Duragrader Experience

Wayne_Freeman · Aug 7, 2007

My 5' duragrader has the angled blades that is supposed to build a crown in the road. I am satisfied with the grader but have yet to figure out how to set the implement in order to build a crown. Here is how I currently set up the implement: On a level surface adjust the top link so when in the float position the rear of the skids and rear blade make contact first in a configuration similar to the angle of a plane about to land. From there I shorten the top link 2-4 turns.

Does this sound about right? Has anyone tried lengthening the right side link to build more crown into a gravel road? Some pics would be really good!

hudr · Aug 7, 2007

I normally lengthen one 3pt arm to allow one side of my Grademaster to hit first. It takes several passes starting out. And you have to make sure you are always "moving" gravel to the middle of the road.
Another thing I have noticed, my Grademaster will not "make" gravel. Believe it or not, I have actually had to buy material to spread. ;-(
(notice tongue in cheek on last remark)

bucmeister · Aug 7, 2007

Agree with hudr, recently acquired an 8' Grademaster and based on experiences I would suggest you set the right side a bit lower and make multiple passes.

Wayne_Freeman · Aug 8, 2007

Thanks for your input! By experimenting with small changes it becomes apparent what works best. The biggest problem I have had is pine needles tend to clog up the flow requiring a stop to remove the accumulation. Does your grader have the angled blades? If so, which side do you lower?

hudr · Aug 8, 2007

yeah, the grass along the edge of my drive tends to clog the blade.
Yes, the blades are angled on mine. I drop the side w/ the leading edge (blade end closest to the tractor). These are probably standardized but, the forward edge on mine is on the right (my right while sitting on the tractor facing forward). So my Grademaster is moving material from right to left. I run down the right side of the drive, moving material from the ditch side to the middle of the road. Is that confusing enough?

bucmeister · Aug 8, 2007

Mine is the same, right side as the tractor goes forward is most forward end of the blades. I do wish the blades had a sharper right to left angle of attack as I think it would move the material to the center more quickly and it might make it shed the grass and straw a bit better. Have not had to deal with pine straw but the bermuda grass does cause me to have to dismount and remove the buildup by hand or drag it to a place to work on later. I will get a chance to really work mine in a couple of weeks when I take it to the camp to work about 1.5 miles of roadbed around the place.

Wayne_Freeman · Aug 9, 2007

Thanks for your input guys. By far the grader is much better then the old box blade routine. I have learned to run my root rake down the road and remove most of the pine needles but for a new road when digging any substantial amount of grass it may still clog.

sandman2234 · Aug 10, 2007

I think using your adjustments on the 3pt might make as much difference as the amount it currently has built in, maybe more depending on how much you can adjust it.
Another way would be to take a piece of 1/2" steel flatbar and drill two holes in it. Remove the right side pin from your Duragrader and put the plate against it, then reinstall the pin. Add another pin an inch or so higher than the one that is there now. That should allow you to build a crown rapidly, and after it is crowned, you can go back to the lower pin since the tractor and Duragrader at now at an angle as you drive down the driveway. Might want to cut the flatbar and drill holes so the bottom of the flatbar is sitting on top of the crossmember. That will help resist the turning tendency the flatbar will have. Once you get it so you know it works you could weld it, or weld a tab on it so it won't turn under the lower pin.
If you have any questions, give me a call.
Since you don't have quite as many fabrication tools as I do, maybe we could also consider me drilling the holes for you, but you would have to provide the diagrams. (as usual, lol)
David from jax

DCJL · Oct 12, 2007

I'm about to get my GradeMaster delivered and need to build up my road. I have a 700' driveway with a fairly steep pitch. With using the GradeMaster do you feel I should build up the road with gravel alone, gravel underneath and then Stamatte, or just Stamatte? I'm not overly concerned with the cost difference between the 2 materials, more concerned with what will work better with the GradeMaster and holding the road together.

Tig · Oct 12, 2007

I built an angle blade grader with dual blades and used it for the first time last week. Here are my observations.
1) Sticks and leaves bind the gravel and stop it from tumbling. It just gets worse from there. I stop and pull the dang sticks out. Should have raked first.
2) My road has lots of gravel and is nicely elevated and ditched but it is dished from years of abuse and It's going to take time, patience and gravel to correct the crown. I try to work the day after it has rained so that the road is soft and the damp gravel will compact well after I am done.
3) Grading is fun when it seems to be working well. Seat time!
4) Top n tilt makes it much more efficient. The conditions on the road vary and I can control how agressive I want to grade. Drop the ditch side to build crown. Pull the nose up a touch to be less agressive.
5) After I built the grader I became aware of design flaws as mentioned in these forums over the summer. I wasn't overly optimistic but after using it I am thrilled, it worked very well. I could still tweek up the design a bit to improve gravel tumbling but at least I don't have to start over.

Just my 2 cents.