Fencing brace-post pulling up during install ... Suggestions?

[boggen]

when ya tied the end of the wire mesh on, you may have done so at an angle to the post.

((other words it would be like pulling out a tree roots *see below post*))
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/129506-tree-puller-hard-get-trees.html

make sure the wire / staples holding the end of mesh, is straight and not at an angle.

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other things, if you used a post hole digger that was mounted to tractor. you may have angled the hole some, allowing post to work itself out.

post is not deep enough.

the side of mesh wire you are pulling from, is higher than the other end of mesh that is connected to the posts. it does not take much. if this is case try tighten the mesh half the distance. vs trying to tighten entire 200 feet. just a couple ratchet straps wrapped around a generic post, and hooked into the mesh. and give it a could cranks. that way, the entire 200 feet of mesh weight is not being pulled.

 

[beppington]

ive installed the same thing for years, and 1 use 2 wires (red and blue).

I also put all my wooden posts in concrete...this is the only way that they stay in the ground where i live. The post are all 36" in the ground.

In the very beginning I was using concrete around the brace section posts, but my dad didn't seem to think it was necessary. Maybe I should resume using it ...

 

[beppington]

when ya tied the end of the wire mesh on, you may have done so at an angle to the post.

We've been careful to keep the mesh's vertical wires plumb & parallel to the posts.

((other words it would be like pulling out a tree roots *see below post*))
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/129506-tree-puller-hard-get-trees.html

Are you saying my 8' long braced section isn't long enough? I have seen fences around that have two brace sections in a row.

make sure the wire / staples holding the end of mesh, is straight and not at an angle.

--------------------
other things, if you used a post hole digger that was mounted to tractor. you may have angled the hole some, allowing post to work itself out.

We had been using a 3PH auger, but I discovered I can dig them faster by hand, so all of these were hand dug with post-hole diggers, & they are vertical, as are the posts - used a level.

post is not deep enough.

Well, they are 3' deep. I don't think I can realistically go much deeper with them.

the side of mesh wire you are pulling from, is higher than the other end of mesh that is connected to the posts. it does not take much. if this is case try tighten the mesh half the distance. vs trying to tighten entire 200 feet. just a couple ratchet straps wrapped around a generic post, and hooked into the mesh. and give it a could cranks. that way, the entire 200 feet of mesh weight is not being pulled.

Maybe that would help, too ... just brace sections more often, & pulling from them instead of 200' at once.

 

[WilliamTO-35]

On a related subject, a few years ago I was trying to pull out of the ground two square cedar fence posts that were about 10 feet apart. They were rather stout, at about 10 inches on a side. The posts had been there since before I bought my property. The front loader on my tractor wouldn't budge the posts. I finally dug down deep enough to realize that the posts were actually cedar trees that had been squared off above ground, and the roots of the tree trunks were still in the ground. I gave up on pulling them out, and cut them off a couple of inches below ground .

 

[MMagis]

Concrete is not necessary, 3' is plenty deep, and braces every 200' is more than enough. You can rule those out. Just one more question, the post is pulling up after you release the tension from the come-a-longs, correct? It's the pressure from the fence pulling to the right? Just want to make certain I'm understanding.

 

[J_J]

I had that happen with railroad ties used as fence post, and did not understand it at that time.

The brace post should be braced against undisturbed ground. Could also add a 12 in long and 2 x 6 in wood bottom brace vertical in the hole for the brace to butt against.

If you pull at the pivot point that should not happen. The pivot on your setup is below the fence wire where wood meets wood.. You could temporarily install a brace that goes from the ground to the highest point on the post, and pull from the top of post.

 

[BeeferMan]

I think your problem is you are attaching the fence to the left post when pulling to the left. The fence should be fastened to right post when pulling the fence to the left.

When the the force of pulling the fence is on the right post (wanting to pull the top of that post to the left), that force is transferred to the left post via the horizontal brace, which then puts the blue wire in tension. The tension of the blue wire tries to move the bottom of the right post horizontally (which obviously won't happen) - fence is then braced.

 

[SandburRanch]

Un-even comealong tension. The top one is tighter. Use only one centered to solve the problem.

 

[boggen]

Un-even comealong tension. The top one is tighter. Use only one centered to solve the problem.

adding on to SandburRanch statement.

create a DIY mesh tightener....

two 2 x 6's one on each side of the wire mesh fence.

use bolts and nuts, with washers to bolt the 2x6's together sandwiching the wire mesh.

then wrap a chain or like, around center of the 2x6's and tighten the wire mesh.

the 2x6's, help keep the wire mesh from being distorted as you tighten things up.

it gets a little tiresome, dealing with about 8 plus bolts per each section. but *shrugs*

 

[beppington]

Concrete is not necessary, 3' is plenty deep, and braces every 200' is more than enough. You can rule those out. Just one more question, the post is pulling up after you release the tension from the come-a-longs, correct? It's the pressure from the fence pulling to the right? Just want to make certain I'm understanding.

No, it began coming up while tensioning. The first time we noticed it, it was about 4" up. We stopped, let off the come-along tension, and added the blue wire. After that, we started tensioning again, and that helped some, but it started coming up a little bit again, maybe 1/2", before we had the wire as tight as I thought it should be able to go, judging from our previously tensioned sections. This last problematic section of wire is pretty darn tight right now, but I thought it could use just a tad more tension to really get all the kinks out - but we were pretty sure that post would come further up/out, so we stopped.