Ok, Gents, thanks for the discussion. 1. Will eliminating the push starter and adding a key start work? 2. Why is it recommended to change the polarity of the tractor when converting to 12 Volt from 6 volt?
3. When I got this tractor, already converted to 12 volts, the push button starter worked. How? (was it electrically safe?) There was only one wire connecting the push button to the solenoid. 4. You say I got the wrong solenoid (i'm not doubting your correctness) but what is the problem with it? Supposedly, I have the correct solenoid. 5. "safety neutral starter interlock".... how am I inadvertently bypassing this? Please explain.
The answers to most of these have already been stated in my posts, but I'll recap those after addressing the 12v issue.
1, yes... not reccomended ( by me thought. )
2, when most people change to 12v, they stick an alternator on... MOST alts ont he consumer market are NEGATIVE GROUND.. You CAN get positive ground alts, but they are harder to find. Also, if you go to electronic ignition, the available units for 12v are negative ground. thus the polarity swap.
3, how? it was hooked up correctly! solenoid coil became hot with key on, push button provided ground when pushed. simple electric circuit. Was it safe? yes, push button is designed so it can't be pushed when tractor is in gear... thus it is a neutral safety starter interlock.. the push button ONLY provides a ground path for the solenoid field coil.
4, problem? It's not working as hooekd up is it?
I'd say that's what's wrong! It is designed so that the mounting legs are providing ground to the coil, and that providing switched power to one of the small terminals, it pulls in the relay contacts.
5, at the risk of being redundant, if you use a setup that does not incorporate the thumb button on the trans cover to actuate the starter ONLY when in neutral, then you are defeating the starter safety interlock as designed for that machine.