Have had for several years a KK 6.5 angle frame disk pulled behind my TC30 with Hydrostactic tranny . Were I live in Southern Oregon is a clay type soil that with moisture , can be worked pretty good . Without moisture , use the backhoe instead .
First thing I fixed was the arms from the top of the top link connection to the back of the frame . These were bolted on thus limiting the amount of adjustment that could be made to back axles . They are now instead welded to the inside of the frame , thus freeing up more space to be less agressive on back axles .
Second was weight . First added a 4' piece of 3" x 12" x 3/8" I-beam welded on top and at back of frame . On top of that I placed a old 40 gallon galvanized water tank . Depending on moisture content in soil , I run it from 1/2 full to topped off , ( like it is now ) .
Third was axle spacing / design . Was not impressed with results when confined to a single pass area , ( going between a tree and fence for example ) . Sure can turn around and go back through , but regardless of angle settings on front or back , Front being cupped out , would always throw more out than back would pull in , thus either leaving a trough in middle , with hills on both sides . Or trench's down both sides through the middle of the hills on the outside .
First tried reversing the blades on front from cupped out to cupped in . But as with the boxed frame , the angle of front axle is wrong , ( to cup in , the axle needs to be angled back from center like picture shows in original post of the back axle ) .
So then added 4" x 8" x 1/2" steel to tops of the axle mounting brackets changing angle of axle's to angle back from center . Was going to drill additional holes to bolt solid , but since it was working great in both virgin passes as well as additional passes , just welded in place .
A problem during that process was that front axles were to close initially in center , ( was using smaller steel ) , which caused build-up between axles , thus I used the larger , longer steel pieces .
Next problem with that though was center would not get disk in those single pass areas . Added and welded 2 pieces of 4" x 3/8" steel from bottom of top link connection down past front of frame with holes drilled high and low and inserted a 16" ripper from Agri Supply , ( used in box blades ) .
When needed for those single pass areas , I drop the ripper and proceed . Tears up the middle ground pretty good and after the disk passes completely by , it looks like just the disk came through with no trough down middle . Areas were ripper is not needed since I can over lap passes , I raise ripper and pin in place .
Those pieces of steel are also welded to front of frame providing more support .
Were I was piling soil up against fence line , is now working its way back to a level surface .
Terrain : UGH !! Here is were it gets ugly . Worst grade is 12.7 % , That's from the high point in Northeast corner to low point in Southwest corner . Going downhill , SWEET !! Going uphill , Better have weight in FEL bucket to keep front axle with traction , especially after each pass . All I am doing is making fire breaks down south and west side's of property , and keeping the weeds from growing on both sides of our right-a-way for driveway . Driveway is not bad , as it flattens out about half way down .
But returning back up past that half way mark , need weight in front end .
Speed also makes a huge difference in how a disk finishes soil . For initial passes , I am in low range . Finish passes , I go up to middle range . Soil then lays out flatter . My brother who still farms here , has the hired help run the same way with a 16' disk behind a challenger .
Someday I will find my camera cord to connect to my computer , ( which has disappeared into a deep hole some were ) , thus be able to post pictures again . Course , could just buy a new cord , but then would find other and have 2 then .
Take Care ,
Fred H.
