Shop Tricks

   / Shop Tricks #71  
In Re: washing machine

I agree with the clogged inlet screen.

The HOT side won't clog on account of all the crud settling out in the HOT-water heater.

My COLD side clogged nearly weekly, until I got smart and put one of those whole-house filters in the COLD hose.:cool:
 
   / Shop Tricks #72  
I use a tap to remove pilot bearings. Insert the tap of proper size and when the tap bottoms out against the flywheel keep turning and it will
ppush the bearing out. Works every time
 
   / Shop Tricks #73  
I use a tap to remove pilot bearings. Insert the tap of proper size and when the tap bottoms out against the flywheel keep turning and it will
ppush the bearing out. Works every time


That one's a winner.

I have read dozens of pilot-bearing removal tricks, but that is the first time I ever saw that one.

Thanks.:)
 
   / Shop Tricks #74  
Need to remove a broken key from a cylinder lock. Take a coping saw blade and break off one end pin, then grind a slight taper on the back side of the blade. Insert into the cylinder so that the blade's teeth grab the notches on the broken key and pull out the broken piece.

If you need to limit access to someone whom you trusted with a key--purposely break of a key that fits the lock and push into the cylinder--no other key can be inserted--the above tool lets you remove it when you want access. We used this trick to "lockout" tenants (illegal of course) when we needed to dunn them for overdue rent. Whose to say how a key got broken in the lock.
I am a electrician the florescent lights you are talking about are not very efficient compared to the new ones.

They were more than likely T12 bulbs, they will be removed form the markets soon just like the incandescent bulbs.

They will only be T8 bulbs available. There will also be a T5 bulb but they are more expensive and less efficient.

We have a contract with Orion lighting they make high bay fluorescent lighting. When we go into a facility and change out there old light with our new ones, it is twice as bright and only use about 1/4 of the power.

The last plant we did we change out 168 lights for about 38000dollars and in about a year and nine months they will recoup all of there investment in monthly energy savings.

They make fluorescent that will go in -40 and start with no problem every time. Technology changes every day. Soon the incandescent bulbs with be a thing of the past.

The screw in fluorescent bulbs use about a 1/4 of the energy as a incandescent bulb. A 26watt fluorescent is the same as 100w incandescent bulb.

Now you can get fluorescent bulb with a higher color rendering factor. The use a scale in K's a 3500k is a yellow light like a incandescent bulb. A 5000k is more like sun light. The real sun is 10000K. The 5000K make a big difference when you are trying to work on things and need good light compared to that old yellowish light.

The 8' fluorescent bulbs are also obsolete.

The other reason you hear homing and the bulbs pulse is because the old lights that you are talking about are magnetic ballast, they do not make them any more either. All of the new fixture use electronic ballast that do not hum or pulse and are quick starting.

My advise get a good electrician or a electrical supply house and have them look at your current lighting and see what they recommend. You might be surprised to find how much money you could save and how much fluorescent lighting has changed.

A good electrician should be able to replace your current lighting one for one and save you at least half the energy and get twice the light and a better quality of light.

I hope I enlightened you on fluorescent lighting. If any thing I said was unclear just ask and I will try to help.
 
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   / Shop Tricks #75  
do they or will they make inexpensive screw in (standard base)flor. that don't burn out way way to premature , ?
Such in my basement situation. Ill turn the lights one and walk down and out and shut off. These bulbs burn out way to soon. So I'm back the incandescent lights again.But in this application incandescent bulb will last years.
thanks for the explanation it is interesting
 
   / Shop Tricks #76  
That's my issue too. I'm fine with replacing incandescent bulbs where they are used heavily (although they don't last as advertised). But out in the barn or the garage, the lights get turned on rarely and are usually only on for a few minutes. High cost to replace something that uses less than 25 cents of energy per year. And fluorescent bulbs don't last long in those applications. I think we need to start stocking up on incandescent bulbs while they are still available and affordable.

From an environmental standpoint, "proper disposal" of fluorescent bulbs is a high cost proposition. Most will be tossed with the regular trash. It would probably cost me $10-15 in gas to find a disposal location for fluorescent bulbs. I have 3 or 4 old 4' bulbs sitting in a corner for years that I can't get rid of. Tell me about how these are "more environmental friendly".

Ken
 
   / Shop Tricks #77  
>> EXTRA LONG TEST LEAD <<


I took a male and a female 110-volt extension-cord end and wired two alligator clips into each one, connecting the white "common" and green "GROUND" to the black GROUND alligator clip, and the black "hot" to the red HOT alligator clip.

I used medium-large alligators, big enough to grab the battery posts, for the battery end and smaller alligators at the "test" end.

I can now plug my alligator-clip adapters into any old extension-cord and use it for an extra long test lead.;)

It is a good idea to keep these adapters locked safely away if idiots or curious children are about, as one might plug one into a wall socket and get a new hairdo.:eek:


I have always refered to a lead with a mains power plug and bare connectors as a "death lead".:eek: Even after 30+ yrs in electronics I won't have one around. I would NEVER mix a high voltage cable with low voltage fitting as you have done. If you must use mains cable, they should NOT have connectors that can be plugged into mains power under ANY circumstances.

Just reading this "hint" sent a shiver down my spine. Even your last comment about locking it away from idiots does not make an unsafe practice safe.

Cityfarma
 
   / Shop Tricks #78  
Now you can get fluorescent bulb with a higher color rendering factor. The use a scale in K's a 3500k is a yellow light like a incandescent bulb. A 5000k is more like sun light. The real sun is 10000K. The 5000K make a big difference when you are trying to work on things and need good light compared to that old yellowish light. ...snip snip...

Small correction - the real sun is 10,000F or 5780K (Kelvin).

Now I feel obligated to post a tip :)

To spray insecticide into a tree or the high peaks of a house where the wasps like to nest, tape the wand of a pump sprayer to your leaf blower so the liquid is entrained in the air stream. It works GREAT. Of course it's a super duper yard fogger too. Be mindful of prevailing winds.
 
   / Shop Tricks #79  
Even to me (Mr cheapo) I could use the cord but remove the ends on it.(use just the wire itself). If it was a concern having the 'adapter' anywhere around.Perhaps even find an old cord in the dump.I reuse allot of vacuum cleaner cords all the time a few of these together would give the length.
 
   / Shop Tricks #80  
I have always refered to a lead with a mains power plug and bare connectors as a "death lead".:eek: Even after 30+ yrs in electronics I won't have one around. I would NEVER mix a high voltage cable with low voltage fitting as you have done. If you must use mains cable, they should NOT have connectors that can be plugged into mains power under ANY circumstances.

Just reading this "hint" sent a shiver down my spine. Even your last comment about locking it away from idiots does not make an unsafe practice safe.

Cityfarma


Just like driving a truck, operating a tractor, or eating at a fast-food resturant, there are dangers all around us; having a 110/12-volt adapter or two around is way down on my list of ways to get killed.:)
 

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