GeoTextile Fabric: other brands? any driveway advice?

[Flatheadyoungin]

I've been in contact with a US 200 geotextile fabric distributer. Their rolls are 432' long, 12.5' wide and $360 per roll+ tax.

Are there other brands I should consider? Is there a better quality product out there? I really don't want to cheap out on this. I have to live with it for the rest of my life and have 1200'+ to put in, so I want it right the first time.

I've calculated that I need about 300 ton of crusher run. Does this sound right at about 12.5' wide, 1000' long (give or take, probably closer to 1200' when I put some around the barn and make a turn around), 4" deep......

Any other advice? I've read most of the driveway threads on here but just want to make sure I don't over-look anything; drainage, culverts, crown, long sweeping curves, keep grade angle down, still keep the wooded drive looking nice, etc.....

I've spent some time on the dozer and it's coming together. If I can keep my pace and the weather holds out, I may be ready for aggregate in about 2 months.

Thanks!

 

[forester2]

Sounds like you're going thru the woods sojust make sure you clear the trees back far enough so you have pelenty of room not only for your car, but any trucks that will becoming in; concrete, moving, fire tructs etc. Also, the more sun you let in, the faster driveway drys and snow melts. Crown and ditches on both sides provides good drainage and adds to longevity of road. Don't be cheap on culvert pipes; min. 30' especially at the road. I've built my roads with bank run gravel as opposed to crusher; cheaper, binds better, then top with a special topping my local pit makes.

 

[Flatheadyoungin]

some good advice, thanks....

elaborate on the 30' culvert......

also, how is bank run different than the crusher run? i haven't called anywhere, yet, but a buddy just bought quite a bit of crusher run and said it was 3/4" minus, fines and dust.......his set up like concrete but is a little spongy in the winter.....i thought good drainage and fabric may help with some of this....

yeah, i'd like to get it right........after you buy 300 tons of something, you don't just tear it out and start again:confused2:

edit: yes, i'm going through the woods.....i'm going to try and balance keeping trees with knowing that very little sunlight will make the snow/ice buildup and be a bear to deal with.......the bad part is, the way the road runs, to catch the morning sun, i'd have to cut down all of the trees on the south side......

we'll see, i can always cut them down as the need arises, i'll keep too many for now and thin them later.....it's just hard to cut down 50+ year old trees...
thanks for the help!

Sounds like you're going thru the woods sojust make sure you clear the trees back far enough so you have pelenty of room not only for your car, but any trucks that will becoming in; concrete, moving, fire tructs etc. Also, the more sun you let in, the faster driveway drys and snow melts. Crown and ditches on both sides provides good drainage and adds to longevity of road. Don't be cheap on culvert pipes; min. 30' especially at the road. I've built my roads with bank run gravel as opposed to crusher; cheaper, binds better, then top with a special topping my local pit makes.

 

[Wesdor]

We have a relatively short driveway of about 400 feet (compared to yours). We put down the geo fabric and then a lot of crushed rock. You might want to consider putting a larger size rock down at the bottom of the drive and then filling in with the 3/4". By all means be sure you have the fines since that is what will help hold everything together.

Unfortunately the rock won't be setup hard enough to stay there when you plow snow in the winter. Don't ask me how I know (smile), but you can have a lot of rock out in the lawn if you aren't careful when plowing snow.

It sounds to me like you are on the right track. You won't be sorry that you put down the fabric.

 

[Flatheadyoungin]

i've wondered about plowing/blowing/scraping the snow off of the driveway if i used crusher run....

We have a relatively short driveway of about 400 feet (compared to yours). We put down the geo fabric and then a lot of crushed rock. You might want to consider putting a larger size rock down at the bottom of the drive and then filling in with the 3/4". By all means be sure you have the fines since that is what will help hold everything together.

Unfortunately the rock won't be setup hard enough to stay there when you plow snow in the winter. Don't ask me how I know (smile), but you can have a lot of rock out in the lawn if you aren't careful when plowing snow.

It sounds to me like you are on the right track. You won't be sorry that you put down the fabric.

 

[5030tinkerer]

I have the propex fabric down under my 800' drive and am glad that I did it. As was said, though, it's really easy to end up with a lawn full of rock in the spring. I haven't yet figured out how to prevent this or an easy way to clean it up. 50+ inches of snow this winter. Front blade skids set to leave over an inch on the ground. Bummer.

What makes it worse with the fabric, though, is that if you pull so much rock off the top to cause the fabric to show, it is super easy to snag it with a blade. There's woven and non-woven geo. Make sure you get the right stuff.

 

[forester2]

Culvert pipe traditionly comes in 20' lengths; connectors are availible to join sections together. 30' has been the ideal width for me. Diameter is another factor entirely- dependent on water flow from area upstream. I've had crusher run and plowing and blowing sent it into the woods. Gone to a topping over my bank run which a a neat mix of fines and small stone. Went 7 years without retopping my drive- I use a pto blower.

 

[Ken45101]

also, how is bank run different than the crusher run?

Bank run is round pebbles. Crushed limestone is angular edges that eventually pack together.

Unless something binds bank run together, it keeps moving out from under the traffic and never solidifies. Going up a hill, your wheels may spin, it could almost be like driving up a hillside paved with marbles

Crusher run is what comes out of the crusher, typically small crushed limestone and dust (fines). Here, "304" includes up to 1-1/2 rocks plus the smaller stuff. That packs together into an almost concrete surface. Crusher run doesn't have the larger 1-1/2" rock in it.

Crushed rock designations vary around the country. I live in Ohio, but close to Kentucky. The Kentucky designations are totally different than in Ohio. Greek would be easier to communicate with!

Ken

 

[lhfarm]

some good advice, thanks....

edit: yes, i'm going through the woods.....i'm going to try and balance keeping trees with knowing that very little sunlight will make the snow/ice buildup and be a bear to deal with.......the bad part is, the way the road runs, to catch the morning sun, i'd have to cut down all of the trees on the south side......

we'll see, i can always cut them down as the need arises, i'll keep too many for now and thin them later.....it's just hard to cut down 50+ year old trees...
thanks for the help!

My gravel drive is 1400' through the woods. Put in by my late FIL over 50 years ago. You can see pictures in this tread - http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/general-vintage-tractors/136673-little-cub-could.html. We get plenty of sunshine to help melt ice and snow. I've gotten good at going slow and using skid shoes to keep the gravel in place.

I learned just how good I've been when we had remodeling work done this winter. The contractor cleared the drive using my TC40DA and the backblade. He was in a hurry and just needed to be able to get a delivery up the hill. There are places where he cut the crown and took all the gravel off. I'm rebuilding the road now. Just wanted to point out that you can keep the gravel where it belongs.

 

[Flatheadyoungin]

thanks for the pics.....what direction does the driway point? does much sun hit it?

My gravel drive is 1400' through the woods. Put in by my late FIL over 50 years ago. You can see pictures in this tread - http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/general-vintage-tractors/136673-little-cub-could.html. We get plenty of sunshine to help melt ice and snow. I've gotten good at going slow and using skid shoes to keep the gravel in place.

I learned just how good I've been when we had remodeling work done this winter. The contractor cleared the drive using my TC40DA and the backblade. He was in a hurry and just needed to be able to get a delivery up the hill. There are places where he cut the crown and took all the gravel off. I'm rebuilding the road now. Just wanted to point out that you can keep the gravel where it belongs.