Mowing Looking for thoughts on free floating my mower

[katesaidan]

I have a Bush Hog finish mower for my rear PTO. I will raise my hand and say other than raising and lowering the thing I'm somewhat lost on the finer points of operation.

A friend of mine - who does know more about tractors than me - said there should be a way to "free float" the mower deck so as the tractor goes down an incline the deck doesn't go way up in the air and not mow the grass. I have lots of hills to be mowed and once I get into the old field part of my property it's REALLY uneven. I'd like to be able to mow my grass without it looking like I did the whole thing blind folded with a pair of scissors. :confused2:

 

[RoyJackson]

The upper attach point on the mower should have a "U" shaped part that pivots (red arrow in the attached picture). That's what allows the mower to free float.
After that, your top link of the 3PH should be lengthened enough to allow that free floating device to function.
I'm thinking you might be tightening up the 3PH top link to transport the mower raised. That's fine...
But when you get to where you want to mow, you need to lengthen it.

Also, make sure your rockshaft lever (lever that raises the 3PH) is set so the mower is completely down on it's four wheels.

I'm guessing you have a 60" or 72" mower. If your lawn has a lot of rises and depressions, the mower may be spanning those lower sections. I have that problem, but I'm going to live with it.

Of course, make sure your mower's blades are sharp. If you haven't sharpened them in the last season, perhaps you should.

 

[Glen Watkins]

Why not unhook the top link or I thought maybe a hydraulink left with the valve open would work in a situation like this for more flotation. Sometimes you have to go over areas a couple different ways too. I have the same hilly conditions and I try to keep my TL extended as much as possible but I hate the rattling and am looking for a better solution also.

HydrauLink - a self-contained air over hydraulic top link

 

[beenthere]

To fix mine, I removed the steel brace straps from the top link connection to the rear of the deck, and replaced with chain. Works like a dream for me. Top arm (true hyd) adjusted to allow the rear deck wheel to follow (float) with the ground.
Before the iMatch, I just replaced the top link with a short chain for free motion, but short enough to raise the deck for road travel (no banging )

 

[dex3361]

I have top and tilt on my 3PH and the top link is a float detent valve. When I am running the Mower I can set the rear wheel height with the lower arms then let the mower float.

 

[RoyJackson]

To fix mine, I removed the steel brace straps from the top link connection to the rear of the deck, and replaced with chain.

I believe she was asking about a finishing mower, Beenthere...

 

[beenthere]

The same will work for the finishing mower

The idea is to get rid of the stiff arm that restricts movement for allowing float.

 

[greg_g]

I consider all post-purchase modifications to mowers that involve chains, to be accidents just waiting to happen. My advice is to keep your mower in factory original configuration. They design'em that way for two pretty important reasons; efficiency and safety.

The U-shaped device that Roy pointed out is called a floating toplink bracket. If it's missing, get one. Because when you want to transport the mower, you tighten up your tractor toplink (screw it in) as far as it will go Assuming you've got the correct toplink, that should ideally point the open end of the U at the tractor. When you get to where you're going to mow, you lower the mower so all four wheels are on the ground. Then extend (unscrew) the tractor toplink until the open end of the U is pointed straight at the ground. When you're done mowing, adjust the tractor toplink so that the floating bracket is once again in the transport position.

//greg//

 

[teg]

When I use my Finishing mower, I do *not* hook up the top link. When I finish mow, I know that there are no stumps or rocks to hit so that I don't have to raise the deck. I just drag it behind my tractor... :2cents:

 

[RoyJackson]

When I use my Finishing mower, I do *not* hook up the top link. When I finish mow, I know that there are no stumps or rocks to hit so that I don't have to raise the deck. I just drag it behind my tractor... :2cents:

I disconnect the top link in one section due to very abrupt beginning of a slope. Otherwise, the mower cannot follow the change in the slope.
Personally, I prefer to keep it on (loosely as Greg and I described) for all other mowing.
I have to disagree with Beenthere on using just a chain, but if it works for him (and it has for years...those pictures aren't recent)...great. First time that cutter jumps due to hitting a stump (that'll soil your skivies), he might use a solid link. But he's not the only guy I've read here and seen in real life using a chain top link.