OP
rankrank1
Platinum Member
- Joined
- May 23, 2007
- Messages
- 749
- Location
- SW OH - near Dayton, OH
- Tractor
- 1978 Kubota L285, 1951 Farmall h, 1946 Farmall m, 1950 John Deere A, 1953 Ford NAA Golden Jubilee, 195? Ford 850, 1948 Case DC, 1948 Case SC
You're right about the economics of hobby haying. Continual expense and little or no profit in dollars. I've replaced the sickle sections on my $550 MF-41 sicklebar mower (cost: $30) and need to replace the ledger plates on the guards. TSC sells the guard/ledger assemby for $10 each, so $280 to replace all of them. AgriSupply sells ledger plates for $3 each but the old rivets have to be drilled out and the new ledgers riveted into place. My MF dealer wants $5 each for the ledger plates.
I've looked into small disc and drum mowers (6-7 ft size) that would fit my Mahindra 5525 (54 hp engine, 45 hp pto). Good used ones cost at least $2K; beaters still get $1K or better. I can buy a lot of sickle bar parts for $2K.
I noticed that you run your bush hog in the level position.
Question: have you experimented with running your bush hog tilted forward (front down, rear up) to see if it cuts better?
One more question: is your hayfield natural pasture grass? If not, what equipment do you use for tilling and planting?
I have been trying to make my haying enterprise pay for itself so to speak. (not counting the tractor and bushhog which I have owned for 10 years and had previously used to maintain the pasture anyway). I actually have very little invested in dollars in all my haying equipment, but admittingly quite a bit of sweat equity in getting it refurbished and usable, but I enjoy doing that sort of thing.
NH 65 baler $200 (have put about another $140 in parts on it). The JD 594 rake pictured have less than $50 in it. Old New Idea 30A Sickle bar mower which is not pictured since I have not even used yet $75 (I think it needs about another $45 worth of parts at minumum). I just bought another JD 594 rake (not pictured) that is in very good condition for $90, but does need some tines. And lastly I bought a small flat bed trailer for $180 that I use for getting the hay out of the field but I also use it for other things too so it serves as a multi-purpose tool for me. It is an old pop camper chasis of size 7'X14' , but it works great for my needs as it sits very low to the ground. Real easy for me to stack bales on from the ground while using my pick up truck.
My pasture: Have done very little to it. Have subsoiled with the same little tractor, as it is the only one that I own, a few times to help drainage and compaction from horses by previous home owner. Have hand broadcasted some seed in some thin areas before. I am only in year 2 of haying so I have also purposesly let the desirable grasses go to seed so the existing grass seed could then seed the thin areas (in essence free seed). I do have a 1 bottom plow, a 3 pt MF disc (that is actually too big for my tractor) but have only ever used them in my wife's garden. I also have purchased a cheap $100 culti-packer that I plan try out in the future in some areas, but have not done it yet.
I prefer to run my bushog level as it discharges cleanly. I agree running some models with the back tilted higher may help some brands of rotary cutter discharge better, but having your cutting blade not level can also potentially increase the number of small clippings that will not be able to be raked or baled. (e.g. when the front of you blade is cutting 4 inches from the ground then the back will be cutting 7 inches from ground. When the fast spinning blade spins around it will then leave a short 3 inch clipping that may be missed by the the rake or baler further decreasing your yield). In short, I think running it tilted will create more short clippings, but may not if you travel slow enough with the tractor so the that front blade edge does all the cutting so to speak.