Wiring saw for 240V

[czechsonofagun]

I decided to replace the original motor in the new for me Walker/Turner table saw. The original is only 1HP and 110V - I would like to go with at least 3HP and wire it for 240V.

The saw will be pretty much in the same spot, but I would like to be able to move it if necessary - it means wall plug and a cord and a switch.

I checked the local HD and must say I am confused. First of all, they have plugs for range and dryer and such - but which one would you use for a saw? I need 240V, not 110 - means three wires are enough, I don't have to bring the neutral over, but which plug and outlet to use?

Please, advice, how do you wire your 240 tools in your shop?

Thanks

 

[Egon]

Attached image for 220 volt configuration. The configuration may also depend on amps required?

 

[czechsonofagun]

Thank you, from what I could find, most people use L6-20R.

 

[LD1]

For the air-compressor I used what I think is just the regular 6-20 plug and receptical. It is the one that looks almost like a 110v plug, except one of the flats is turned sideways, instead of them both being parallel. Those are good to 20A. And with a 3HP motor (which sounds like overkill) 20A should be fine.

For the welder I use the range/dryer style 50A plug

 

[JimRB]

Have you tried to use the existing motor? At the old woodworking website they claim the old Delta Unisaws with the low horsepower bullet motors have a lot more power than you would think for the rating. Maybe now they inflate the power rating of some motors.

 

[PILOON]

If I'm not mistaken, older motors were rated using the 'run' amperage, while newer ones rate using the start amps.
Perhaps that would explain the power differences.

But, yes, an older 1 hp will sure outperform a new import type 1 hp.

 

[Egon]

Kinda slow but look at the receptacle for 220V on a generator.

 

[BobRip]

Will the saw arbor be able to handle the extra power and torque. If so this sounds like a good idea. I may convert my saw.

 

[czechsonofagun]

Thanks guys!

I am confident the saw can handle the additional power, it is good old American cast iron.

The current motor runs nicely but slows to stop under anything thicker than 1" - I believe it is bit tired. I am going to keep the original setup in storage - have to make new pulley - to be able to go back if necessary.

I found a Grizzly switch that will work nicely. I don't want to go crazy with this setup, but my former saw was just a $100 contractor's POS - I am ready for some real power and precision:thumbsup:

 

[Mace Canute]

This should help.

That's a nice handy chart. Thanks!