Oil & Fuel Rear Hydro Oil drain won't budge

guyross · Apr 21, 2009

After trying a 1/2 rachet with a short extention and then a 22" breaker dar. With no sucess. I am haveing no luck with a hammer and chisle. I think the guy before me used som sort of thred lock. Anybody have any suggestions?

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jinman · Apr 21, 2009

Are you sure you are going in the "lefty-loosey" direction? If I was doing this job, I'd drain all I could get out of the front drain and call it good.

guyross · Apr 21, 2009

Yea I"m almost shure I was going the right direction even though it did cross my mind I might be going the wrong way. I got a good 5 gallons out of the front plug and a lot more when I took off the hydro filter located under the left running board on this 1984 4610. The oil looked bad so I need to get it all if possible.

Hooked_on_HP · Apr 21, 2009

I have had to use an impact on several drain plugs when a breaker bar wouldn't budge it. If the drain plug has a 1/2" female square, put a short extension on the impact so you get a good bite.
Bill

RickB · Apr 22, 2009

The 4610 transmission is separate from the rear axle/hydraulic reservoir. If it is 4WD, you can drain the drop box and the rear axle will be empty. The hydraulic filter you mention is supposed to have a ckeck valve in the suction tube, you shouldn't have lost much in theat change. It is possible to loosen that filter enough to open that check valve and let most of the oil out that way. If you have a remote valve, you can run a hose into a 5 gallon pail and pump most of the oil out. That will take two buckets if the rear axle is full.

Good luck getting the plug out; that's the best result. Heating it with a torch, then letting it cool before attempting removal BEFORE draining most of the oil is quite effective.

guyross · Apr 22, 2009

I should have mentioned all the fluid was comeing out when the filter was partialy removed. When I completly removed it the fluid stoped. That must have ingauged the check valve. I have spayed it down with Break Free and left it overnight. I will shoot it again before I go to work. When I get home I will heat it up some with a propane torch and chisle on it some more. I have one remote I could use. It must be safe to run the tractor dry or you wouldn't have recomended it. Good idea I just a rookie trying not to make any fatal errors. Thanks Rick!

RickB · Apr 22, 2009

If you have to pump it out using a remote valve, just shut the tractor off as soon as it starts to suck air.

guyross · Apr 22, 2009

Thanks everyone I got it. I used heat,Break Free,chisel and hammer to remove it. I think next time I will look at letting the tractor pump it out through the remote valve. That just sounds so easy.

RickB · Apr 23, 2009

Easy is seldom best. Removing the drain plug will flush heavier debris from the housing far, far better than pumping the oil out.

jinman · Apr 23, 2009

Well, I'm glad you didn't listen to me and finally got the plug out.

Did you see any indication why the plug was so seized up? Do you thnk moisture condensation may have settled around the plug an caused this? I've never had problems with the plugs on my tractor, so this really surprised me. How much additional oil did you get out with the plug removed?