Diesel pickups?

[RobertN]

Mine is a 27', no slides. It is rated 6500lbs empty, 7500lbs max load.

I have seen 19', 21', and 24' that must be a lot lighter than mine.

In reality, I could tow with one of the newer 1/2 tons. I got my truck when I had a 10' cabover camper, which was way beyond a 1/2 ton ability.

I think your weights are light for the 5th wheel RV. I am thinking 9,000 lb plus dry weight. Even the ultra light bumper pulls are 5,000 plus pounds.

 

[RobertN]

I like my diesel. But, it uses 3 gallons of oil at oil change time. "E" rated tires are a lot more than "C" rated tires. Brake pads and rotors are a lot more expensive. Fuel is more expensive than regular. Diesel option is around $7000+ nowadays. Ride quality is not as good as a 1/2 ton.

I really like the fact for everything I have done, I have not been under-trucked(My two previous trucks were 3/4, albeit gassers).

But everything in the 3/4 ton and up trucks is more expensive. And diesel more expensive than gas for initial purchase and ongoing maintenance.

When I made it home, I declared to my wife that I'd be getting a 3/4 ton diesel. In reality, it's unnecessary, I realize. But it's annoying hearing rational thought that opposes an impulse decision.

 

[bdeboer]

Mine is a 27', no slides. It is rated 6500lbs empty, 7500lbs max load.

I have seen 19', 21', and 24' that must be a lot lighter than mine.

In reality, I could tow with one of the newer 1/2 tons. I got my truck when I had a 10' cabover camper, which was way beyond a 1/2 ton ability.

I guessed on the weight knowing it was higher than the 3-4,000 lbs the OP originally posted. If it was just the equipment trailer at 5,000 lbs for local towing, I would be in the 1/2 ton camp also. I used to pull about a 7500 lb rv with a properly equipped 1/2 ton, and it did the job especially in Ohio. I did put load range C tires and stiffer shocks on the 1/2 Ton. The 3/4 ton diesel pulls the current RV to the coast comfortably.

 

[Rob-D]

Thanks for the replies guys.

First, I don't have an RV yet, I'm still learning about them so forgive my ignorance if they don't run light ones on a fifth wheel.

My thinking right now is that I'll look at the RV from two sides. One, get an RV with a truck and two, get a complete one with the engine. I'm thinking about a B or C unit.

The things I like about the diesel are fuel economy and longevity. I was thinking of spending around 20k for the diesel truck and around 15 or so for the RV. Am I totally in the dark here?

It's just the two of us and I was hoping to save on fuel going light on the RV. Also I don't really want to be towing a 40 foot RV around.

Right now I have an old F150 with 180k miles on it (2WD, auto).

Thanks,
Rob

 

[Highbeam]

5th wheel pretty much guarantees a 3/4 ton or bigger. Remember that 5th wheels are supposed to put 20% of their weight onto the truck bed so a 5000# trailer will set 1000# of weight in the bed. You will find that not many trucks are up to that much payload. For instance, a typical diesel F250 from the last decade with crew cab and 4x4 weighs 7500 lbs. The GVWR is 8800 so you can legally load 1300# into the bed before you exceed your ratings.

My last truck was a 1998 half ton chevy that I really liked. Empty weight was 5800 and GVWR was 6200 so I could only load 400 lbs into the bed. Two fat chicks.

Current truck is a 2000 F350 diesel. 7500# empty and 9900# GVWR so I can haul 2400# of cargo and a pretty decent sized 5th wheel.

I don't really think that the diesel engine is all that much better than a good gas engine. It's noisy, and power is not as snappy as the gas. Better mpg and torque but not so much better to make up for the costs or humongous expense of engine work.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I have owned 4 diesels, 3 Fords and 1 GM. Had good luck with the Fords, not so much with the GM. As said before if you do not need one I would pass. They are expensive to own and operate. You will not get much for $20,000 in a diesel truck. A good 5 year old diesel will run you $30,000.

As for the 5th Wheel I have never seen one under 10,000# and most are in the 14,000# to 18,000# weight class. With RV's the older the heavier, they get lighter every year.

My advise is with your budget get a 3 year old 1/2 ton of any brand with the big V8, towing package, and 4x4. Then get yourself a good 7,000# bumper pull camper. This will keep you in the $$$ you want.

Chris

 

[1950T]

my vote would be for a 12v cummins. gen2 94-97. gen1's had a VE rotary injection pump and were a bit on the weak side. while the gen2's have that beastie of a p7100 better know simply as a Ppump. my 96 has 421k and going strong. its on its second clutch and ive done some mods but in stock form it would pull anything i had on the trailer.

 

[CCOUGHRAN1]

This is a copy of one of my posts on another forum I belong to. It applies here to some degree, maybe you can use some of the information to help with your decision.

These are just my observations and opinions, and we all know what they say about opinions!

I think 4x4 on a truck that size is a waste of money.

I have the opposite opinion about 4x4 on a 1 ton diesel. My 2 wheel drive diesels would get stuck on wet grass. Too much weight in the front end, and not enough in the rear for traction.

I will list the trucks I have had along with the good bad and ugly, and some photos to show how I work my trucks.

Dodge

2002 2500 4x4 diesel 6 spd - It is currently sitting outside my office with a 32' tandem dual hooked to it, and a dozer and 4 seater mule sitting on top of it. The truck has just under 200k, I have replaced the injector pump and lift pump, and clutch, and I grenaded the transmission

2003 3500 4x4 diesel 6 spd - I have had several problems with this truck, some self inflicted such as the turbo, injectors, and clutch (too big of a performance chip for the stock components)

Lets see a 2 wheel drive pull this load out of the muddy hay lot with 20 rolls of hay.

Pulled this 42' long trailer all over the US, averaged about 8 MPG

Ford

1995 Ford f350 4x4 7.3 diesel 5 spd - This truck was OK for pulling, better than my nonturbo 7.3, but not as strong as the dodge. If I would have sold this truck at 200k instead of 240k I would have been money ahead. I replaced the injectors, CPS, transmission, Clutch, front hubs, etc.
4x4 does not always save you, but I would rather have it than not. Let's see a 2wd diesel make this drive

1997 Ford F350 4x4 7.3 diesel auto - Sold it with 130k, It was a nice truck, but it always felt like it was laboring to pull a load. Largest load I ever pulled with it was a 34' Airstream Limited.

2002 Ford F350 4x4 dually 7.3 auto - same story as the 1997 ford, except that when I blew the turbo on the 2003 dodge, I used it to haul the dodge back home. You should have heard all the trash talking on the CB that day.

2003 Ford F550 4x2 6.0 6spd - This truck is used daily hauling a 40 flatbed, none of the problems I have heard about with the 6.0. It has had the a/c and transmission replaced.

2004 Ford F550 4x2 6.0 6spd - same story as the 2003, except that it feels like it has more power down low than the 2003. No head gasket issues with either one.

(2) 2008 Ford F550 4x2 6.4l 6 spd - Both of the are run daily hauling either a 40 gooseneck, or a 45' gooseneck. They have been back to the dealer on several occasions to be reflashed. No major components replaced YET!

Chevy

2003 Chevy 3500 4x2 Duramax/ Allison - plenty of pulling power, but horrible fuel economy. Sure like the tow haul mode in the truck.

2004 Chevy 3500 4x4 D/A - same as above

2005 Chevy 3500 4x4 D/A - same as above - the chevy's are nice for hauling light loads, and they ride great, really like the interiors too.
Here is a load of 300 square bales on the chevy,

With all that said. I still own the old goats. Got rid of the Chevy's, and the older Fords. The Chevy's just drank too much fuel, and the Fords did not make the power that I needed.

If I was going to buy a truck today, I would search high and low for a clean, low mileage 1998 Dodge 5.9l 12 valve 4x4 quad cab. Great mileage, and none of the emissions crap. The new diesels don't have the mileage gain anymore that used to make them better than a gasser. If you need a newer vehicle, go with a gasser over the diesel.

 

[1950T]

ive not seen a 2wd 3/4 or ton gas or diesel that was worth a darn. most will get stuck on a flat yard it the grass is wet

 

[Raspy]

It's foolish to plan on using a 1/2 ton at or near it's limit, instead of a 3/4 ton diesel with plenty of extra ability!

The diesel tows or moves heavy loads much better, gets far better mileage when working, the brakes are much bigger, the suspension is stiffer and the tires are far stronger. All important feature on a working truck. If you want a soft riding grocery getter with cheap tires, the 1/2 ton might fit the bill.

Which would you trust more to carry your family, while loaded with gear, on a long road trip in the mountains or across the hot desert?

Compare storing diesel for long periods compared to gas. Know you can use diesel to heat your home, run your tractor and fuel your truck. Diesel is far safer if there is a leak under the hood or a tank rupture in an accident, etc.

If you proceed on a simple cost/payback ratio and plan on selling the truck in a couple of years, you are still not factoring in the safety features. But costs are important too. For me, I want the extra economy and long life that the diesel offers. Spend more up front and get the peace of mind and benefits of a good Cummins. I've had far too many ten MPG trucks that became a nuisance to use. When you look at that window sticker estimated mileage of a gasser I can assure you that is not while towing or with a heavy camper aboard.

Get a Cummins, put up with a few quirks, learn the tricks to make them even better and know you've done the best you can do. The best ones are the 2nd gen twelve valve models for ultimate reliability or the third gens from 2003 to 2007. My personal favorite is the '04 HO model with 305 HP built from August 2003 to Dec 31, 2003. Excellent mileage, no catalytic converter and easily programmed up another 90 HP. Know what you are getting into if you start considering a '98 through 2002 24 valve, or a 6.7.

Just don't get an experimental engine that requires you to be the tester. These come from the blue oval brand and really should be avoided.