Toolcat Traction

   / Toolcat Traction #1  

debushau

Bronze Member
Joined
May 31, 2007
Messages
89
Location
PA/NJ
Tractor
JD4720, ASV Scout, XUV 550
I don't have a Toolcat but have been eyeing one for a few years now. One thing I have wondered about is whether a Toolcat suffers from traction loss compared to a CUT. In addition, do people run chains on the tires to make up for the difference? I particular, I am thinking about how it would fare on forest trails where a CUT would be too tippy to operate.
 
   / Toolcat Traction #2  
The R4 tires in general are not too good in mud compared to R1 ag tires. My TC will pull more than my JD 3720 CUT with R4s. I think it is because of the added weight of the TC and maybe due to the constant 4wd. Chains would not be hard to add if needed. Some people add the chains for snow. The turf tires are generally worse for traction in most conditions, however, some say better in snow.

If you are debating between a TC and CUT, consider the 5610 TC. I really like my 5610.
 
   / Toolcat Traction
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Thanks for the info. I actually have a CUT, a JD 3520 with R4's which I would keep and hence probably look at a 5600 TC. I am mostly interested in the Toolcat because the CUT doesn't work that well in a number of situations -

(a) my driveway is very steep in parts and CUT just doesn't have the grip to clear it all when it's icy - having to wait for the salt to work before going back up the hill gets old

(b) it's an open station CUT so an enclosed TC would be nice in winter

(c) the CUT is somewhat tippy and just doesn't work well on forest trails - the size is great but it's just too hairy at times, the TC seems like it would be rock stable and has more ROPS protection

(d) I prefer being able to see implements at the front and to be able to run implements that need some hydro capacity

(e) I was going to get a dump trailer but I can probably do without a dump trailer if I had a TC

(f) spouse doesn't like to ride ATV anymore and has been wanting to get a side-by-side so this can fill the bill

My main concerns with a TC are that it lacks ground clearance and might get hung up on logs or branches (since riding forest trails and moving logs around is probably the main use this will get). Another concern is that it just doesn't have the traction though since Radman says it outpulls a 3720 then that's probably not an issue. Another concern was the lifting capacity - 1500lb is okay but not a step up from the CUT.
 
   / Toolcat Traction #4  
The newer TCs will out lift your 3520. I have the 300cx loader on my cabbed 3720 and I turned up the psi to about 2900. I have a 36" tree spade and my 3720 can just barely lift it off the ground but not curl back. The TC will lift the spade to full height and curl back. It is widely known the TC will lift 2000 lbs and I believe it. The spade weighs about 1400-1500 lbs and hangs fairly far out in the front. No way I can lift the spade without some serious counter weight on the back of the 3720. The TC can lift it without any counter weight.

Clearance could be an issue but the 3x20 JD series is not that tall either. Depends on your trails. Heck, with the TC just clear the trail as you go!

The ride of the TC D series is really quite good. Not as good as newer side by side unit (RTV), but much nicer than a CUT.

The TC is much more stable on hillsides. I did a TC vs CUT comparison post recently under the buy/comparison forum. Check it out.
 
   / Toolcat Traction #5  
consider then getting a sump guard or whatever they call them in america.

last time i got in the scrub trying to rake a bit of fallen timber i hooked a branch which pulled off one of the return lines,

the underside of the machine needs decent guarding in other words.
 
   / Toolcat Traction
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Thanks for the feedback. Is it only the "D" series that has the better lift capacity or do both C and D fare equally well? I am going to take a look at a used low hours C and D over the weekend.
 
   / Toolcat Traction #7  
Nothing is flat on our property. The driveway that I plow/blow is a 12% north facing, paved grade (at 7,200' elev.). So in the winter there is often ice on it and I have to spread sand.

I have sold my SCUT (3 wheel drive) for the Toolcat (4wd) for many of the same reasons you list. Stability on slopes (lower center of gravity), traction (the TC has LSD's front and rear), better turning radius, enclosed cab, and easier operator controls (for my wife).

DEWFPO
 
   / Toolcat Traction #8  
The improvement in the loader capacity was made from the 'B' to the 'C' models. I believe the loader capacity is the same for 'C' and 'D' versions. I'm not aware of any modification that was made to the loader in the 'D' revision. Perhaps others can comment.
 
   / Toolcat Traction #9  
The newer TCs will out lift your 3520. I have the 300cx loader on my cabbed 3720 and I turned up the psi to about 2900. I have a 36" tree spade and my 3720 can just barely lift it off the ground but not curl back. The TC will lift the spade to full height and curl back. It is widely known the TC will lift 2000 lbs and I believe it. The spade weighs about 1400-1500 lbs and hangs fairly far out in the front. No way I can lift the spade without some serious counter weight on the back of the 3720. The TC can lift it without any counter weight.

How did you turn up the pressure?
 
   / Toolcat Traction #10  
3bladz

I have a 3720 with cab. The control valve for the hydraulics sits under the cab, just inside of the right rear tire. There is a small bolt on top with a locking nut on top of the control valve. Just back off (loosen) the locking nut with a wrench. The tighten down the bolt a little with a wrench. I checked the psi with a pressure gauge attached to a hose and then plugged the hydraulic hose into one of the rear outlets. Initial pressure was about 2500 psi and I increased it to around 2900 psi. Once you find the correct pressure just tighten down the lock nut again. Should have netted me about 18% increase in lift. I understand on the open station tractors the valve is harder to get to and may require removal of a panel or the seat. Mechanic at the dealer said don't go too much over 3000 psi because the hydraulics may start to chatter. Took me about 10-15 minutes to make it happen. I thought initially I might have to remove the rear tire but I could just reach around the tire. The valve is about 8x10" and 3" high. It sits right on top of the transmission.
 

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