Cab for snow throwing (GC2400)

[blackd]

Tolja so bout the pink jokes!

Anyway, before and after pics of painted top. I also added pics of the exterior (L/R/Rear) painted. The driver side has a mid cross member unpainted. I want to adjust its size to better fit the glass.

 

[Jaylegger]

Jay, flipping the lights is really easy, but you do need to fab a plate to mount them on. I used some very light weight metal. Drill three holes, two for the ROP mounts and one for the wiring. My first version, on one side I used two pieces of the light weight metal and I ran the wires through he seam between them. the other side had a single piece with the three holes. The two piece version metal fatigued due to vibration and cracked.

The secret is the lights must be reversed left to right, and use just enough metal to stabilize the lights. Too heavy and the lights take all the abuse and not the mounts. Yes, they still will take a hit now and then.

Thanks for the tips. I'm also thinking of keeping the lights in their normal positions but utilizing a break-away type bracket.

 

[blackd]

It's painted! Yes, it is removable. My guess it weighs ~125-150lbs.

Jay, I included pics of the rear lite mounts to show how simple (minded) I/they can be. They are needed to move them away from the ROP.

 

[Jaylegger]

It's painted! Yes, it is removable. My guess it weighs ~125-150lbs.

The great thing about building your own cab for these smaller tractors is keeping the weight down. OEM cabs weigh in the 350-500 pound range which can raise these smaller tractors center of gravity significantly which will increase roll-over risk plus the weight makes the cab difficult to remove, store, and re-install. My cab, like yours, is light made of aluminum, glass and lexan and comes in at about 135 pounds plus the simplicity of the entire thing enables an easy on/off in under 1/2 hour for each. I'm not sure I'd want to go bombing down the highway with the tractor on the back of trailer however without a tie-down over the roof and secured.

Jay, I included pics of the rear lite mounts to show how simple (minded) I/they can be. They are needed to move them away from the ROP.

Thanks for the pics, when I had the lights off last year eyeballing how to install them that's pretty much what I envisioned. Any wire re-soldering required when alternating the lights?

 

[blackd]

Jay, nope! Just disconnect them. Pull the wires out of the ROP. Reverse sides, pull wires through ROP and reconnect. Before doing that you could paint the mounts after fabbing them. Some did not, Y'ano.

 

[blackd]

Well, as far as I'm concerned it's finished. It may not be real pretty, but it will be a huge improvement to what it was like blowing before cab. There are several relatively little things I can and may do over these many months till next winter. I will put on lights, convert the manual chute rotation to hydraulic and may change the front window to auto glass for installation of a wiper. I might also put the excess 1/4 T111 on the large pillars to protect the plexi (hide my broken glass. )

I did make the whole driver side a door. It's been ona and off the tractor now, and I know that's possible.

The last pics, unless someone wants something special.

 

[Pixguy]

Looks great:thumbsup: Thanks for the photo update.

I wish I was warm like you!

BTW, the MF red looks very nice too:cool2:

 

[blackd]

BTW, the MF red looks very nice too:cool2:

You mean better than that hot pink, don'cha?

 

[Pixguy]

Who me????::cloud9:

LMAO

 

[irvingj]

Purty nice, pardner! (Wonder if I could build one that would be low enough to fit under my lean-to roof....)

Must admit, I was thinking about you and your cab a few days ago when I was blowing snow and tipping my head down to avoid the icy blast coming back at me! :laughing: