weld failure?

[Sodo]

LT190B we need a pic from the "wheel side". Both old broken yoke and the new replacement yoke. If the new yoke is welded both sides (or tight hole) then possibly you won't need to repair the old one (as a spare).

Properly welded, an abuse failure on that part should have the shaft looking like a bent nail before it pulled out.

That shaft doesn't have enough support.
It's flexing the weld because it's loose in the bore, and then fatigue cracking the weld. Subjecting a weld to repeated fatigue stresses is BAD weld design.

On the "old" yoke, prepare like this, and weld boith sides, and you could bend that shaft like a nail before stressing the weld.

As James (and others) wrote:

Let me repair that thing with my little stick machine and some time beveling before the weld. If you could bevel out the top and lay even a small smooth bead on the top too, it would be Sooo much stronger. It shouldn't be a problem with the fit up. That's what I would do.

This would solve it, MIG or stick.

If you can't do the weld on the wheel side, another way,,,, if there is space behind, is to simply "extend the shaft" on the backside. Lots of ways to do this depending on space available. Bevel out and re-weld the shaft as it was. Then add a 1/4" (or 3/8") thick "washer" and then plug-weld it onto the end of the shaft.

Need a pic fro the other side so we can see if the shaft is "tight" in the bore. Send pics of old and new. I suppose we have to wait to see if the new one breaks too? (for pics) If loose, you're gonna have to chamfer it and weld it, and the only way to do that, is with the shaft out ((with broken weld as in your first pic).

 

[flyerdan]

Sodo, thanks for taking the time to photoshop all those pics to illustrate properly welded. That makes it quite clear how the part should have been made from the get go, and how to permanently fix it.

 

[lt190b]

LT190B we need a pic from the "wheel side". Both old broken yoke and the new replacement yoke. If the new yoke is welded both sides (or tight hole) then possibly you won't need to repair the old one (as a spare).



That shaft doesn't have enough support.
It's flexing the weld because it's loose in the bore, and then fatigue cracking the weld. Subjecting a weld to repeated fatigue stresses is BAD weld design.

On the "old" yoke, prepare like this, and weld boith sides, and you could bend that shaft like a nail before stressing the weld.

As James (and others) wrote:



This would solve it, MIG or stick.

If you can't do the weld on the wheel side, another way,,,, if there is space behind, is to simply "extend the shaft" on the backside. Lots of ways to do this depending on space available. Bevel out and re-weld the shaft as it was. Then add a 1/4" (or 3/8") thick "washer" and then plug-weld it onto the end of the shaft.

Need a pic fro the other side so we can see if the shaft is "tight" in the bore. Send pics of old and new. I suppose we have to wait to see if the new one breaks too? (for pics) If loose, you're gonna have to chamfer it and weld it, and the only way to do that, is with the shaft out ((with broken weld as in your first pic).

Sodo, thanks for your thoughts and artwork.The pictures you posted are the wheel side. The shaft is loose and probably never was tight The last 2 pictures are from the top,I hope these help?

 

[spursjingles]

Weld failure. The 5 year old apprentice did the welding and the 7 year old journeyman was on a lunch break.

 

[spursjingles]

New one will eventually break too.