synthetic oil choices.

[CurlyDave]

However, you didn't clue us in on what brand, type of oil you use...

It depends on the vehicle.

For years I used Castrol Syntec (100% Synthetic) 5W-50, which I could get at Costco.

Then I bought a new car (BMW Roadster) and 50k miles of dealer service was included in the price. So, I just took that one to the dealer. I am selling that one soon, not because it isn't fun, but because it isn't very compatible with our 800 foot gravel driveway at the new house. It also isn't compatible with our two labs, and the neighbors' golden retriever and lab mix. (Whenever I drive anywhere near our property I have a pack of dogs following me, running in front, etc. I decided last year that if I stop & put the dogs in the bed of the truck they are safer from getting run over.)

I can't find the Castrol any longer at Costco, so I now use Mobil 1 Synthetic from Wally World, in my 2000 F-150. I try to get 5W-40, but if they are out of it at the time I need oil I will use 5W-30.

For my tractor, I had the dealer do the 50 hour service. An oil change is coming up this summer, and I will use the Mobil 1. The gallon in my garage right now has a CF rating, which means it is good for diesels.

- - - - -

Now, my wife takes her car in to the Toyota dealer for her oil changes. She is kind of set in her ways and trying to change this habit is going to get me much more pain than gain.

- - - -

About the only thing I won't do is rely on anyone else to put synthetic oil in one of my vehicles. If I am paying for having it changed I get plain old dino oil.

The reason is that it is just too easy to pay for synthetic and actually get dino. Maybe not even from malice, or them trying to cheat me. The issue is the guy who actually changes the oil is not the same guy who writes up your order. The guy who changes the oil uses regular oil 95+ percent of the time, and it is just too easy for him to just grab the usual hose to fill your oil. If you think he reads the paperwork for your specific car before he changes the oil, I have a nice bridge you want to buy. Then you have paperwork that says synthetic, but regular oil in the engine. This is reason number one why I change all my oil myself. Reason number two is it is faster than driving to some oil service place and waiting for the vehicle. Reason number three is that I usually use Wix filters.

 

[WilliamBos]

It depends on the vehicle.

For years I used Castrol Syntec (100% Synthetic) 5W-50, which I could get at Costco.

Then I bought a new car (BMW Roadster) and 50k miles of dealer service was included in the price. So, I just took that one to the dealer. I am selling that one soon, not because it isn't fun, but because it isn't very compatible with our 800 foot gravel driveway at the new house. It also isn't compatible with our two labs, and the neighbors' golden retriever and lab mix. (Whenever I drive anywhere near our property I have a pack of dogs following me, running in front, etc. I decided last year that if I stop & put the dogs in the bed of the truck they are safer from getting run over.)

I can't find the Castrol any longer at Costco, so I now use Mobil 1 Synthetic from Wally World, in my 2000 F-150. I try to get 5W-40, but if they are out of it at the time I need oil I will use 5W-30.

For my tractor, I had the dealer do the 50 hour service. An oil change is coming up this summer, and I will use the Mobil 1. The gallon in my garage right now has a CF rating, which means it is good for diesels.

- - - - -

Now, my wife takes her car in to the Toyota dealer for her oil changes. She is kind of set in her ways and trying to change this habit is going to get me much more pain than gain.

- - - -

About the only thing I won't do is rely on anyone else to put synthetic oil in one of my vehicles. If I am paying for having it changed I get plain old dino oil.

The reason is that it is just too easy to pay for synthetic and actually get dino. Maybe not even from malice, or them trying to cheat me. The issue is the guy who actually changes the oil is not the same guy who writes up your order. The guy who changes the oil uses regular oil 95+ percent of the time, and it is just too easy for him to just grab the usual hose to fill your oil. If you think he reads the paperwork for your specific car before he changes the oil, I have a nice bridge you want to buy. Then you have paperwork that says synthetic, but regular oil in the engine. This is reason number one why I change all my oil myself. Reason number two is it is faster than driving to some oil service place and waiting for the vehicle. Reason number three is that I usually use Wix filters.

So, just to confirm, if the oil is CF rated, then regardless of grade, it IS GOOD for a Diesel??

We have a block heater, so where do we get a heater for the hyrdo trans oil? Where is it installed, and is it plugged in like a block heater??

Thanks,

Will

 

[DMW]

We have a block heater, so where do we get a heater for the hyrdo trans oil? Where is it installed, and is it plugged in like a block heater??

Might be easier to change out your hydro oil to PetroCanada Duratran synthetic. An all season grade good to below -40. Personally, if it gets that low, I'm not going outside . Only place I found it was bulk distributor in 20 litre pails.
http://lubricants.petro-canada.ca/resource/download.aspx?type=TechData&iproduct=995&language=en
No seasonal change outs, and probably cheaper then installing a heater.

Dennis.

 

[CurlyDave]

So, just to confirm, if the oil is CF rated, then regardless of grade, it IS GOOD for a Diesel??

http://www.api.org/certifications/engineoil/categories/upload/EngineOilGuide2006.pdf

API is the American Petroleum Institute.

Essentially SJ, SL, and SM are current gasoline engine oils, CF and above are current diesel engine oils. I actually haven't bought any oil since late '06, and what I have is probably a less-than-current service grade. OTOH, since I haven't bought anything with a diesel engine since then either, the oil is OK for the engine I own.

I only have about a quart left in a gallon container. Mixing one quart of 2 year old oil with a least 4 or 5 quarts of newly-purchased oil is probably OK. At some point the oil is too old, just sitting in the container in your garage. I don't know what that point is.

I will bet that any oil you buy today will meet the most current specification.

 

[WilliamBos]

Canadian Tire sells Red Line Oil: Motor Oil

I prefer off the shelf, so we are going to run that.

Thanks,

Will

 

[tomd999]

Hiya,

I run Amsoil 10-30 Series 3000 in all my Diesels. Deere, Cummins, Cat, Detroit. They all do very well on it, very little consumption, good analysis, little bit better mileage on the over the road trucks, starts easy in the cold. (well, not 50c below, maybe 10 below F)

Just my 23 cents,

Tom

Oh, afterthought; The API rating codes such as "SE" and "CE" the first letter is for engine ignition type. S = Spark ignition (Gasoline) and C= Compression ignition (Diesel) and the second letter is the oil rating. (At least that's how it was told to me by a bulk oil distributor.

 

[RWEST]

Whatever oil you choose, the general consensus is to stay away from any that say "Energy Conserving" anywhere on the container. Supposedly, they don't have the add package that diesels require.

Don't know that I've ever seen any HDEO's that say that, tho...

Here Car Bibles : The Engine Oil Bible is some interesting reading. According to them, "C" means "Commercial" and "S" means "Service", although Tom's definition certainly makes more sense!!

To the guys using CF oil in their equipment, I dunno. Something a little more current (CI-4+ only goes in our diesel stuff) might prevent a problem. It would be no fun having an engine issue a thousand or so hours down the line, and then wondering if the oil caused it, y'know?

 

[rcowan]

Moble 1

 

[frank_miller]

Hiya,

I run Amsoil 10-30 Series 3000 in all my Diesels. Deere, Cummins, Cat, Detroit. They all do very well on it, very little consumption, good analysis, little bit better mileage on the over the road trucks, starts easy in the cold. (well, not 50c below, maybe 10 below F)

Amsoil does NOT make ANY Series 10-30 oil. They make a 5w-30 Series 3000..

I have used this oil along with there 15w-40 HDD&M..Outside of smoothier startups in below 0, the wears etc where not worth the huge price increase...from there 15w-40. I also used Rotella T 5w-40 since people down south like it like a cult..Not bad but no Amsoil

 

[tomd999]

Hi Frank,

Yep, your right, it's 5w-30 Series 3000. I should know it by now, been using it for years. I'm gonna go ahead and give myself a mulligan on this one, blame it on the Gen. John Stark vodka in the adult beverage I was partaking in...

Tom

"Live Free or Die"
as written by General John Stark on July 31, 1809