless the cuts are short. I'll fix me a lever masher thangie for the oxy valve so I dont have to hold it all the time making a cut, build a proper cutting table, get the speed figured out, and it should be good to go.