No high range

[California]

Very clever!

I think after 30 years, OEM parts are best but shop-made replacements are ok too if they are just as solid as original.

It sounds like you made a solid replacement. If that were mine, I would just put it in service and enjoy using it!

 

[284 International]

I actually prefer the height and angle of the wrench handle: it clears up a little bit of swing-through room for my feet. I'm suspicious I'm a smidgen larger than the Japanese farmers and engineers who originally designed these things. I'll take some pictures of my field-expedient repair if anybody cares, I just thought it was fairly horrifying, and the type of thing that would make me avoid purchasing a tractor.

Here are some pictures of the top of the transmission in another thread: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/113326-trans-shifting-problem-240d.html

 

[284 International]

Here's a picture of what I ended up doing as a temporary fix for mine. As I said, it's embarassing, but I remember specifically criticizing some other farm-expedient fixes in an earlier thread, so it's only fair to do the same to myself:

That's the wrong bolt in it; I've put a shorter one in since so it doesn't protrude as far. There's a nut welded onto the shaft that accepts the box end of the wrench. The bolt goes through the nut into a tapped hole in the shaft (It was tricky to get the threads to align on both those things when welding it) and then the washer and lock nut hold the wrench onto the nut. It's actually a good setup, aside from the aesthetics.

And before anybody says it: I've got a boot for the shifter on the way; it's parked in a shed with a tarp over it. I'm too much of a wimp to use it in the rain, so water leakage isn't an issue.

 

[silvertramp]

PRETTY SPORTY, PRETTY SHARP!

 

[winston1]

Ingenuity at its best.

 

[284 International]

I did it this way so that when/if the repair fails, I can easily access it again. I was nervous that there was some other problem too, that caused it to bind or something. So far that doesn't seem to be the case.

I wanted the OP to know that these are highly repairable machines, that take only a small bit of skill and time to get back operating, so long as it's not a major, deeply internal problem. Then you should at least have some directions or a diagram or something....:laughing:

 

[deepNdirt]

I did it this way so that when/if the repair fails, I can easily access it again. :

you shouldn't have any problem finding the wrench
I've done my share of improvising as well :thumbsup:

 

[284 International]

Gryyde84, have you made any headway yet?

 

[California]

I've done my share of improvising as well :thumbsup:

Me too. I have had this 'hack' on my YM240 so long I forgot about it. This bungee assists the weak detent spring/ball to stay in high range.

I took the bungee off when I bought the tractor to see what would happen. Nothing, until I was roading it fast down a rough dirt lane. When the driveline went slack lurching over a bump it slipped to Neutral a couple of times over a couple of months. That was scary going downhill. I put the bungee back on.

The hook slides down to the nut when the lever is forward (low range) so it has no effect there and doesn't tug the lever upward.

In seven years using this it hasn't jumped out of gear yet. Someday if I have to split the tractor I'll replace the detent spring/ball parts to get it right. Meanwhile - this simply works.

284 - I saw you were online and just remembered this, so I just now went out in the dark and took the picture.

 

[284 International]

That's a great treatment for that problem! I'd never get 7 years of life out of a rubber bungee like that around here. The ozone and heat in this area makes them crack and dry-rot. If it ever sees sunlight, it's even worse. Maybe if I didn't buy the cheapest Harbor Freight bungees I would have better luck.....