1700 Engine Rebuild

   / 1700 Engine Rebuild
  • Thread Starter
#11  
More of the story...I used 2 nuts locked against each other to install the studs. Note the location of the short one. Second shot is the head gasket in place. Some of the coolant passages have a black rubber outline to seal, some don't.. The 3rd shot is the spacer that goes on the short stud down in the intake passage. 4th is the head torqued down and last is the rocker arms installed and clerance set for .012. That is all for tonight. Tomorrow is a holiday so I will have more time to work on the tractor.

RusseLL
 

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   / 1700 Engine Rebuild #12  
Nice work. Thanks for the pictures and the descriptions.

Are you gonna put the 2wd back into service also?

That's odd that there's no level or drain plugs in that other pump, what were they thinking there? must have been an early model or they just forgot to drill and tap, the knock outs are there.
Here's a pic of me injecting oil thru that little level hole, your way is easier, JC informed of that as well.

JB.
 

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   / 1700 Engine Rebuild #13  
My 2 cents worth on injector pumps. Note the first picture of my other 2WD tractor. There are no drain or fill level plugs. I looked on the back side and none there either.
Anyway I got the bolts and mounted the injector pump on my rebuild engine. The second shot shows the wittness mark to align the pump itself. Third is the 3.4 oz of oil to fill the injector. 4 is the flange mount for the gear and 5 is the gear installed. Note the timing mark on the 2 gears and also the wittness mark straight up on the pump gear. With marks aligned and bolted I removed the front fitting spring and plunger from the top of the pump shown in picture 6. I just followed the instructions in the book to use a dial indicator picture 7 and checked the timing one more time. Everything was just right.

Hey Russell,

Looking better all the time. I'm following your progress intently. Quite curious not to have drain and level plug for injector, at least you had to invert the injector pump alone to drain rather than the whole tractor :eek::eek:since you had the injector pump off. Take a look at the thread below and the injector pump question been asked on several occasion.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...tor-pump-oil.html?highlight=injector+pump+oil

Need to study your pics from close.

JC,
 
   / 1700 Engine Rebuild
  • Thread Starter
#14  
JC,
That injector is on the other tractor. I will have to take it off and remove the bottom cover to find out if I can drill, tap and plug in the original cast locations. I haven't decided if I will fix the other tractor or part it out.

RusseLL
 
   / 1700 Engine Rebuild #15  
Nice work. Thanks for the pictures and the descriptions.

Are you gonna put the 2wd back into service also?

That's odd that there's no level or drain plugs in that other pump, what were they thinking there? must have been an early model or they just forgot to drill and tap, the knock outs are there.
Here's a pic of me injecting oil thru that little level hole, your way is easier, JC informed of that as well.

JB.

Hey John,

I know the manual recommended to fill the oil like you've shown. but What i did was I opened the fill from top , drained from the bottom hole. I then opened the level hole, closed the drain hole and used a tiny funnel on top and poured the oil in till it came out of the middle level hole. I then closed the level hole and put the cap on. On many outboard engine filling oil in the lower transmission is recommended as you have shown. I reckon end result is the same.

JC,
 
   / 1700 Engine Rebuild #16  
JC,
That injector is on the other tractor. I will have to take it off and remove the bottom cover to find out if I can drill, tap and plug in the original cast locations. I haven't decided if I will fix the other tractor or part it out.

RusseLL

Russel,

Why would not you drill the hole where it was intended. It seems the casting on the side shows where the drain and level hole needed to be. I hate to drill and tap from the bottom and cause internal injury to the pump guts.

JC,

Your injector shows where the holes need to be drilled and tapped.

dsc03568un4.jpg



Russel, My bad .. I just noticed you were going to do what I suggested . Hate to get stuff in to the pump cavity during drilling and tapping. By the way, do take picture of inside the pump if you will.

My witness mark for the injector pump on the outside.

dsc07131hv3.jpg
 
   / 1700 Engine Rebuild
  • Thread Starter
#17  
JC,
In your wittness mark picture I noticed the attach bolt was different from my original bolts that I lost. My bolts were slightly longer and had screwdriver flats to loosen and make adjustments from the outside, without removing the timing cover. You could use a common screwdriver and a wrench to loosen, rotate pump slightly and tighten. The bolts I ordered were the same as yours, common bolts. With the method I used to time the pump I hope I don't have to re-adjust.

RusseLL
 
   / 1700 Engine Rebuild #18  
JC,
In your wittness mark picture I noticed the attach bolt was different from my original bolts that I lost. My bolts were slightly longer and had screwdriver flats to loosen and make adjustments from the outside, without removing the timing cover. You could use a common screwdriver and a wrench to loosen, rotate pump slightly and tighten. The bolts I ordered were the same as yours, common bolts. With the method I used to time the pump I hope I don't have to re-adjust.

RusseLL


Russell,

I don't ink there is a difference between timing mark (witness mark) on the inside vs outside. I don't think it is expected to remove the timing cover off each time you time the injector. In your case you were doing an overhaul and probably could put timing mark on the outside as well.

JC,
 
   / 1700 Engine Rebuild
  • Thread Starter
#19  
The point is that you can not tighten the bolt without the screwdriver flat unless you remove the timing cover. With the screwdriver flat you can loosen, adjust and retighten from the outside.

RusseLL
 
   / 1700 Engine Rebuild
  • Thread Starter
#20  
Here is a picture of the injector pump attach bolts, see the screwdriver flat?

While getting ready to install the thermostat, I noticed an extra hole in the gasket. Sure enough there was a hole in the housing that was blocked with corrosion. I took a drill bit and cleaned it out. In years past we used to punch a small hole in the thermostat for an air vent. This tractor comes with a built in air vent. What this hole does is allow air/coolant past the thermostat so it will fill completly without warming up the engine until the thermostat opens.

Russell
 

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