Trailer Questions For Kubota BX1500

[Robert_Parent]

Have been looking to purchase a trailer for a couple months and thought maybe someone here could help clear the fog. I have a Honda Ridgeline and a Kubota BX1500 (with loader, 10.5 ft length, 1600 pounds).

What I have been mostly looking at are tandem axle, landscape type trailers. I know lots of folks say bigger is better but where does one draw the line? A few items of confusion:

Length, 12 ft or 14 ft? What is really needed to balance the load without lots of messing around?
Would 5000# GVWR be sufficient (two 3500 lb axles)?
Are drop axles a good option?
Is it best to have electric brakes on both axles.?
For a ramp 5 ft, stand up knees looks like a good choice.

Here is link to a local trailer of interest:

Tandem Axle Utility Trailer, Johnson Trailer, Colfax Wisconsin

Thanks for your comments,
Robert

 

[rjkobbeman]

A quicky search on the net, I found the GCWR of the Honda Rigeline to be 10,085 lbs. Honda says the max you can tow is 5,000 lbs. The GVWR is 6050. The curb weight is like 4,500 lbs.

That being said, you want your trailer and all of its cargo to be 5,000 lbs or less. I recommend getting a trailer that is "just right" for your tractor and not too much on the "bigger is better" idea... because a bigger trailer will weight more and get you close or over the GCWR.

Any idea what the trailers weight?

Also, do you have an implement (like a bush hog) that you would want to transport?

The longer the trailer, the more you can "play" with adjusting the load for a proper tongue weight. If you buy a trailer the exact length as your tractor and FEL, you have two choices to load: forwards or backwards. Hopefully one of those two ways (probably forwards) puts the right tongue weight on your truck. Bigger trucks can handle more tongue weight... so more tongue weight than desired may not be a big deal for some... but your truck, you probably don't want to go over by too much. Do you know the GAWR of your rear axle? Based on the curb weight and GVWR numbers, it looks like 1,000 lbs is the most you can put in your truck. That is fuel, driver, passengers and cargo. I would expect the "cargo" amount could be tongue weight as long as your hitch can handle it.

Those trailers definitely have the wheels to the rear. From those pics I can't tell if they are at the "correct" offset of if they are back farther. The farther back the trailer wheels are, the more tongue weight you will have.

Lots of things to think about.

 

[BruceWard]

Why not use some 4 wheeler ramps and put it in the bed

If the BX1500 is all you are going to move why not buy a mesh 5x10 trailer. That will keep the load down on your Ridgeline. Something like this would keep the total load down to less than 2,000 pounds Carry-On Trailer Mesh Floor Trailer, 1600 lb. Capacity - 0190326 | Tractor Supply Company .

 

[Will_C]

I would buy a tandem 16' trailer. Most are rated for 7000lbs., although you may find a 5000lb unit. The 5k trailer would be sufficient. The extra length would come in handy for many other uses, and would allow you to trailer your tractor with an implement.

I would recommend brakes on both axles-that is the law in many states of you go over 3000lbs.

What's your budget? You sound like a good candidate for an aluminum trailer. I have an 18' 7k tandem alumunum trailer that weighs 1200lbs empty. There are pricier.

Will

 

[zmansmac]

I finished building a trailer this spring for my B7500 which is not too much bigger than your BX. I also struggled with deciding on how big to make the trailer although I really wanted to keep it smaller in size than my buddy's 7 1/2 x 16 footer that I previously borrowed. I have a FEL, MMM and back blade. I decided to size the trailer for the tractor and FEL figuring that I could set the back blade blade down between the bucket and front of the tractor. So I went with a 6 x 12 foot trailer. I'm happy with the way it turned out. But then I got a good deal on a used Box Blade and my trailering now has a new issue as you can see in the picture with the BB hanging off. I could load the BB in the bed of the pickup but would really rather leave it attached to the tractor. So I'll be exploring ideas like some removable stock on an angle above my storage box so the FEL bucket actually rests (and gets strapped down) in front of the trailer. If I had to do all over again I would have gone 14 feet long and not had this issue. So while I see your point about keeping the trailer size down also look to the future if you think you ever may acquire any other implements.

 

[Diamondpilot]

The main issue with your setup is getting the right amount of tongue weight. To do this you need a trailer that will allow you enough room to shift the weight around. Looking at your trailer specs you listed I would guess, based on what my trailer weighs, that the 16' version is in the 1400# range. Its only $10 more than the 14' version so that is a no brainier to me.

Get the 16' with ramps and you will be fine. Just make sure you truck has a brake controller, the trailer has brakes, and you have a tranny cooler on your truck. If not get one, they are under $50 and can save you $2500 in a hurry.

Chris

 

[BrianR]

I pull my BX2200 on a 16' 72" wide tandem axle landscape trailer with Aluminum ramps (6' long), electric brakes on 1 axle, wood floor, and the trailer and ramps empty weigh in at 1600lbs. The length makes it easy to adjust tongue weight. Where I place the tractor depends on whether the loader is on it, and whether I have a 3 point attachment (plow, disc, sprayer, planter, etc) on it as well.

Drive up on the trailer and park where the trailer tongue starts to squat the Ridgeline at the rear a couple of inches, and that should be just right!

 

[timswi]

Don't take this the wrong way, but you will probably want to go easy on the trailer weight with a Ridgeline. Nice vehice, but not a full-size pickup. I have no doubt that you can easily pull a BX. If you have the budget, an aluminum trailer would be perfect in your case.

As Chris said, a brake controller is absolute...A tranny cooler is good insurance.

 

[Baucom]

I think you will be just fine with a regular, easy to find, relatively cheap, 16' 7K landscape or utility trailer. My 16' Hurst weighs 2000# and is on the heavy end of the spectrum for 7K landscape trailers. If your trailer is no more than 2000# & your BX + FEL is 1600#, then that still leaves 1400# of excess towing capacity on your Ridgeline for an attachment or 2. Make sure you get a brake controller and that your trailer brakes are working, and you'll be fine with that load behind your Ridgeline. Take DP's advice regarding getting your tongue wt. right and making sure you have a transmission cooler.

I know trailer wt. is a bit of a concern, but I suggest the 7K 16' landscape/utility trailer because, in general, it is the most bang for your buck in a new trailer. A 12' really limits your ability to balance the load, and a 14' isn't much cheaper or lighter than a similarly constructed 16'. These trailers are plentiful on dealer lots, and any decently constructed make/model will be up to the task of hauling your BX--it's not much more wt. than a large GT, just a larger footprint.

 

[timswi]

I agree that there is no real benfit of going with a 14ft over a 16 ft. I borrowed my neighbors 14 footer (long story) and it was difficult to balance the load givin the length. 16 ft would have made things much easier.

A landscape trailer would work well. I just would be concerned about the steel trailer weight. My wife's H3 will pull a similar amount of weight, but I think I'd want to hold the trailer weight down as much as possible if this were my tow vehicle. I can't control the weight of the tractor, but I can buy the weight of the trailer. If I was pulling my RTV or BX with the H3...I'd go aluminum. In fact I'm saving up for an aluminum 16 ft car hauler now. Tired of board replacement and fixing rust on the steel ones...Just me though.