JD for 10 acreas on a $7500 budget (to start)

[indytim]

I had posted another thread (JD for 10 acres on $5-6000 budget) and got some great feedback there. It has caused me to re-think this project and also establish a more realistic budget. Hence the new thread -- I'm afraid the old one was a bit misleading in the title.

I'm buying a house on 10 acres. The land is 6 acres of mowable brush (some trees) with a few steep hills and a creek, as well as 4 acres of yard/nice grassy pasture.

I'll need a tractor for several tasks:

- primarily mowing the front yard and grassy pasture (4 acres)
- secondarily in terms of frequency of use, rotary sweeping the 1/4 mile paved driveway

Other projects (that I know of)
- lots and lots of fence posts to set (at least 3000' feet of fencing)
- landscaping (mulch beds, gravel beds along the fence lines)
- hauling

I don't expect to do any digging, other than postholes, so if I need equipment for that (like a backhoe) I'll rent it.

I have an older commercial-type walk behind that will handle up to an acre of mowing, which covers the backyard and trimming, and there are few obstacles so I've decided I don't need to pick up a dedicated large mower.

So I've decided I'll need a CUT with a large MMM for the primary tasks and first purchase. I'll pick up the rotary broom, trailer, rotary mower as opportunities come up - no real urgency there. Eventually I'll add an FEL and posthole digger but that can wait 'til next year. (I'll hire out the brush mowing for now.)

It looks I can spend $7500-8000 and end up with a nice JD with a 60" MMM. I hate to have stuff break so I'd like to find something low hour, reliable, that I don't have to fix much.

Questions:
- Do I really need MFWD? (I think I do, because of the hills, and because I'd hate to buy a 2WD then find out I really need 4WD.)
- Do I really need hydro? (I want it, but do I need it?)
- Isn't there a posthole digger that mounts on a trailer I can drag around? (I want to stay with a smaller CUT for manuverability, and I have a BUNCH of fencing to put in, so I wouldn't mind investing in overkill for the PHD.)

Thinking about these tractors:
- 855 (in the right price range, and built like a tank from what I read)
- 4100 (not as powerful as the 855 but newer)
- 2305 (seems to be smaller chassis but more modern engine with power equal to the 855???. This is a bit of a stretch pricewise, but it looks like I may be able to land one with a cash offer of $8k or so.)

Essentially if I peg the price at $7500-8000 I'm looking at 3 generations of CUT in the JD line -- 755/855, 4100/4110, 2305.

If I can find a solid 855 with low hours, what can I expect to go wrong? It's an older tractor, so what components are susceptible to age?

Thanks for the great feedback everyone.

 

[Johndeere3720]

Have you thought of a used Johndeere 2210? It is the model before the 2305 and it woreks great. I have always used the MMM, arena harrow, boxblade, graderblade, and imatch quick hitch behind it. I love it! I wish it had a loader and R4 tires. Good luck! maybe try craigs list and used equippment at your local dealer.

 

[crashz]

Well it sounds like you've really thought this out. I'd say your looking in the right ball park, but for the price and chassis size I would think you might want to remove the 2305 off the list. Its kind of low to the ground for serious brush cutting. But then again its the best choice for the lawn.

If you are comforatble with a clutch, even on hills, a gear drive machine might not be a bad choice. You should be able to find a nice low hour 770 like mine or a 790, even with the loader that will do a great job on these tasks. In this application I'd suggest loaded turf tires (on any machine) for stability and the least amount of lawn damage. For ease of use, I'd suggest a 3pt hitch finish mower for the tractor.

The 855 was a really reliable machine. I'd say the only things that might become problems would be rust if it was used in the winter extensively and maybe dry rotted tires if left outside. Little things like replacing fluids and filters should be on your list. I went through my cooling system and replace the hoses, thermostat, sensor and coolant. I was amazed at the corrosion.

Good luck and don't forget the pics when you buy!

 

[indytim]

Have you thought of a used Johndeere 2210? .

Thanks, no, but I'll take a look.

 

[Johndeere3720]

The 2210 even has hyrdostatic transmission!

 

[indytim]

...but for the price and chassis size I would think you might want to remove the 2305 off the list. Its kind of low to the ground for serious brush cutting. But then again its the best choice for the lawn.

Yes, my gut's telling me the 2305 is just too small, although for a reliability a newer tractor would be nice. But I'll take size/power over newness if we're holding the cost constant.

If you are comforatble with a clutch, even on hills, a gear drive machine might not be a bad choice. You should be able to find a nice low hour 770 like mine or a 790, even with the loader that will do a great job on these tasks. In this application I'd suggest loaded turf tires (on any machine) for stability and the least amount of lawn damage. For ease of use, I'd suggest a 3pt hitch finish mower for the tractor.

"Loaded" turf tires? I've been thinking about the tires -- I definitely have to protect the lawn, but I also want to make sure I have some traction on the slopes (these are brushy), especially if it's damp. Is there a tire that's a bit more aggressive than the standard turf tire that will still not tear up the front yard (I'm not worried about the pasture too much.)

Also, you mention a 3pt finish mower - you mean rather than a MMM? I thinking MMM for manuverability, mainly in the corners when I'm up along fences. Out in the open it doesn't matter, I guess. Why finish rather than MMM? I'm also assuming I don't want use a finish or MMM on the brush -- it's been mowed before so it's not too heavy but I'm guessing it's still going to dull the blades quickly.

Coming up to speed, still have a lot to learn. Thanks again.

 

[indytim]

I had 770/790 on my list at first, but took them off because of the gears. I can drive gears, no problem. I'm just thinking that for FEL work (when I get there), the hydro would be nice. And hydro would be nice for the wife, so she can drag her own da*n arena.

But does "nice" = "required"? Everyone got by without hydro for years. How big a deal is it? I know I won't really get it until I actually use the thing for these tasks, but again, I don't want to buy something then realize I need something else.

Which is why I'm coming down on the cautious side and sticking with the hydrostatic, but I'm happy to be convinced I don't really need it. It would save me some money and/or open the door to a bigger machine. (Wife will probably never drive it anyway.)

 

[Johndeere3720]

R4 tires are best for your needs. Ive used my dads 3720 with R4s on grass and they work great. Just stay in 2wd when on the lawn or it will do some tearing. The nice thing about the rear finish mower is it is easier to remove leaving lots of clearance under the tractor. The nice thing about the MMM is that you can have another implement on the back and a loader/sweeper on the front. The thing about the MMM is that if the implement on the back has a lower link where it isnt wide enough to catch the bent piece of metal that lifts the MMM, the MMM will drag on the ground and get beat up. I got the imatch quick hitch to make this not happen and make easier implement changes.

 

[indytim]

The 2210 even has hyrdostatic transmission!

Looks like the price and power are good for the 2210, and I'd probably do this over a 2305. But I am worried about the chassis size.. I'm concerned about getting into (and out of) the more irregular terrain on the property, for instance down around the creek.

Can bigger wheels be installed on the 2210/2305? Roughly, what's the cost of a new set of wheels/tires?

 

[RWolf]

A rear mounted mower will be easier to get into tight corners. Also with a MMM in order to do any work except mowing in the rough you might find that the MMM will have to be removed and how easily that's done depends. You could also pick up a rotory cutter (shredder) for the rougher cutting and you can get them fairly cheaply as your needs don't sound like you need a HD model. For tires you could go with the R-4's which are abit more aggresive than turfs but less than R-1's. Loading the tires will add more stability for the hills (keep it to about 50% to keep the Center of gravity low). If your post hole digging is going to be a one time shot then you could purchase a low end digger and then sell it after you don't need it anymore. FEL's are always a good investment but will generally cost you more to add later.