Fire Extinguisher Checks

[kthompson]

Some twist to open and some have a little push in spot. Think if you get to where you can see them straight on with flashlight you will find the instructions in their molding.

 

[Bird]

Some twist to open and some have a little push in spot. Think if you get to where you can see them straight on with flashlight you will find the instructions in their molding.

This is just hilarious. With a flashlight and magnifying glass, I found, on the perimeter, instructions to turn it clockwise to remove it. Well, that sounded great, but it removes the whole thing, except for a "base" that stays on the wall. And I stil could not figure out how to get it apart to see inside. But it's a "Lifesaver model 1225". OK, I look for that on the Internet, and what do I find. Well, I'm not the only one with the problem. On another discussion forum (allexperts.com), someone else asked the same question and the answer he got was:

Some of these detectors can be like a puzzle box to get open so you can replace the battery.

I tried some research on your detector. It's made by Kidde, but apparantly is an old model, and I could not locate a manual.

I have to say, as I have many times on this venue, that some manufacturers recommend replacing smoke detectors afer 7 or so years. They're so cheap, I can't argue with them.

If you're handy with hand tools, it's not a difficult job. But many folks are reluctant to try. S'okay. Any electrician will be able to do the job in short order.

Smoke detectors are required vitually everywhere in new residential construction. Local electricians usually get this work. So plan on 65-75 bucks for an hour of labor, and about 15-20 each for the detectors

On a more recent discussion, someone said he got his opened (didn't say how) and there was no battery backup. So, once again, the recommendation was to replace it.

 

[George2615]

I check many extinguishers at work on a monthly basis (mainly ABC and CO2). On dry chemical one way to check is to turn it upside down and wait a few seconds. You should feel a thud as the dry chemical that was in the bottom drops to the top. Then check the gauge to be sure its in the green. Sometimes you need to tap on the gauge since it might be stuck reading full yet the extinguisher may be empty. Check the hose for no blockage or signs of leakage.

At work ours are also checked annually by an extinguisher company. They also test them every 6 years. They do hydrostatic and full dump and refill tests depending on how old they are. Other types may vary. I have several at home as well and take them in for them to test every 6 years as well.

I don't have the hose plugging insect problem but have seen it. Sometimes mud wasps or other insects will move into the hose and block it off.

 

[medicshawn]

They also recommend changing smoke detectors after 10 years they should have a date of manufacture on the rear. If in doubt replace them. Cheap insurance.

I would also recommend looking at a water extinguisher (water can). You can find some cheap ones on Ebay. Not good for grease/gasoline type or electrical fires. But for general combustables they make less of a mess and are easily refillable.

 

[Bird]

Those water cans are pretty expensive. Why not just use your garden hose?

 

[J_J]

I have watched the fire extinguisher inspectors check those fire extinguishers for businesses and I believe that it is done on a regular schedule. What I saw them do, was, check the date, and if in date, check the pressure reading, and then they would take a rubber mallet and tap all around the extinguisher to loosen up the powder inside. If the powder did not move at all, they replaced the extinguisher.

 

[Bird]

Now I don't know why I didn't think of that. I have a rubber mallet, so I just beat my fire extinguisher quite enthusiastically, and I can't tell anything moved inside it. But the needle is still in the green. I may yet have to pull the pin and try it out, out of curiosity, then go buy a new one.

 

[Treemonkey1000]

I forgot about the rubber mallet trick. Bird you be careful you might end up using the mallet on them smoke detectors.. They are a pain though to undo. I take care of my Dad's so that he doesn't get up on the step stool. And I have been replacing them way more often than the extinguishers.. Good point. I have the CO and Smoke detector type upstairs near the bedrooms. Gas furnace and wood stove so I don't want to wake up Dead..

 

[Bird]

Jim, when we were full time RVers, we had a CO detector in the bedroom and an LPG leak detector in the kitchen area in addition to the smoke detector. But now we're in a total electric home and only have smoke detectors. Of course, I think they're both working properly, in spite of their age, and we have the fire extinguisher, actually in the garage, but that's just the other side of the door from the kitchen/dining area. I like the idea of a battery backup type of smoke detector, but I don't know that they're worth the extra cast.

 

[Zephrant]

I bought a "Explosive gas and CO detector" and both times we had NG leaks at work, it read zero. I dug out the fine print, and it says it detects Propane and gasoline... Seams miss-marked to me.

Our work extinguishers are inspected by the fire marshal and re-tagged yearly around here.